Recommended options for tailored gray business suit

[Q Money]

I'm about to order a near-bespoke suit from mytailor.com in Irvine and would like some ideas as to what options to consider.

The suit is going to be a classic gray 3 piece, 3 button (I'm 5'6) and I'll be wearing this as my general purpose business attire as well as for court appearances, etc.

I have a few details already in mind such as peak lapels, but not too wide a lapel as I'm a relatively slightly fellow. What other options should I consider appropriate for my build and the purposes of the suit?

1. Weight of the fabric: should I avoid the 8 oz stuff and try to stay in the 11 oz. range?
2. The "action back" styles and options: is this even appropriate for a business suit?
3. What sort of pockets are classy and appropriate?
4. Pleats: Good for a short guy like me or bad? Most of my pants recently have been flat front.

Please throw out your suggestions! Although this will be my first of many custom suits, I do intend this one to be my regular wear suit.

 

[Tone Loki]

1) Weight wise - as you're in Southern California, I would go as light as you can whilst still retaining the 'feel' or 'hang' of flannel.. Scabal make some light (8 oz) brushed twills in wool/cotton that would fit the bill.. although will be pricey.

2) If wearing a three piece, the waistcoat (sorry, vest) will cover a high back, so go for it - just make sure you get brace buttons for those boxcloth Albert Thurston braces (sorry suspenders). Putting the brace buttons on the inside is considered smarter these days.

3) Straight cut besom flap packets that you can tuck in if necessary are considered the smartest, with patch pockets (with or without a button) are considered the most casual. It all really depends on the silhouette/cut - patch pockets add a lot of bulk to your middle. I would go for a second higher small ticket pocket on the left side though.

4) With a high cut trouser (more in keeping with the Fedora Lounge style) pleats keep the trouser hanging right. Remember, the front of the vest will sit over the waistband of the trouser anyway...

This is just my opinion, by the way... Good luck!

 

[Bugsy]

I'm about to order a near-bespoke suit from mytailor.com in Irvine and would like some ideas as to what options to consider.

The suit is going to be a classic gray 3 piece, 3 button (I'm 5'6) and I'll be wearing this as my general purpose business attire as well as for court appearances, etc.

I have a few details already in mind such as peak lapels, but not too wide a lapel as I'm a relatively slightly fellow. What other options should I consider appropriate for my build and the purposes of the suit?

1. Weight of the fabric: should I avoid the 8 oz stuff and try to stay in the 11 oz. range?
2. The "action back" styles and options: is this even appropriate for a business suit?
3. What sort of pockets are classy and appropriate?
4. Pleats: Good for a short guy like me or bad? Most of my pants recently have been flat front.

Please throw out your suggestions! Although this will be my first of many custom suits, I do intend this one to be my regular wear suit.

I have three suits from mytailor.com. Every one is a gem. I suggest you ask Joe, whom I assume will be the one measuring you, to guide you. His knowledge of fabrics and styles is encyclopedic.

 

[Q Money]

Do you litigate jury trials? Some attorneys throw out the rule book for tactical purposes, wearing cowboy boots, wearing deliberately cheap or ill-fitting suits, and the like, to win sympathy with jurors. Is looking too fashionable or corporate going to be a problem for you in court?

An approach I've seen taken many times (much to my shock and dismay) by a few of my contemporaries, but one I can not force myself to embrace. I guess I'll just have to dazzle the jury with my dashing ensemble!

 

[Q Money]

1) Weight wise - as you're in Southern California, I would go as light as you can whilst still retaining the 'feel' or 'hang' of flannel.. Scabal make some light (8 oz) brushed twills in wool/cotton that would fit the bill.. although will be pricey.

2) If wearing a three piece, the waistcoat (sorry, vest) will cover a high back, so go for it - just make sure you get brace buttons for those boxcloth Albert Thurston braces (sorry suspenders). Putting the brace buttons on the inside is considered smarter these days.

3) Straight cut besom flap packets that you can tuck in if necessary are considered the smartest, with patch pockets (with or without a button) are considered the most casual. It all really depends on the silhouette/cut - patch pockets add a lot of bulk to your middle. I would go for a second higher small ticket pocket on the left side though.

4) With a high cut trouser (more in keeping with the Fedora Lounge style) pleats keep the trouser hanging right. Remember, the front of the vest will sit over the waistband of the trouser anyway...

This is just my opinion, by the way... Good luck!

Great tips on the pockets, I will definitely raise these points with Joe. Yeah, the SoCal summers do have me worried as to how hot this suit is going to be at 10oz or higher. Do you think an 8 oz would be durable enough (meaning it'll last at least 5 years of twice weekly wear)?

 

[Tone Loki]

Your tailor will be able to answer more honestly.. I think a brushed cotton/mohair in 9 or 10 oz will be cool and hard wearing... Maybe get two pairs of pants to offset the inevitable extra wear on them...

 

[Tomasso]

Do you think an 8 oz would be durable enough (meaning it'll last at least 5 years of twice weekly wear)?

Durability aside, you might consider adding another suit or two to your wardrobe if only to break up the monotony.