Project A-2

[fishmeok]

So I've been working on my project Avirex. I made and sewed on new pockets and my knits from G&B arrived today (I'm replacing the knits and zipper). I re-painted the jacket with Createx airbrush paint to resemble a depot re-spray job. I think it's coming along well..
Cheers
Mark

Original:

Jacket with new pockets

Halfway painted:

Finished. If I were to do this again I'd use brown leather for the pockets- it's too hard to match to the rest of the jacket.

 

[Mike K.]

Wow! Looking great so far. Can't wait to see the finished product.

 

[MrBern]

Wow , thats a lot of work!
Good job.
What are your plans for the zipper refit?

 

[fishmeok]

Hi
Zipper and knits are from G&B- the original on the jacket was pretty flimsy and broken anyway-
Cheers
Mark

 

[fishmeok]

Next step- I installed the waist and cuffs and thought I was doing pretty well, so I moved on to the zipper. I somehow managed to get the bottom ends almost and inch off from each other and the lining is off as well. So now I have to take it back apart and re-do the zipper.
I think I'm going to give it a gloss coat too-looks a little flat to me.
Cheers
Mark

Big Visual Progress:-but note how far the bottom of the left windflap sticks below the right. The odd thing is that the pockets and collar line up, but not the bottom of the windflap.

But underneath the windflap:

 

[Ugarte]

Okay, so the zipper was an "oops!" first time around. The rest of it looks spectacular.

Tell me, did you find a resource on the web about replacing the cuffs? If not, could you whip up a quick tutorial? I have an old G-1 that isn't worth spending the money on, but if I could do it myself, it would make a terrific jacket to hand down to my son.

What do you say?

BTW, did I mention your A-2 is looking really good?

Mark
.

 

[fishmeok]

The VLJ is down right now, but there used to be a good cuff replacement tutorial in the "how to" section. It's not hard to do at all- I did my first set by hand just to figure it out. If the VLJ tuorial is gone I will make something up, I still have three more jackets that need knit and cuff replacement.
Cheers
Mark

 

[Fletch]

What looks good - looks real good! Way to go Fish.

Why do you suppose the zipper doesn't reach on one side? It looks as tho you might have had it slightly wavy when you sewed it down - but I dunno.

And how did the windflaps get off so? Were they always that way? Or did you do that line of stitching in pic #4 yourself - the one that picks up where the band joins the waist, and keeps going across the flap?

 

[Alan Eardley]

Good stuff. It's beginning to look like an Aero. You're certainly picking it up quickly. Isn't this fun? Sometime ago I posted a few pictures (against my better nature) of a B-3 repro I made. I don't know if they are still there. Steve Sellers on VLJ was restoring a B-3 at the same time and it was great to help each other. Ken Calder showed me a few tricks, too.

The problem with sewing zips into a leather jacket is that you can't pin it in place or put much pressure on the machine foot. I use the sort of clamps (Bulldog or crocodile grips) that they used to use in drawing offices. You have to maintain a very even feed and pressure.

Did you sew it with the zip closed or parted?

Alan

 

[Ugarte]

The VLJ is down right now, but there used to be a good cuff replacement tutorial in the "how to" section. It's not hard to do at all- I did my first set by hand just to figure it out. If the VLJ tuorial is gone I will make something up, I still have three more jackets that need knit and cuff replacement.
Cheers
Mark

The VLJ Froum v3.0 is up at http://cornellsurgery.com/phpBB3/index.php but the thread about cuff replacement evidently went down with v2.0. I've only been a member there for a couple of days, so I never got to see the old information.

I figure a tutorial would take some effort on your part, but I'd really appreciate the tip.

Mark
.

 

[fishmeok]

What looks good - looks real good! Way to go Fish.

Why do you suppose the zipper doesn't reach on one side? It looks as tho you might have had it slightly wavy when you sewed it down - but I dunno.

And how did the windflaps get off so? Were they always that way? Or did you do that line of stitching in pic #4 yourself - the one that picks up where the band joins the waist, and keeps going across the flap?

I figured out the zipper issue last night- I originally set the zipper in place from the bottom,working up with the zipper closed and the windflap even. Turns out the windflaps are not the same length (by over an inch!) so when I split the zipper and tacked it in the sides were way off. Last night I pulled the right side off and split the difference. Just the way the jacket was made I guess and not something I've seen in higher quality jackets. The zipper wavyness is just my lack of experience. In that corner of the A-2 you have the lining, waistband,windflap back, separate windflap front, separate bottom windflap front, and zipper all coming together and they have to be sewn in a certain order to make everything fit right. In the process of trying to get it all together (AND fight with my sewing machine) the zipper moved on me. Plus I'm trying to match the existing holes in the leather which makes it harder to keep everything aligned. I was getting pretty damn irritated on Tuesday...
Cheers
Mark

 

[fishmeok]

Good stuff. It's beginning to look like an Aero. You're certainly picking it up quickly. Isn't this fun? Sometime ago I posted a few pictures (against my better nature) of a B-3 repro I made. I don't know if they are still there. Steve Sellers on VLJ was restoring a B-3 at the same time and it was great to help each other. Ken Calder showed me a few tricks, too.

The problem with sewing zips into a leather jacket is that you can't pin it in place or put much pressure on the machine foot. I use the sort of clamps (Bulldog or crocodile grips) that they used to use in drawing offices. You have to maintain a very even feed and pressure.

Did you sew it with the zip closed or parted?

Alan

Thanks- this is something I've wanted to try ever since I talked to John Chapman...
Where were the pics of the B-3 you made? I tried to find them but had no luck. If I ever get any good at this a B-6 is on my must do list.

I'm having the most trouble keeping even pressure when going from a thick to thin layer of maetial- lots of skipped stiches and do-overs. A lot of that is the machine I think, just not made for this in the long run...
Cheers
Mark

 

[fishmeok]

The VLJ Froum v3.0 is up at [
I figure a tutorial would take some effort on your part, but I'd really appreciate the tip.

Mark
.

Hi
I think the current version of the VLJ is down too- I haven't been able to post a reply for a couple days and there have been no new messages since early Wednesday...

I'll go through my pics and figure something out- was thinking about taking some in-depth shots as I worked, but then I got a little too into it and didn't want to stop (this would be Tuesday, cold here in Minnesota and I spent the day working on my jacket and wtching the "Monk " marathon...)
Cheers
Mark

 

[Fletch]

The problem with sewing zips into a leather jacket is that you can't pin it in place or put much pressure on the machine foot.

I know you can't pin it in because pin holes won't come out of leather. But explain the pressure issue further please...

I use the sort of clamps (Bulldog or crocodile grips) that they used to use in drawing offices.

Hint to US readers: office stores here call them bulldog clips, not grips. they look like this.

Look for these
They are NOT the typical black flip-on binder clips, found in every office, that look like this. They don't grip as strongly and will only get in the way.

DO NOT bother with these
Over here crocodile clips (again, not grips) describe a connector used for electric wiring. It looks like this.

or these either

You're clearly a craftsman of the old school Alan - helpful, but terse, giving just enough info to let the novice go awry and learn from his mistakes. I dunno, maybe we all need that initiation. If so, I apologize for asking smartarse questions.

 

[Ugarte]

Hi
I think the current version of the VLJ is down too- I haven't been able to post a reply for a couple days and there have been no new messages since early Wednesday...

I'll go through my pics and figure something out- was thinking about taking some in-depth shots as I worked, but then I got a little too into it and didn't want to stop (this would be Tuesday, cold here in Minnesota and I spent the day working on my jacket and wtching the "Monk " marathon...)
Cheers
Mark

You may be right about the VLJ forum. I've yet to make a first post and I figured traffic was slow because of the holidays.

At any rate, don't let me push you on this. I've got all the time in the world to fix my jacket and you've got your priorities. It just seems to me that all of us could benefit from your experience should you find a way to share it at some point.

Keep up the good work. You rock!

Mark

 

[James Miller]

Good Work!

I have been checking some of your post's and your work Looks good. I have been doing the same. I Have taken a few jackets apart Just learn how to re-sew them back.

I have taken a few collars apart and repaired them I have done a few Knit wool sleeves and waist bands. I have been using those clips as well because I had trouble holding the cuffs to the leather to keep them from moving when sewing them on. I have a little ''no make that alot '' of trouble re doing the linings were no stiching can be found. Good thing I know some one that helps me with the linings. Making the linings is not hard but installing them IS A LITTLE TRICKY. But I have plenty of jackets to work on and hone my craft.

Keep writing because it help me to know and understand various methods for making repairs.

 

[Alan Eardley]

James,

Good to see you persevering in this direction. I think we should start a movement towards more craft-based and less credit-card based jacket aquisition! You clearly have the right idea.

A part of the trick with linings is to work out in advance the 'closing' - the part of the lining that is the last to be sewn in. This is pretty much the only part where you have to work 'right side out'.

Alan

I have been checking some of your post's and your work Looks good. I have been doing the same. I Have taken a few jackets apart Just learn how to re-sew them back.

I have taken a few collars apart and repaired them I have done a few Knit wool sleeves and waist bands. I have been using those clips as well because I had trouble holding the cuffs to the leather to keep them from moving when sewing them on. I have a little ''no make that alot '' of trouble re doing the linings were no stiching can be found. Good thing I know some one that helps me with the linings. Making the linings is not hard but installing them IS A LITTLE TRICKY. But I have plenty of jackets to work on and hone my craft.

Keep writing because it help me to know and understand various methods for making repairs.

 

[Alan Eardley]

Fletch,

There is a way to pin repairs using the existing stitch holes, but you obviously can't use it with new parts, unless you can guarantee the holes lining up (which I can't, anyway!).

The pressure issue is the pressure the machine foot puts on the material. If you are sewing two or three layers of a light material together (say a plain or French seam in a shirt) you can use a certain degree of pressure and the foot will 'glide' over the surface without 'rumpling'. On a heavier material with more layers being sewn (installing a zip on the wind flap side of an A-2 being an example) with too much pressure the foot will push the top layers forward and 'waviness' with result. There is also the issue of putting 'skid marks' on fine leather.

I don't mean to be terse. I love to help people and pass on my experience (I teach in a University by day) but I have an aversion to appearing to 'show off'.

Alan

I know you can't pin it in because pin holes won't come out of leather. But explain the pressure issue further please...

Hint to US readers: office stores here call them bulldog clips, not grips. they look like this.

Look for these
They are NOT the typical black flip-on binder clips, found in every office, that look like this. They don't grip as strongly and will only get in the way.

DO NOT bother with these
Over here crocodile clips (again, not grips) describe a connector used for electric wiring. It looks like this.

or these either

You're clearly a craftsman of the old school Alan - helpful, but terse, giving just enough info to let the novice go awry and learn from his mistakes. I dunno, maybe we all need that initiation. If so, I apologize for asking smartarse questions.

 

[Alan Eardley]

The B-3 thread was here and on VLJ. I probably deleted the photos. I wasn't comfortable posting them in the first place, but someone persuaded me.

You'd be great with a proper industrial 'walking foot' machine, but they are a bit specialised.

Keep up the good work!

ALan

Thanks- this is something I've wanted to try ever since I talked to John Chapman...
Where were the pics of the B-3 you made? I tried to find them but had no luck. If I ever get any good at this a B-6 is on my must do list.

I'm having the most trouble keeping even pressure when going from a thick to thin layer of maetial- lots of skipped stiches and do-overs. A lot of that is the machine I think, just not made for this in the long run...
Cheers
Mark

 

[James Miller]

James,

Good to see you persevering in this direction. I think we should start a movement towards more craft-based and less credit-card based jacket aquisition! You clearly have the right idea.

A part of the trick with linings is to work out in advance the 'closing' - the part of the lining that is the last to be sewn in. This is pretty much the only part where you have to work 'right side out'.

Alan

I have been working on various jackets for almost a year now. I got an old PFAFF Sewing machine made in Germany. I works very well and it has a stich adjuster on it and it will do long stiches or short one It goes through leather like butter four piece's of leather at one time. I never tryed any thicker than that when I have installed epaulets on the shoulders I have had no problems or when I re sew a collar.

My problem comes in with the lining. I start with the sleeves then the neck line. The only thing left is were the Zipper connects , that's where I get in to trouble.