Please help me order my first Aero?

[dm8877]

Hi all,

Thanks for this forum. It's a wealth of info. I've been reading since last autumn and I have decided to order a 30s half belt in FQHH. I wonder if you'll offer me your help and advice?

I was afraid to take my measurements myself, so I had a tailor do it. They are:

Height: 6'2"
Chest expanded: 45"
Chest relaxed: 43"
Stomach (natural waist): 39"
Hip (at pelvic bones): 41"
Sleeve from center of back: 39"
Sleeve from end of shoulder: 29"
Bicep (around): 15"

I don't work out or anything beyond aerobic outdoor-type activities. Broad shoulders run in the family. I'm a size 46 off the rack for sport coats, but that's for the shoulders and I have the back taken in a lot. Holly at Aero has recommended a size 44 adding 1.5" to body and sleeves (final length would be 26" back and 27" sleeves). This sounds good to me, though I might want to add another inch to the sleeves to allow for shortening as they wrinkle up. I have long gorilla arms and I hate it when my sleeves are too short.

Aside from your thoughts on the fit, I would also like your opinion on the following:

1) Color - Brown or Cordovan? I was initially hoping for a dark brown, but if the half belt at this link is cordovan, I think that's beautiful too:

http://amatterofmillimeters.wordpress.com/2010/04/20/label-spotlight-aero-leather-clothing/

2) What color stitching should I ask for?
3) I'd like to get the heavyweight (Strome) tartan for the lining. Do any of you have this? Anything I should know?
4) Are the armholes pretty high on this style? Do I need to make any special request?
5) Thought I'd do one slash pocket over the heart and one inside pocket in the leather facing on the right side, for balance. Snap closure. Any reason I shouldn't?
6) Am I right in thinking Aero will alter/exchange the jacket if the fit comes out wrong? Naturally, I'd prefer it as right as can be on the first try.

Thanks is advance for any insight you can offer. Photos are welcome if you have the time/inclination.

 

[Sloan1874]

The jacket in the photo is brown FQHH, it's just that the leather is lovely deep mahogany colour, which can look almost red in pictures. The red tones become more pronounced with wear.

 

[pauleway]

Hi all,

Thanks for this forum. It's a wealth of info. I've been reading since last autumn and I have decided to order a 30s half belt in FQHH. I wonder if you'll offer me your help and advice?

I was afraid to take my measurements myself, so I had a tailor do it. They are:

Height: 6'2"
Chest expanded: 45"
Chest relaxed: 43"
Stomach (natural waist): 39"
Hip (at pelvic bones): 41"
Sleeve from center of back: 39"
Sleeve from end of shoulder: 29"
Bicep (around): 15"

I don't work out or anything beyond aerobic outdoor-type activities. Broad shoulders run in the family. I'm a size 46 off the rack for sport coats, but that's for the shoulders and I have the back taken in a lot. Holly at Aero has recommended a size 44 adding 1.5" to body and sleeves (final length would be 26" back and 27" sleeves). This sounds good to me, though I might want to add another inch to the sleeves to allow for shortening as they wrinkle up. I have long gorilla arms and I hate it when my sleeves are too short.

Aside from your thoughts on the fit, I would also like your opinion on the following:

1) Color - Brown or Cordovan? I was initially hoping for a dark brown, but if the half belt at this link is cordovan, I think that's beautiful too:

http://amatterofmillimeters.wordpress.com/2010/04/20/label-spotlight-aero-leather-clothing/

2) What color stitching should I ask for?
3) I'd like to get the heavyweight (Strome) tartan for the lining. Do any of you have this? Anything I should know?
4) Are the armholes pretty high on this style? Do I need to make any special request?
5) Thought I'd do one slash pocket over the heart and one inside pocket in the leather facing on the right side, for balance. Snap closure. Any reason I shouldn't?
6) Am I right in thinking Aero will alter/exchange the jacket if the fit comes out wrong? Naturally, I'd prefer it as right as can be on the first try.

Thanks is advance for any insight you can offer. Photos are welcome if you have the time/inclination.

There is an Aero 30's HB size 46 on e-Bay right now!

 

[too much coffee]

dm8877;

You might want to take another measurement for the "sleeve from end of shoulder." I know you're 6' 2" but 29" seems very long?

If you order the jacket with 27" - 28" sleeves, would they be long enough? Assuming your 29" measurement is correct.

coffee

 

[Fanch]

It sounds like you and I are roughly the same size, although you are slightly larger in the chest and waist. Based on what you have said, I would go along with Holly's recommendation but maybe consider adding 2" to body and sleeves. For me 26.5" back and 27.5" sleeves is optimal. Normally I wear a 16 X 37 shirt and also have "gorilla" arms and hate jackets with sleeves that are too short. If I were you, I would be extremely hesitant to order sleeves greater than 28". Regarding inside pockets, Aero discourages those on slim fit models like the 30's HB.

 

[Edward]

My Thirties Halfbelt was ought used from the ale page. Originally ordered by a fellow Lounger, it was customised with two smaller, horizontal zip breast pockets, and two inside 'gun pockets'. I use the inside pockets, but never the outer ones. If I was ordering a new 30s HB from scratch, I'd probably make do with just the standard. I don't mind the impresson of a wallet inside the jacket showing through, but using both the outer and inner pocket would create a bulk issue in such a neat fitting jacket. If the outer breast pocket was a good depth and width (as per my Bootlegger), I wouldn't so much feel the need for an inner pocket. Anything like my Bootlegger, though (based on the 50s HB pattern, I believe) and boxier, I'd definitely have at least one inner pocket.

 

[pauleway]

pauleway,

You might want to take another measurement for the "sleeve from end of shoulder." I know you're 6' 2" but 29" seems very long?

If you order the jacket with 27" - 28" sleeves, would they be long enough? Assuming your 29" measurement is correct.

coffee

I think you got the wrong guy. I was just mentioning to dm7788 that a jacket close to his size was on e-Bay. I'm more like a 42 short!!

 

[dm8877]

Thanks, everybody. I was puzzled by the sleeve recommendation too. I had the tailor measure twice because I also wear a 16.5/37 shirt, but he said 39/29.

Does Aero account for sleeve shortening caused by wrinkles/break-in? Or should I build in some fudge room on the premise it's easier to shorten sleeves than lengthen them?

Fanch - thanks again for your help. I'll measure the back and sleeve on my current jacket and see if I can determine the sweet spots.

 

[too much coffee]

I think you got the wrong guy. I was just mentioning to dm7788 that a jacket close to his size was on e-Bay. I'm more like a 42 short!![/QUO

pauleway...very sorry man! I am a dumb a$$. I'm just gonna shut up and go away!

coffee

 

[Edward]

Does Aero account for sleeve shortening caused by wrinkles/break-in? Or should I build in some fudge room on the premise it's easier to shorten sleeves than lengthen them?

Possibly.... plus, remember, this is an outerwear garment, so unlike a suitcoat you're going to want the sleeves to be a bit longer than a shirt sleeve, to cover your shirt rather than leave cuff exposed.

Personally, if in doubt and having talked it out with them, I'd be inclined to go with Aero's recommendation for the simple reason that if that should turn out to be too long, it's a whole lot easier to go back to them and ask for it to be changed if it was their call than if they produced something at your spec which turned out to be wrong. That said, I appreciate it's much easier for me to have a jacket changed than it is you.

 

[Sloan1874]

+1

 

[dm8877]

Actually, I'm worried going with Aero's recommendation might result in sleeves that are too short. I wouldn't mind so much if they had to cut them down, but I'm guessing making them longer after the fact would be very difficult.

Fanch - I don't mean to impose, but do you have a photo handy of you wearing your half belt? I seem to remember seeing one. I looked through your prior posts using the search function, but hell if I can find it.

 

[Rudie]

I can't see how Holly's recommendation would make any sense at all. You better ask her if she mixed up your figures. If your sleeve length from shoulder to cuff is really 29" you can't order 27". It just won't work. Likewise, if your full sleeve length is 39" you can't buy a jacket with a full sleeve length of 37". You'll end up with sleeves that are 2 inches too short from the beginning and they will get even shorter with wear.

 

[Sloan1874]

If I remember correctly, you need to allow for about 0.5" shrinkage as the sleeves wrinkle. Mine currently sit about 0.5" above the second knuckle on my thumb, that's after three months wear. I don't anticipate any further movement.
As far as your concerns go, I would communicate them to Holly, rather than just going 'whatever you say'. After all, nobody's infallible.

 

[Fanch]

Actually, I'm worried going with Aero's recommendation might result in sleeves that are too short. I wouldn't mind so much if they had to cut them down, but I'm guessing making them longer after the fact would be very difficult.

Fanch - I don't mean to impose, but do you have a photo handy of you wearing your half belt? I seem to remember seeing one. I looked through your prior posts using the search function, but hell if I can find it.

Here is a photo of my HWM that has 27.5" sleeves and 26.5" back.. It is a size 44 that is a somewhat loose fit that allows me to layer underneath. As I said earlier, I normally wear a 16 to 16.5 X 37 shirt. I am all arms and legs, and a somewhat short torso for 6'2" height. Keep in mind that Ken opines that many of us wear our sleeves too long, but the sleeves on my HWM 'feels' about perfect for my taste. Hope this helps.

 

[schitzo]

as another member of the 6,2 club i gotta say those must be some monkey long arms you got there! Wow. Any chance we could see a picture of you, or just your torso if you're shy? If you really do - and I'm not saying you don't - then it must mean you can't wear anything off the shelf; is that the case?

My advice is the sleeves won't shrink a full half inch. With creases they'll shrink closer to 0.25, perhaps a smidge more so if you do tack on the .5 as suggested you'll have it covered.

Also, you can bear in mind that sleeve requirements for different jackets may vary slightly. For example, on a trim fitting jacket like the one you have in mind I would ask for a little bit more on my sleeves than I would for say a roomier style - like the 50s halfbelt or hercules which are 'oversized' patterns.

My 1st choice would be brown FQHH, although, cordovan is my second favourite. Remember, sometimes cordovan and cherry FQHH bleeds but the brown never does. I like your balanced pocket concept, I would do the same thing myself

Basically you seem to have a pretty good handle on this (apart from your sleeve length..) but are you sure a 30s halfbelt is exactly the pattern you want? I'm not saying there's anything wrong with that.. or that you are mistaken in any way.. I just want you to fully appreciate precisely what it is before you order.

All the best
Schitz

 

[Fanch]

Well, I thought that Schitz and I held the record for long arms until dm8877. I can understand Schitz's questioning your choice of a 30s halfbelt as exactly the pattern you might want for your first jacket, particularly with the heavyweight (Strome) tartan lining, which might cause a horse to have a heat stroke if used as a horse blanket.:eeek: Does anyone else on the FL have experience with the Strome tartan lining, and if so, recommendation for a 30's slim fit lining?

 

[schitzo]

Well, I thought I held the record for long arms

I thought that was Rudie.

But anyhow isn't dm8877 from New york? In which case if it's a 30s halfbelt you seek surely Insurrection are the answer. That way there are:

No customs fees
Much faster delivery times
A more modern (in my opinion better) 30s halfbelt pattern
and most enticing of all, a fit guarantee!

If I was American I'd say that little package was hard to beat

 

[Fanch]

Yeah, I forgot about Rudie

 

[dm8877]

Thanks, Fanch. That's a very helpful photo. You say you're a 16.5/37 in shirts and so am I so I see what you mean about not going too long.

As far as the pattern, I basically want Sierra Charriba's jacket, maybe just a smidge longer than his. I considered the highwayman but I like the false belt on the back. My current coats are all boxy. I'd love to have something that actually fit.

Schitzo - Buying off the rack is a major pain for me. It can be done, but the planets have to align for the fit to be right. I have my dress shirts made these days. What you say about Insurrection makes sense. I'll look for into it, thanks.

The crazy warm strome lining would be a feature, especially as I figured I wouldn't have room to layer. I'm going to be wearing it all winter from New York to coastal Maine and while I enjoy winter, I don't dig being cold if that makes sense. Would you say the strome is warmer than the Harris tweed or the Alpaca?