New shearling jacket questions

[Goel]

Hey all, I'm looking for a daily driver winter jacket and finally settled on a shearling jacket. I'm looking for something fairly trim fitting that will allow decent mobility (as much as you can in shearling anyway) and I've narrowed down my options to a B6, ANJ4 or Iron Heart's new C3 jacket by Simmons Bilt. Where I live in the Midwest temps typically get into 10-20F at the lowest and I usually found my vintage pea coat and Iron Heart N1 deck jacket suitable as I just avoid going out if it's any colder.

I'm almost certainly going to need a custom jacket to meet my sizing requirements since I'm slim but tallish, as well as for inside pockets. The B6 is looking to be my favorite choice for the trim fit, midweight shearling, and bi-swing back. It's just missing a storm flap, which I imagine could be added easily enough on a custom order and would complement the design well IMO. My main issue would be the inside pockets. Since shearling has no lining it's not possible to add an interior pocket like a normal jacket, but I've seen Cockpit's shearling jackets with the pocket on the other side of the handwarmer. Has anyone tried those out and do they work well? Also, are the handwarmer pockets on a B6 typically lined with corduroy or anything warm? I really liked the alpaca lined pockets on the N1 jacket in the frigid cold. If the B6 lacks this I'm wondering if it would be possible to have something similar, for example using moleskin for the pocket bags as I've heard it's a tough but fairly warm fabric.

Iron Heart's C3 also looks interesting, it's an original design modified from the C3 vest. However it doesn't have bottom side belt adjusters to keep the cold from getting in through the bottom or a bi-swing back/gussets so I wonder about maneuverability....

 

[Carlos840]

Hi,

I don't think i would add a storm flap to a B6, i don't really know what it would achieve as you need serious wind speed to go through a zip. The only place where i find a wind flap is necessary is on a motorcycle, never seen it as necessary on a walking jacket. Since the B6 isn't a leather i would trust on a bike, i wouldn't worry about a wind flap.

No idea about interior pockets, you could possibly add one on the inner pocket bag but i don't see how useful that would be.

Regarding the regular handwarmer pockets, they really don't need to be lined in anything warm, they are inside a fleece jacket. When you put your hands inside of them you are basically putting them in the gap between your body and the fleece, it's already going to be super warm without a need for fancy lining. At least that's how it feels on my B3.

These rear pockets on the IH C3 are a deal killer for me, they look like a backwards facing fanny pack...

 

[ton312]

These rear pockets on the IH C3 are a deal killer for me, they look like a backwards facing fanny pack...

Agreed. The rest of the jacket looks good and I like the hem choice option but those rear pockets....why? That's just a frivolous design element that's unusable and unsightly.

 

[Sloan1874]

I'd go for a Longshoreman from Aero - it's bike-worthy, got pockets and sheepskin-lined. Ask them to put a muton collar on it and you're good to go: http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=27
The plus is that you'll be able to spec size as well.

 

[Bfd70]

I like the longshoreman suggestion.
It also seems from the IH site that the C3 is pretty customizable
Concerning pockets, particularly handwarmers, i am all in favor of them. I just sold a gorgeous jacket simply because it didn’t have them (a first for me, and i learned that apparently i spend a bit of time with my hands in my pockets). However, when you’re talking midwest 10-20f cold i assume you’ll also have on gloves so pockets for warmth becomes a non issue. I have an Anj-4 and find it temp range good for couldy/windy below 35 and more or less anything below 30. Obviously if sunny and walking around a bit no layering needed. The only real drawback to an Anj or B3 around these parts is that once you reach an indoor destination you pretty much immediately need to take it off and then carry a heavy n cumbersome beast.

Remember, custom orders this time of year can easily take 10 weeks from decision. Ordered tomorrow that drops you in mid Jan.

 

[Bfd70]

Also Geol I commend your choice to come here and pick an awesome jacket as opposed to the Midwest uniform of Northface puffy coat. Just remember as detailed in the “which jacket gets the most attention” thread, any shearling pilots jacket results in “where’s the plane” comments. (Maybe not for 840 or 312, but for sure Sloan and I.)

 

[ton312]

Well for me it's probably closer to "where art thou oysters, which are blue?" LOL.

 

[Goel]

Hi,

I don't think i would add a storm flap to a B6, i don't really know what it would achieve as you need serious wind speed to go through a zip. The only place where i find a wind flap is necessary is on a motorcycle, never seen it as necessary on a walking jacket. Since the B6 isn't a leather i would trust on a bike, i wouldn't worry about a wind flap.

No idea about interior pockets, you could possibly add one on the inner pocket bag but i don't see how useful that would be.

Regarding the regular handwarmer pockets, they really don't need to be lined in anything warm, they are inside a fleece jacket. When you put your hands inside of them you are basically putting them in the gap between your body and the fleece, it's already going to be super warm without a need for fancy lining. At least that's how it feels on my B3.

These rear pockets on the IH C3 are a deal killer for me, they look like a backwards facing fanny pack...

The lack of a storm flap on the B6 has mentioned by a few in past topics as a weak point. I've worn jackets without a flap and definitely notice a difference between the two in cold windy conditions. Inside pockets are where I like to safely store my passport/wallet when traveling.

Agreed. The rest of the jacket looks good and I like the hem choice option but those rear pockets....why? That's just a frivolous design element that's unusable and unsightly.

The C3 jacket is customizable and those can removed, in fact they've since developed a much more functional version with shearling lined side entry pockets, internal pockets, and knit cuffs.

I like the longshoreman suggestion.
It also seems from the IH site that the C3 is pretty customizable
Concerning pockets, particularly handwarmers, i am all in favor of them. I just sold a gorgeous jacket simply because it didn’t have them (a first for me, and i learned that apparently i spend a bit of time with my hands in my pockets). However, when you’re talking midwest 10-20f cold i assume you’ll also have on gloves so pockets for warmth becomes a non issue. I have an Anj-4 and find it temp range good for couldy/windy below 35 and more or less anything below 30. Obviously if sunny and walking around a bit no layering needed. The only real drawback to an Anj or B3 around these parts is that once you reach an indoor destination you pretty much immediately need to take it off and then carry a heavy n cumbersome beast.

Yes I definitely wear some lined gloves in the cold but even then I like the idea of moleskin pockets, they're probably as durable than the cotton twill (?) they use for pocket bags but warmer. Northface jackets are practically the uniform around here, never liked them.

 

[Bfd70]

There’s a very nice B-3 in the classifieds at a fair price. You may want to look at the measurements.

 

[Edward]

Of the models mentioned - Aero B6 Redskin. Job done - pocket linings customisable as required.

FWIW, when it comes to pockets below a shearling, I have always found a four-pocket waistcoat works wonders.

Agreed. The rest of the jacket looks good and I like the hem choice option but those rear pockets....why? That's just a frivolous design element that's unusable and unsightly.

Mn. They just don't seem to be able to shake that weird obsession with extraneous / oversized pockets.

I'd go for a Longshoreman from Aero - it's bike-worthy, got pockets and sheepskin-lined. Ask them to put a muton collar on it and you're good to go: http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=27
The plus is that you'll be able to spec size as well.

Oh, yes - or a Thunder Bay. I really fancy the TB myself; indeed, just around the tiem it was released I'd been toying with the spec for a shearling lined Highwayman.... the TB is all that.

 

[Goel]

If I were to get the redskin color I'm sure people would ask where my sleigh is parked.

I've not seen anyone actually use the back C3 pockets. The topic on the IH forum shows every person got the regular straight hem.

The ANJ4 looks like the most functional and durable design and I bet handwarmers would not be hard to add, but I would definitely do 15mm sheepskin. I wonder if the fit changes depending on the sheepskin size?

 

[bn1966]

B-3 pocket on a C-3 looks kinda cool IMHO

 

[Goel]

I've narrowed it down to the B6 or ANJ4 in an 18mm sheepskin now. I'm thinking the 18mm will be a good compromise between the cumbersome 25mm and the lighter 15mm. Is there any difference in warmth between the curly and the straight shearling?

 

[Sloan1874]

Not that I've noticed.

 

[Goel]

Revisiting this topic again. I got an ANJ4 but it didn't work out as it was just too bulky, made me look like I was wearing a deflated marshmallow. Not sure if it was the 18mm fur or just the pattern but it looked awful, thankfully it appears to have finally sold from SB's sale page. Ended up doing a shearling lined M65 which is fantastic, but VERY warm. I don't even want to wear it above freezing, it's definitely in the realm of down parka warmth. So I'm back to looking for something mid-weight, and I'm willing to give a full shearling jacket a chance. The one thing I've been feeling like I'm missing from my collection is a flight jacket so the B6 looks like my best choice (I should have gone with in the first place), but who are the best choices for a semi custom jacket? I definitely want to be sure of the fit this time. I know Aero and SB have customization, has anyone compared the two? Johnson can also do one for me with some lightweight New Zealand garment shearling, but most have a suede finish. What I'd really like is something with a tougher hide (referring to the skin) since sheepskin tends to be pretty weak.

 

[MrProper]

I love my Aero RAF and I think they use similar for there B6

 

[Boyo]

if ya got deep pockets you could try this Black Bear Brand Horsehide Leather N-1 lined in alpaca..

https://blackbearbrand.com/black-bear-brand-factory-store/navy-horsehide-n1-deck-jacket

 

[Goel]

^^ I've got an Iron Heart N1 and it's fantastic, also fills the temperature range I'm looking for but I really want a flight jacket for this one. Also, 2k for a polyester blend lining? Even my $500 IH jacket has 20/80 alpaca/wool.

I really like the ginger fur on that Aero, but I don't know if they would use that on a B6.