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New Aero Original Hercules review, with fit pics

FarWalker

New in Town
Messages
31
Location
Middle East
Fellow Loungers -

Sometime last year, I had an urge to treat myself to a nice leather jacket but had no idea how to go about it. An Internet search brought me to this site, where I lurked for a few months, checking out the photos and advice of other happy (and occasionally unhappy) shoppers until I was ready to pull the trigger on an order.

In choosing my jacket, I had no interest in historical accuracy (who really wants to wear their pants that high?), nor did I want to become a chronic buyer of leather jackets, modifying and experimenting until I got it right. What I wanted was a near-perfect, high-quality garment that would fit my long torso and arms and that I could wear all over the place for many, many years.

The jacket has now arrived and I am very happy with it. Here is my post about the process and all I learned from it for all those others lurking out there and trying to make decisions about their own fateful orders. I also feel that the Original Hercules is a great design that is underrepresented on the Lounge. I almost didn’t go for it since I couldn’t find any fit pictures of it that I liked, especially in brown. Now I am glad I did.

I hope this post proves useful.

But first, the jacket:

Front, unzipped:
IMG_1546_zps71572bdd.jpg


Front, zipped:
IMG_1552_zpsa9c911d4.jpg


Side, unzipped:
IMG_1567_zps6740ec41.jpg


Back, zipped:
IMG_1555_zpsb3a0affd.jpg


Back, unzipped:
IMG_1556_zpsc7129151.jpg


Tag:
IMG_1575_zps4bc49821.jpg


Front, flat:
IMG_1574_zps4e275458.jpg


Back, flat:
IMG_1576_zps81ff3290.jpg


The specs:

Aero Original Hercules in Brown FQHH
Size 38
27.5 inch sleeves
26.5 inch back
Horizontal left front chest pocket with ball zip
Inside left gun pocket with ball zip
Antique brass hardware
Lochcarran tartan lining in body; brown drill in sleeves
The final product measures 17.5 inches across the shoulders in the back and 22 inches pit to pit across the front.

For those trying to gauge fit, I’m 6’1”, about 170 lbs. I wear size 38 suit jacket, usually slim cut.

The tale:

Since there was no way for me to get to Scotland to try on jackets, I ordered through Thurston Bros. to get a fit jacket before placing my order. I recommend that route, as the fit jacket will give you a much better sense of what you are going for than looking at a bunch of photos online. Throughout the process, Wade and Carrie were very helpful as I waffled, asked tons of nitpicky questions and repeatedly changed my mind and order.

At the start, I called and told Wade I wanted an Original Hercules. He asked some fit questions and sent me a size 38 Sunburst Halfbelt as a fit jacket. I was a bit dispirited, as the Sunburst is too flashy for me and the jacket was way too snug – meaning I liked neither the model nor the fit. But I sent Wade some photos and listed my concerns, and he recommended a 38 Hercules, which is slightly wider in the chest, with added length to the body and arms.

It took a number of months to get the jacket. My first order came back from Aero shorter than ordered. Carrie sent me a photo of it and let me modify a few things before ordering up a re-do. At no time did she try to convince me to take a jacket that didn’t line up with my order, which I appreciated. After that there was a delay because Aero was out of Brown FQHH. The final jacket came a month or so later and was spot on.

The leather is super heavy, but is already breaking in nicely (the photos above are after two weeks of wear, including a stroll in the rain). I always have a hard time getting sleeves that are long enough, but the custom order solved that. And the body is long enough that I don’t get a draft up my belly when I raise my arms (which I hate). The body is so stiff that the collar and shoulders rise when I sit down. I probably could have lessened that by asking that the front zipper start two inches above the bottom of the jacket, but I am guessing that this will be less of a problem once the leather breaks in.

If I were to do it again, the only thing I would change would be not to put a chest pocket and inside pocket on the same side. Both have lots of extra leather around their openings and are lined with heavy moleskin, so they add considerable bulk to that side of the jacket. They also overlap and will probably show through the front as the jacket breaks in. Whether that will be annoying or merely add to the garment’s character, only time will tell. I like the look of the breast pocket, but the inside pocket is more useful for stashing cash and such, so I’d probably go with only the latter. I have actually considered cutting out the inside of the breast pocket to get rid of the extra bulk, but it hasn’t bothered me enough yet to drive me to such extremes. Any loungers have experience with inside/chest pockets breaking in in unfortunate ways?

In general, the jacket is a beauty and a treat to wear.

Comments and queries welcome.
 
Last edited:

schitzo

Suspended
Messages
1,472
Location
London
Any chance we could see a full length photo of you with it on and zipped up? By all means cut your head off if you don't feel like showing your face. That for me is the only way to properly gauge the length.

However, my initial reaction looking at the torso pics is it's a bit on the long side. For me, shorter with no breast pocket would be better. But if you can provide the full length shot I'll be happy to revise that opinion if merited

All in all I think you have chosen an excellent model, my personal favourite from the aero range in fact
 

bretron

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,519
Location
NW
That's a real showpiece. Congratulations! I personally think the horizontal chest pocket is perfect- just looks right to me when paired with the throat tab; such is the beauty of being able to modify a pattern (get whatcha want).

Enjoy the jacket
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,078
Location
London, UK
Lovely looking jacket. That brown hide will age wonderfully. It's interesting how relatively subtle the differences are between this and my Dustbowl. Very similar backs; similar fronts too - I modified mine by having a plain front and chest zip pocket instead of the front yoke. I actually based it on the Speedster originally, but wanted what I considered to be the nicer back of the DB... I tend to refer to the jacket now as the Speedbowl. The differences between mine and yours in design are relatively minor - side buckle placement, mine doesn't have a throat latch, and such. Seems to me to be reflective of the shift in Aero direction since Ken took over the reigns again - instead of allowing unlimited customer mods, offering a much wider range of subtly different sotck designs from which to choose.

I have the same experience as yourself, that the chest pocket is more show than go; I find them fine for sticking in the ipod when I'm listening on the train, or tucking the pipe in when I'm out and about, but the inside pocket is definitely better for other stuff. FWIW, the breast pocket on my HWM (much-used, as I have no interior pockets on that jacket) is definitely markedly bigger, though the most practical chest pocket on all my Aeros is the one fitted as standard to the left breast of the Bootlegger.... tempted to have one like the latter, if an option, on my inevitable next jacket.... Most of my jackets thus far had two interior pockets, but this time I decided to go with just the one, and specc'ed it to be on the right breast, partly for balance and partly because I'm a southpaw. I think that's the arrangement I'll go with in future. Yours is in the standard configuration if you ask for one pocket but don't specify which (I suppose for a right hander, that's easier is the idea). FWIW, from experience of a 30s half belt with the two, small horizontal pockets on the chest and two in the interior, if you don't really use the breast pockets anyhow, I can't imagine you'll find in use that it feels too bulky either size. Grand jacket, enjoy.

Oh... and yeah, there really are rather a lot of us (at least half of the thousands of FL members, I'd estimate) who really do want to wear our "pants" "that high". ;)
 

Cooperson

One Too Many
Messages
1,165
Location
Midlands UK
That's a good looking half belt. I always find it difficult to judge jacket length when the shirt is hanging out, so I can't really comment on that. I am liking the dark even colour hides coming from Horween at the moment ( I'm very happy with my recent jacket) and it should break in a treat. Enjoy!
 

tropicalbob

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,954
Location
miami, fl
That really is a beautiful jacket, and the best part of owning one is that it just gets better and better as it breaks in. While looking at the pic of the back, I couldn't help thinking how fantastic it will look in time. Also, I wouldn't worry about the jacket rising when you sit: in a month or so it won't happen. Cheers.
 

Fanch

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,490
Location
Texas
Beautiful jacket and one that I have also considered. Like you I also need a 26.5" back length and 27.5" sleeves. Are your sleeves lined in cotton drill or moleskin? With what material are your cuffs lined?
 

dan_t

Practically Family
Messages
950
Location
Sydney, Australia
Man, that's a really, really nice jacket!
I'm a little like you, lurking around the shadows of this great site, popping my head up every now & then, trying to learn about what is actually available before jumping in and buying my first Aero.
Likewise, I'm not too hooked up on the historical accuracy, I'd rather see a great pattern, brilliant fit & world-class hand made product.
For what It's worth, I think the length is perfect for your body, it seems to be 'balanced'.
 

FarWalker

New in Town
Messages
31
Location
Middle East
Thanks for the comments, all.

@Edward - No offense intended with the "pants" comment. I am a firm believer that men can wear their pants - or trousers, as the case may be - at any height they want.

@Fanch - Sleeves are brown drill and cuffs are leather-lined. No reason yet to be dissatisfied with either, but I did consider asking for gaberdine for the arms.
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
This jacket looks both long and short to me. The wearer must be very slender to make it appear that way. Look at the jeans back pockets and the jacket seam, that jacket is showing plenty of room above the pocket edge. Way more room than I would want. It's not my favorite jacket pattern, I have to say, and not sure about the look of that front seam or belt-line which dips lower at the zip. I'd like to see more people wearing it to get a better sense of this jacket.
 

Sloan1874

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,425
Location
Glasgow
The length looks fine to me, at least in relation to your jeans it does and if that's how you wear the majority of your denims, and this is your only jacket, then you'll get the most wear out of it.
One of the benefits of having the two pockets on the same side is that the moleskin of the breast one stops the inside one shining through, so you won't have that problem to contend with.
 

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