My very first double-breasted suit

[db5zx]

Hi, everybody!

I am wearing hats for about two years now and got my first vintage (1950's) suit about a year ago. But two weeks ago I bought a great 1940's double-breasted suit on eBay and it arrived yesterday. I immediately put it on and it fits almost perfectly, considering the fact that it was not made for me and made a long time ago. Plus, it is in great condition. Here are two photographs, one with hat, one without:

Pardon the poor quality, but I am living by myself all alone, so I had to use the self-timer. Also, the camers is 5 years old...

The suit is the one I just got from eBay, the hat is a new, brown Biltmore Royal, the shirt is a modern white dress shirt and the tie is a modern 5$-tie I just got last weekend, as I figured it might look good with the suit.

Also, pardon the haircut, I am in the middle of growing it out to get a decent 40's cut...

What do you guys (and ladies, of course) think? Before I got it, I was thinking to bring it to the taylor, but now I think it fits so well, a modern taylor couldn't do anything but harm it and destroy the fit...

Allbest...
...Jens

 

[The real Henry]

Wow, a very nice suit. Looks more 1930s to me!


BTW-Try to do the tie-knot as tiny as possible and it'll look much more vintage!

 

[Orgetorix]

Very nice! It does fit you quite well indeed. If it were my suit, I'd have the sleeves shortened just enough to show 1/4"-1/2" of shirt cuff. But other than that, it's fine!

 

[reetpleat]

Agreed. Perfect fit. Sleeves maybe, but other than that, looks great.

 

[J. M. Stovall]

Looks great!

 

[ENfield3-8303]

An outstanding suit.

 

[Feraud]

Very nice!

 

[db5zx]

Thanks for all your nice comments, guys, I really appreciate it.

One question concerning the tie knot. As Henry mentioned, it is rather large. The problem is that a) I have no clue which tie knot would be period-correct and b) that knot is the only tie knot I know how to tie (so far).

Tell me which knot is period correct and I'll learn how to tie it ;-)

Allbest...
...Jens

 

[Feraud]

What kind of knot are you using? A Four in Hand should produce a smaller knot depending on how thick the tie iteself is..

 

[db5zx]

I am using a Windsor knot. I think I'll try the Four-in-Hand soon and see if it looks better than this one.

Jens

 

[Feraud]

No wonder! A Windsor produces a fatter knot.
The Four in Hand should improve things a bit.

 

[Jay]

Totally awesome.

 

[nulty]

I was a windsor type for years but the 4 in hand knot has changed ny whole attitude.....you'll love it..

Great Suit!

 

[Feraud]

I was a windsor type for years but the 4 in hand knot has changed ny whole attitude.....you'll love it..

Great Suit!

Good point. A particular knot, tie, or suit can change your whole attitude!

 

[Matt Deckard]

i like double breasted suits... not as much as a single breasted three piece, though Double breasted are a nice change in my wardrobe when I need that more buttoned up feel. Very good looking suit. Proportions are well suited to you. Good find.

 

[happyfilmluvguy]

All you need now is a pocket square and you're set.

 

[Jovan]

I know I'll get flak for saying this because it's not very "classic," but I'd unbutton that bottom button. It'll make you look more at ease and give you better movement.

 

[Mr. Rover]

Actually, that look is totally 40's to unbutton the bottom button. The bottom buttons are placed right at the hips at the pocket slits, so the cut should allow you to just button the bottom button.

 

[Jovan]

Didn't know that. I thought most guys back then buttoned their DB jackets all the way. There seems to be more confusion and debate over this nowadays than there is for single breasted jackets.

 

[Mr. Rover]

From old pictures, I've seen all or either the top or bottom....buttoning just the bottom really relies on the cut of the suit. Buttoning all of them always seems kind of stuffy to me, and buttoning the bottom was for the super stylish.
Earlier suits, like from the 30's, have a higher button placement usually and allow the bottom button to button without affect the cut. The problem with most 80's-style and later 40's (except for 47-49 or whatever period when the higher stance came back in) is that the buttons are just set too low to do this. Some of the new DB's that are coming back in, like at Polo, Hugo Boss, and maybe Zegna, have a higher stance. I know the designer at my uncle's company DC Design has put the higher stance on his DB tuxedos.
I'm probably contradicting my last statement then...anyone have further documented evidence of this fad? I know a lounger posted a picture of his granddad wearing it this way. If you watch Astaire in Holiday Inn ('41-'42?), he is only buttoning his bottom one.