Making an ANJ-3

[fishmeok]

I've been slowly working on my ANJ-3 and as usual my pattern is leaving a lot to be desired. I am basing this on my rotted out G&F M-422A but since this is my only example (and the upper half of the back is rotted out) I had to make some educated guesses about the way the pieces are made. It's surprisingly difficult to figure out whether a seam is supposed to be straight or if the "set" the leather has taken over the last 60 years is the true pattern line. I have a "C" contract G-1 to compare it with, but there are so many differences between the two that I can really only use it as a construction guide. Since the pics I have sewn up the side seams, constructed the arms, and am working on epaulet placement. John clued me in on the best way to sew the buttonholes on the pockets, and I am going for a nice scalloped pocket flap. This jacket is going to have Dubow epaulets and collar, A-2 front including zipper construction, and I'm going to use the leather strips inside along the liner as on an M-422A so I can include the inside pocket. No inside windflap though, I think that would be redundant. also M-422A knits.

I already messed up the original back panel and had to make a two-pice out of my remaining leather...

These jackets are very difficult to make, and incredibly labor intensive. A real challenge for the hobbyist..
Cheers
Mark

 

[krasno35]

Really nice leather. The work on the pocket shows an interesting begining!

Jerome

 

[Fletch]

Another promising project!

Say, you're probably to the point by now where you could make good $$$ taking jacket repairs. You'd be in a good niche market - nobody but the manufacturers does it right, and not all of them will, either.

 

[jack miranda]

That is very nice work. Elegant looking pockets, and very fine leather. :eusa_clap

 

[fishmeok]

I've thought about that, but it takes almost as long to repair one as to make a new- and I'm more interested right now in using the time to make my own. I do have a couple hanging in my closet to practice fixing up when I get the chance. Biggest problem is fixing what other people have already fixed. I have an early G-1 with a completely messed up (as in unsalvagable) collar and way too many holes from previous repairs- keep forgetting to ask Chapman if I can get some leather from him to re-make the back half of the collar.

Anybody know off hand what Eastman and Aero charge? Just curious. The exspense of replacing the knits and zipper on an old Avirex A-2 that I used to have is what got me started on this whole jacket making trip, I hate paying people to fix something I can repair myself.
Cheers
Mark

 

[rgraham]

Yet another great looking start to a great jacket.

What kind of leather is it?

Please start making your test jackets in a size 48.

 

[fishmeok]

Yet another great looking start to a great jacket.

What kind of leather is it?

Please start making your test jackets in a size 48.

Damnit, I'm trying... I keep starting out intending to make a 46 or 48 and end up with a 42-44:eusa_doh:

That whole pattern + skill thing, still working on that...

The leather is just some cow I bought on e-bay, nothing special but it's the thinnest stuff I've been able to get so far. Almost as thin as the goat on the original 422A, very nice to work with.
Cheers
Mark

 

[rgraham]

Damnit,
The leather is just some cow I bought on e-bay, nothing special but it's the thinnest stuff I've been able to get so far. Almost as thin as the goat on the original 422A, very nice to work with.
Cheers
Mark

I have an A-2 made by John. I requested it be cowhide after looking at many different leathers including goat and horse. It was the toughest, abrasion resistant leather of the bunch offered. I mean I literally scrubbed the different leathers on cement to see how they would fare. This particular cow held up far better then the others. I think a well tanned cowhide is great.

Look forward to following the progress.

 

[john z]

I have an early G-1 with a completely messed up (as in unsalvagable) collar and way too many holes from previous repairs- keep forgetting to ask Chapman if I can get some leather from him to re-make the back half of the collar. Cheers
Mark

I have a really nice mouton collar taken from a Ralph Edwards '64 G1. Still attached to the leather backing. Is a beautiful example in colour & condition. If it helps in furthering your aims then it's yours for the cost of the postage.

If you're interested I will of course post some pics.

Happy New Year

 

[Fletch]

Anybody know off hand what Eastman and Aero charge? Just curious. The exspense of replacing the knits and zipper on an old Avirex A-2 that I used to have is what got me started on this whole jacket making trip, I hate paying people to fix something I can repair myself.

IIRC, it's about $100US to replace wrist knits - before postage.

I'm telling you, you'd have very little competition Stateside, especially with your expertise. Everyone else who can do this is too busy making new product.

 

[omar]

Looks to me like you are way past most hobbiests; I've done a bunch of waistband, cuffs on g-1's { easly because of the external stiching} I'd say what ever you think seems proper to go ahead and do it; you're obvioulsy not going to wreck something. and a functional jacket is better than something that just ends up[on a hanger; that's my opinion; which, accorting to my wife, isn't worth a heck of as lot!

 

[fishmeok]

I have a really nice mouton collar taken from a Ralph Edwards '64 G1. Still attached to the leather backing. Is a beautiful example in colour & condition. If it helps in furthering your aims then it's yours for the cost of the postage.

If you're interested I will of course post some pics.

Happy New Year

Thanks for the offer, I really appreciate it. I have some nice mouton already, just need a strip of leather to make the back, and I want to copy the original collar as closely as possible since it's kind of an oddball jacket.
Thanks again
Mark

 

[fishmeok]

I have an A-2 made by John. I requested it be cowhide after looking at many different leathers including goat and horse. It was the toughest, abrasion resistant leather of the bunch offered. I mean I literally scrubbed the different leathers on cement to see how they would fare. This particular cow held up far better then the others. I think a well tanned cowhide is great.

No disagreement there, I've found some really nice cow (mostly from kyson leather on e-bay, they send out samples) the only problem is finding it thin enough to drape properly, since all the good stuff is upholstery leather.
Cheers
Mark

 

[fishmeok]

IIRC, it's about $100US to replace wrist knits - before postage.

I'm telling you, you'd have very little competition Stateside, especially with your expertise. Everyone else who can do this is too busy making new product.

You're right Fletch- I think one of the things I need to do this year is get more serious about this thing, decide on a name, get some word-of-mouth going. After the ANJ-3 I'll fix up a couple of the bangers in my closet and take pics.
Cheers
Mark

 

[tonyb]

You're right Fletch- I think one of the things I need to do this year is get more serious about this thing, decide on a name, get some word-of-mouth going.
Cheers
Mark

Indeed, Mark. I encourage it. Should you get it going, you'll likely find a customer in me.

 

[fishmeok]

Moving along. Finished the pockets, sleeves, and epaulets. I messed up one shoulder but the other side turned out fairly well. I am going to have to take a hard look at the way the epaulets lie on the shoulders. Right now they run along the body shoulder seam which puts 5 layers of leather (folded) in my way- that's too thick to sew through consistently. will probably have to make them narrower and maybe forward just a bit.
Cheers
Mark

This is the shoulder I messed up- compare to the previous pic

 

[H.Johnson]

I think you're doing very well. It's obviously single needle work, but that gives a good 'vintage' impression, I think. I'd seriously consider going along with the suggestions here and seeing if you can provide a commercial service, if I were you.

The epaulettes on an A-2 are about the hardest sewing you can do IME. I recently restored one (a Dubow) and ended up hand-sewing the shoulders as the machine wouldn't 'cut it'. I think you started the box stitches before you attached the epaulettes? Would you do it that way again, may I ask?

Actually, I prefer hand-sewing (if I have the time) for many restoration jobs. If you do it properly you can't tell the difference.

 

[Creeping Past]

Fishmeok, this ongoing project is getting really interesting. You're producing some high quality work.

On this jacket, I really like the cut of the pocket flaps. The underarm arrangement is also beautifully done.

I think it's almost time to go commercial. People would be — in fact, re-reading some previous comments they already are — forming a line round the block to get a Fishmeok original Future Classic.

 

[john z]

Thanks for the offer, I really appreciate it. I have some nice mouton already, just need a strip of leather to make the back, and I want to copy the original collar as closely as possible since it's kind of an oddball jacket.
Thanks again
Mark

No thanks expected but gratefully accepted. I have no use for the collar so I'd be happy to see it go to good use. Your reason for not accepting is fully understood. If you ever find you need it & I still have it your welcome to it.

Just like to say that's some nice work you're doing there & can see you're going to be producing some fine marketable products before not too long. Assuming you'd want to sell any of your creations that is.

Have you sewn elasticated closers into that expanding back BTW?

 

[Fletch]

Nice work on the arm gussets. I must ask you one day to install a pair in my Bonanza steer A-2. I lift my arms much beyond 45° and it says "whoa!"