Leather Surgery Q

[Al 916]

Hi,

Could the experts help with a diagnosis, and maybe a course of treatment for:

Many thanks
Al

 

[ton312]

Best you can do is condition it and keep it from cracking any deeper. Ultimately though it's just kicking the can down the road. The only cure for flaking like that is to replace the panel. I had an old M/C jacket with this type of flaking and wore it for years. Just don't let it get too thirsty.

 

[Al 916]

Thanks Ton (what causes this type of damage?)

 

[handymike]

Storage in a hot dry place like an attic, barn or garage.

 

[Monitor]

Is that CXL? If it is, I'm guessing it's very hot and humid wherever this jacket is residing.

 

[handymike]

Humidity does this? I thought the opposite. If this is an Aero...wow/ eek.

 

[Monitor]

Humidity does this? I thought the opposite. If this is an Aero...wow/ eek.

It is my observation that humidity is especially tough on Horween CXL. Not Chrome tanned jackets in general, of course but I regularly see Horween CXL jackets in Asia flaking off like that.

 

[Al 916]

Yep Aero.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284356110816?hash=item4234f1e9e0:g:eDwAAOSwGJ1g3sub

I am keeping an eye out for one and this came up. I thought the collar stitch looked slightly off too but that may just be my inexperienced eye.

 

[handymike]

This could possibly be Aero’s “Vintage Brown”. It was used around 2010. It had some of this “suede” feel going on with the topcoat. The jacket also has the blue label which signals a trainee or not quite first run quality.
Stay clear if you’re in doubt. There are plenty out there.

 

[ton312]

^^ Agree, if you don't own this...keep it that way.

 

[Monitor]

Yep Aero.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284356110816?hash=item4234f1e9e0:g:eDwAAOSwGJ1g3sub

I am keeping an eye out for one and this came up. I thought the collar stitch looked slightly off too but that may just be my inexperienced eye.

Yep, thought it might be what it is. I'm fairly convinced at this point that some of the hide Horween made is faulty as this should not generally be happening to any leather jacket, yet I've seen quite a few instances of the exact same issue plaguing these jackets - Thought mostly in Asia. This isn't Aero's fault as they haven't tanned the leather and while new, they couldn't have predicted this would happen. My guess is it's just chemically... Well, off. What @handymike said, it's that certain type (batch, perhaps?) of CXL that has very thick finish which clearly has a life span. There might be a lot of wax in it, I don't know but something's making it to dry out and flake off like that much sooner than it's supposed to. I had one jacket like that and I wouldn't want another.

Some Horween CXL is heavily treated. Sanded, whatever. I don't know but very little epidermis is left and what little there is, isn't strong enough to keep all that heavy finish intact. I've seen jackets on Japanese listings cracking all the way through. Not a pretty sight. In any case, I'd avoid this jacket.

Get this one, instead. If it fits. It may be Connolly, though it doesn't really matter as literally every one of these HWM's made from random cowhide were outstanding! This leather is sure to survive and outlast several generations of wearers.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193946114699

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194019702792?hash=item2d2c79b808:g:4mAAAOSwGeZgW1xA

 

[Al 916]

Yep, thought it might be what it is. I'm fairly convinced at this point that some of the hide Horween made is faulty as this should not generally be happening to any leather jacket, yet I've seen quite a few instances of the exact same issue plaguing these jackets - Thought mostly in Asia. This isn't Aero's fault as they haven't tanned the leather and while new, they couldn't have predicted this would happen. My guess is it's just chemically... Well, off. What @handymike said, it's that certain type (batch, perhaps?) of CXL that has very thick finish which clearly has a life span. There might be a lot of wax in it, I don't know but something's making it to dry out and flake off like that much sooner than it's supposed to. I had one jacket like that and I wouldn't want another.

Some Horween CXL is heavily treated. Sanded, whatever. I don't know but very little epidermis is left and what little there is, isn't strong enough to keep all that heavy finish intact. I've seen jackets on Japanese listings cracking all the way through. Not a pretty sight. In any case, I'd avoid this jacket.

Get this one, instead. If it fits. It may be Connolly, though it doesn't really matter as literally every one of these HWM's made from random cowhide were outstanding! This leather is sure to survive and outlast several generations of wearers.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193946114699

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194019702792

Hi Monitor,

Yes I saw both of these (same seller) the first one is good fit wise. I noticed the Zip pull (Suzuki?) and the folding of the waist piece. Either problems do you think?

 

[zebedee]

I've not had any trouble with jackets in Shanghai/Hong Kong at all. I treat jackets with Renapur about every half a year and keep them in a cupboard with some dehumidifier gel boxes. I sometimes air them for a day in a spare room with the aircon turned on.

 

[Monitor]

Hi Monitor,

Yes I saw both of these (same seller) the first one is good fit wise. I noticed the Zip pull (Suzuki?) and the folding of the waist piece. Either problems do you think?

Doesn't look to me like the zipper is a replacement so if that's what Aero used for the jacket, all good. Looks like a nice, sturdy zipper, actually. The folding... I dunno, should be a problem when worn. You can always re-shape that later on, same principle as shaping collar.

 

[navetsea]

I live in tropical climate, and sometime I sweat a little inside my jacket due to sun exposure like when stopping at traffic light waiting for the light turns green, I have a jacket made from a chrometanned cow with waxy finish, and the part of the collar touching my skin absorbs oil and I guess salt from sweat ,after few years it develops micro cracks on the surface, so I resurfaced it with varnish/ leather final coat to stop it from further degrading. But I feel waxy finish is weaker than pigment finish for jacket purpose, maybe it is a strong finish for boots or bag or wallet you can buff a minor scratch off, has more character and patina potential, but it still react to salt, skin oil, etc. not ideal for something touching my skin all day.
I don't have similar problem on any of my pigment finish leather, they are more boring to look at, not really growing any darker patina with wear, but also hardly absorbing anything.

 

[Al 916]

And now it's a bit like one of those things you just cannot stop seeing (from Japan in this case)

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

And now it's a bit like one of those things you just cannot stop seeing (from Japan in this case)

View attachment 344777

This looks like red rot to me.
No fix there.
B

 

[Al 916]

This looks like red rot to me.
No fix there.
B

Is that the same as Monitor is describing?

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

Is that the same as Monitor is describing?

Red rot is pervasive in veg tanned leathers. High humidity and temperatures are known causes.
I believe @Monitor described this well and i would never dispute his exceptional knowledge base nor his advice.
B

 

[jonbuilder]

This Trojan Sportswear came out of Japan. The rip at the shoulder stared when I tried the jacket on. Dena looked at these pictures and mentioned the leather is not vat-dyed and has a super heavy finish. That also is hard to stop from coming away from the skin once it has started.