Lapels

[habberdasher]

I don't know how wide lapels were from the 20s-50s. I thought from the late twenties to mid fifties wide lapels were de regueur, but in a lot of thirties movies (particularly "Bringing up Baby", where Cary Grant wears pretty reasonable, medium lapels with a slim cut suit) I see pretty standard lapel sizes. So I ask from the early 20s, awkward "Jazz suit", with its bunched buttons and multiple vents to the late fifties continental look, what were the approximate lapel sizes, or did they vary?

 

[boushi_mania]

I don't know how wide lapels were from the 20s-50s. I thought from the late twenties to mid fifties wide lapels were de regueur, but in a lot of thirties movies (particularly "Bringing up Baby", where Cary Grant wears pretty reasonable, medium lapels with a slim cut suit) I see pretty standard lapel sizes. So I ask from the early 20s, awkward "Jazz suit", with its bunched buttons and multiple vents to the late fifties continental look, what were the approximate lapel sizes, or did they vary?

I don't know that you can really pin down a "standard" lapel size; things varied quite a bit, not everyone went out and bought the latest fashions just because they were there.

That said, there were definite trends in the menswear industry, and I'm curious about specific (if approximate) dimensions—as well as the rise and fall of the gorge—in the same time period. I personally tend to go for a 3 1/4" lapel (neatly splitting the difference between my widest and narrowest ties), but I've flirted in the past with the idea of replicating the look of a vintage garment. Of course, there is far more to a suit's look than the lapels alone...

 

[habberdasher]

I don't know that you can really pin down a "standard" lapel size; things varied quite a bit, not everyone went out and bought the latest fashions just because they were there.

That said, there were definite trends in the menswear industry, and I'm curious about specific (if approximate) dimensions—as well as the rise and fall of the gorge—in the same time period. I personally tend to go for a 3 1/4" lapel (neatly splitting the difference between my widest and narrowest ties), but I've flirted in the past with the idea of replicating the look of a vintage garment. Of course, there is far more to a suit's look than the lapels alone...

Thanks for the help, and yes, there is a lot more to a suit than the lapel. Isn't a 3 1/4 inch lapel pretty modern and balanced?

 

[BinkieBaumont]

"My New suit arrived from "Prince Henry" the lapels are 4 1/2 " but are they wide enough? could I go larger, 5"? peut-être ?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Lapel widths varied a lot. And more to the point, the proportions of the lapels when compared to the rest of the jacket varied a lot. I would say it's pretty well accepted that just post war, middle-late 1940s, the lapels reached their zenith in terms of width … but for each chest size that actual width would be different.

For example, if you put the same lapel width on two jackets - one for me at 5' 2" and 35" chest, and one for Scotrace at what, 6' whatever and 44" chest - one of us would look ridiculous.

bk

 

[John in Covina]

If you would like to see some fairly wide lapels of the mid to late forties watch the film "The Two Jakes" (AKA Chinatown II.)

Jack Nicholson has some really fine examples of this exceptionally wide style that he wears in this film.

 

[BinkieBaumont]

"Oh I see what you mean"

 

[cookie]

If you would like to see some fairly wide lapels of the mid to late forties watch the film "The Two Jakes" (AKA Chinatown II.)

Jack Nicholson has some really fine examples of this exceptionally wide style that he wears in this film.

Funnily enough I saw this recently again on cable and was amazed at the size of the lapels. Is it an aspect of the "Bold Look"?

[/QUOTE]

Re the lapels:

Don't screw around with perfection! Any overall pics?

 

[John in Covina]

The reasons behind the extra wide lapels are unclear but I don't think it is completely linked to the bold look.

Speculation says it was part of a drive to take the wider look to it's zenith, while others say it's a response to the ending of wartime shortages that allowed the designers to go for excess.

 

[Lensmaster]

Though lapel fashion got very wide and very narrow at various times in history it seems that a medium width was always appropriate, and looked the best. About halfway between the shoulder and the roll of the lapel seems to be a appealing width. The exact measurement of this varies of course on the size of the man. In pictures and movies from various decades amongst well dressed men it seems to be consistent. I've seen suits from the 30's that wouldn't look at all out of place today because they were cut according to classic dimensions rather than fashion. On the other hand there are lots of examples of wide lapels from the 40's and 70's and narrow lapels from the 60's and today that just look very unbalanced.

 

[Tomasso]

The Baron has spoken!!!

Which should be the end of the conversation........pretty much.....

 

[icecold]

Guys, I've been wondering for a while - how do you measure the lapel width? Is is along the seam that connects the lapel to the collar? Or is is parallel to the floor (which would mean roughly 45 degrees away from the collar seam). The latter measurement will always be a bit larger than the former. So, which is the correct way to measure them?

 

[avedwards]

Funnily enough I saw this recently again on cable and was amazed at the size of the lapels. Is it an aspect of the "Bold Look"?

Peaked lapels usually appear to be wider than notched lapels anyway unless I'm mistaken. I have a late 30s/early 40s DB suit with even wider lapels than that - almost reaching my shoulders. However, maybe it's the symetry created by DB suits, but it doesn't look unbalanced in any way.

 

[filfoster]

Bumpety bump

Guys, I've been wondering for a while - how do you measure the lapel width? Is is along the seam that connects the lapel to the collar? Or is is parallel to the floor (which would mean roughly 45 degrees away from the collar seam). The latter measurement will always be a bit larger than the former. So, which is the correct way to measure them?

Bump here to prompt an answer. This is a useful piece of information, especially for any of us trying to guide Oriental tailors....

 

[boushi_mania]

Bump here to prompt an answer. This is a useful piece of information, especially for any of us trying to guide Oriental tailors....

Here in Japan, I was told it's a straight line from the roll of the lapel, horizontally over to the "point" below the notch (EDIT: see Tomasso's post below for a perfect illustration of what I mean). By that measurement, the suit I wear for teacher conferences and assemblies has 8.5 cm (~3 3/8") lapels.

 

[Tomasso]

how do you measure the lapel width?

 

[icecold]

Thanks a lot for the clarification.:eusa_clap
In such a case, I have suits with lapels that range from 2 3/4" to 4".
Either looks good, just different looks; I think 3" is ideal (for my size - 5'8", 160 lbs...).

 

[BinkieBaumont]

"MMM when I was measured for this suit the tailor recommended 4" lapels, i asked for 4 1/2 maybe next time I will ask for 5"?"

 

[filfoster]

Thank you!

Tomasso to the rescue. Perfect, and thanks.

 

[Tomasso]

are they wide enough? could I go larger?

Just how wide were you thinking, Binkie.