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Johnsons Leather Fit Jacket Feedback

avsmusic1

Familiar Face
Messages
91
Location
United States
Hey Guys
I've been talking to Alan about having a jacket made based off of their m200 and I just received a fit jacket in the mail today. (quick side note - Alan is as good or better than everything I've read here) Anyway, I'm looking for opinions / feedback on fit and alteration suggestions. I'm not going to be riding in this jacket. I'm looking for something fairly fitted but not skin tight (as the fit jacket is). Basically, I want enough room to wear a sweater or layer a hoodie but fairly trim within that functionality.

I'm thinking I want an extra inch (2?) in body length and an extra inch in circumference from the chest all the way down.
I think the shoulders and arm circumference look good. Arm length isn't bad but I may shorten them a pinch.

Thanks in advance!

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Superfluous

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3,995
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Missing in action
My humble opinion:

Chest: A tad too trim

Shoulders: A hair too wide

Waist: Spot on

Overall length: Too short -- I prefer longer jackets

Sleeve length: I like longer sleeves, so the length works for me -- that said, some will say you can trim a tad from the sleeve length, and they would not be wrong.

Ps: That is some serious leather -- very cool!
 

avsmusic1

Familiar Face
Messages
91
Location
United States
Almost forgot - for those interested, my intended stylistic changes are as follows:

Inside pocket on inside left w/ snap
No chest pocket
Button cuffs
Nickel/Silver hardware
No wind-flap
Brown leather (HH or Steer -TBD)

Thanks again
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
I agree mostly with your assessment. Sleeves look fine. An inch or two in the body to taste. You'll pobably find some guys will tell you the length is good as some like very short jackets. I generally want the back to cover the top of my jeans pocket and the front to cover my belt with an extra 2-3 inches. At my hight of 6ft 2 I generally go with a 26-27 inch back as the ideal length.
 

avsmusic1

Familiar Face
Messages
91
Location
United States
Thanks Superfluous & Seb
I generally agree. Any risk of inhibiting my range of motion if I opted to trim the shoulders a bit? My other concern on that is that any change I'd make would probably be so minor it would be w/in the acceptable mfg error range (i have this same thought about the sleeve length)
 

Superfluous

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Thanks Superfluous & Seb
I generally agree. Any risk of inhibiting my range of motion if I opted to trim the shoulders a bit?

If you are not riding, trimming the shoulder will not impair your movement. Moreover, a slightly trimmer shoulder will make the jacket drape much better and eliminate much of the creasing in the front.
 

avsmusic1

Familiar Face
Messages
91
Location
United States
The other wild card here is that the test jacket has a quilted liner and I am probably going to go with a plain cotton drill which should impact the fit. Alan is going to show these same pics to his head tailor and pattern maker early next wk (they are on vaca at the moment) and get their opinions too.
 

avsmusic1

Familiar Face
Messages
91
Location
United States
If you are not riding, trimming the shoulder will not impair your movement. Moreover, a slightly trimmer shoulder will make the jacket drape much better and eliminate much of the creasing in the front.

Thanks. I'm assuming you're referring to the creasing in the first front pic at the top of my chest - about level with the pocket? If so, that would be interesting b/c I was assuming that was due to the snugness in the chest.
 
Messages
10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
I like it. Chest will likely stretch.
Sleeves great.
Shoulders - look OK here, so I can't say I'd change them.
Length - personal taste - but I do like a jacket to fit that way.
Bottom line: if I were out and saw you wearing that, I'd come up and ask what it was because it looks great. My 2¢
 

nick123

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,371
Location
California
You can get away with it as it stands. But I think you'll be more at ease with another inch in body length or so. Maybe 1.5.
 
Messages
16,855
I like it. As it stands, you're pulling it off well but I personally would go one size up. I know everyone's after that crazy tight fit nowadays but in the long run, you might regret it and end up being stuck with the jacket that you can't really use as much as you thought you would. You said it yourself, you need some room for layering and also, leather might or might not shrink a bit and either way, that's not something you want to risk happening ta a jacket as trim as this test jacket. Also, while I think the length looks good - it's how I like my jackets to fit - I'm in minority here and an inch more can only do you good anyway so I'm with you on this one. Finally, don't touch the sleeves.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,084
Location
London, UK
Looks great as is, but unless my eyes are going you're not leyering in those photos. One size up (most manufacturers thix adds 2" to the chest) should do the trick there. Length looks perfect to me, but I prefer the vintage look. Ymmv.
 

avsmusic1

Familiar Face
Messages
91
Location
United States
Thanks guys.
I thought about sizing up but I don't think I want extra space in the shoulders and I believe Alan said it was 2-2 1/2" in the chest. That seems like it would be too much, no? Especially if I choose to go with a simple liner instead of the quilted on. That said, I do want something that will still fit if I gain 10lbs.
 
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Damo

A-List Customer
Messages
467
Location
Canada
Good choice going with Alan and Johnson leather. I have a jacket from them and love it. Your right right about Alan, he's great to work with.

sounds like you know how you want it to fit. I agree with you, add an inch or 2 for length. Regarding chest size, it does look a little tight so maybe add an 1.5 inches. Wait looks good, shoulders look good. Do you know what weight of leather you want??
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,875
Location
East Java
to me the shoulder, sleeve, waist, and backpanel are spot on, probably longer kidney panel or curving, and slightly longer front or with a drop.
Personally I like the chest, look sporty when zipped up, and look trim when open which is probably most of the case since you're not riding...
 

Insomnia

One of the Regulars
Messages
211
Location
Germany
My 2 cents: Sleeves and shoulders are spot on. Add 2 inch for the length and 1 inch to the chest. When you choose a thinner lining that should be enough. If you add a inside pocket maybe 1-2 inch.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
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6,875
Location
East Java
also just my 2 cents, if you don't use it to ride probably that windflap behind the main zip probably could go for a sleeker look when unzipped.
 
Messages
16,855
Guys, it's really too tight. Check out the first photo, the jacket is pulling on itself just about everywhere. This isn't a racing jacket, it's a style that's not meant to be worn this trim.
This is a good fit for this style:
Some may argue it's too large, but I think it looks just the way these jacket's supposed to fit. M200 just isn't meant to be a trim fitting jacket.
 

avsmusic1

Familiar Face
Messages
91
Location
United States
Assuming losing the quilted liner would free up 1/2" I'm starting to think the following adjustments
+1.5" in body length
+.5" in chest
+1" in bottom (I know the pics don't show it well but the stomach is pretty taught. If I raise my arms and it rides up, its taught enough to stay there when I put my arms back down. Also, I think the extra length may require the bottom hem to have space to accommodate the top of my hips.)
 

avsmusic1

Familiar Face
Messages
91
Location
United States
I'm with you monitor. I'm looking for a body fit closer to the one in the pic you posted. Maybe slightly more fitted, but certainly closer to that than my 1st pic.
 

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