If it doesn't fit HERE...and HERE...it doesn't fit

[Fletch]

After having a leisurely spin thru the photo gallery at the Vintage Leather Jacket forum, I think I understand better what gents mean when they speak of the quality of fit – call it "trim", "classic," "military," or that much used and abused term "authentic" – they look for in the Type A-2 flight jacket.

This is a quality much desired but seldom defined. It does not necessarily mean a jacket that fits you like a sausage casing, with not a ripple or buckle anywhere (unless that is what you want, of course). It comes down to 2 key things:

1. The shoulders better be close to your natural shoulder width, or at best no more than 1" too big on either side. If it makes you look round-shouldered, it's a dead giveaway for that "sloppy," "modern," "outerwear" fit everybody grumbles about.

2. The upper sleeves better not be drastically wider than the lower sleeves. They have to look like suit or shirt sleeves. If they look like pastry nozzles or down parka sleeves, once again: dead giveaway.

Aircrewmen back in the day who traded and finagled for their scarce A-2s might have any old fit from scrawny-snug to hanging off 'em in shrouds – but almost always both 1. and 2. applied. So these, I think, must be the absolute deal breakers for a classic fit.

And another thing, fellas. Go ahead and unfasten those collar snaps. No one did it then and you'll be more comfortable.

 

[greyhound68]

I have to agree with you. Shoulder fit is really important if it doesn't fit there it just does not look right. Also agree with unsnaping the collar snaps. Lastly the fit under the armpits is very important. Too tight and I don't care how the jacket looks it is just uncomfortable.

 

[A2_Junkie]

1. The shoulders better be close to your natural shoulder width, or at best no more than 1" too big on either side. If it makes you look round-shouldered, it's a dead giveaway for that "sloppy," "modern," "outerwear" fit everybody grumbles about.

2. The upper sleeves better not be drastically wider than the lower sleeves. They have to look like suit or shirt sleeves. If they look like pastry nozzles or down parka sleeves, once again: dead giveaway.

Aircrewmen back in the day who traded and finagled for their scarce A-2s might have any old fit from scrawny-snug to hanging off 'em in shrouds – but almost always both 1. and 2. applied. So these, I think, must be the absolute deal breakers for a classic fit.

While I agree that Rules 1 and 2 may be "ideal", I'm not sure that I agree that most aircrew achieved that goal. I often come across photos of aircrew (ie. those who were issued the A-2) who don't have the best fit. My guess is that you more or less got what was issued. It would be interesting to ask a vet how much flexibility they had with selecting a jacket.

Anyway, take a look at this link to the photos of the Doolittle Raider crews. Flip through each crew - many have the fit you describe, some don't:

http://www.doolittletokyoraiders.com/doolittle_crew01.htm

-Peter
(who sometimes buttons his collar and sometimes doesn't) ;-)

 

[Feraud]

And another thing, fellas. Go ahead and unfasten those collar snaps. No one did it then and you'll be more comfortable.

I never keep the collar snapped down. Just a personal quirk.

Regarding a leather jacket fit, I agree shoulder fit is important. In the photos from the Doolittle site, I notice a certain variety of fits but have yet to see a dreaded "modern shoulder". Walk down a city street and look for men wearing leather jackets. The shoulder seam practically meets the tricep muscles and the bottom of the sleeve is 3-4" off their hand!
That is the horror of the modern shoulder fit.

It appears the airmen of old received what they were issued and dealt with it. All things considered, they were a sharp dressed lot.

 

[Paisley]

Very young airmen might not have been finished growing when they received their jackets. I saw this when I worked at the Air Force Academy: suit jackets fit the freshmen, but were rather snug on the seniors.

Some of the other airmen might have lost some weight in the service.

 

[Fletch]

Those Doolittle Raider pics are too teeny for me to get much out of them.

 

[Fletch]

How to make it fit better

Wash and dry it. What? No really. (Read carefully if you want to do this.)

The guinea pig (guinea horse actually) was my Cockpit horsehide A-2 limited edition with all cotton lining, wool cuffs, stamps 'n'at. Also a 51" chest at size 44, hip-hop shoulders & sleeves and little grain variation.

Front - Before & After

Back - Before & After

I washed it zipped-up, with two big bathsheet-size towels, in cold water, gentle cycle, NO soap. I tried it on wet: no shrinkage.

Then the drying regimen. I tried low heat first, still zipped up and with towels. Tried it on every 10 min. No shrinkage, not much dryage.

Upped heat to high. Kept trying on every 10 min, stretching sleeves to keep their length. Also mooshed collar and pocket flaps to my taste (you can get the flaps to "scallop" slightly).

All in all, it took 35 min for the wash and about 70 for the dry. Stayed by the dryer in case smoke came out or anything. None did.

Measurements for tag size 44:
Chest 51" before, 48 1/2" after
Shoulders 22" before, 21 1/4" after
Sleeves 26" before, 25" after
Back length 26" before, 24 3/4" after

I now have a better fitting jacket that will still take light layering and has more variation in the grain and finish. Most importantly, it feels a lot realer to me, more like something one might have worn flying a plane long ago - and that's what I wanted.

Some small finish loss occurred, revealing dull pink undercoating in 8-10 spots, none larger than a shirt button, most much smaller. I polished these spots with Meltonian #120 brown creme but they're still slightly red. I may go over them in Meltonian #2 black.

I disclaim responsibility for your results – wouldn't try this with that $700 Aero repro - but try it on a bloopy beater sometime.