How much room in the chest?

[Damo]

How much room do you guys prefer in the chest? 1,2,3,4 inches???

I'm sure it depends on layering but are there general rules like...

1 inch above actual chest measurement = no way, too tight??
2 inches = still too tight??
3 inches = good for layering??
4 inches = starting to be too baggy??
and so on...

 

[handymike]

3 for a snug fit, 4 for a regular (layering) fit.

 

[Dinerman]

The standard drop for jackets is 4 inches, for coats is 6 inches. Even on vintage size tags, this generally holds true.

 

[wdw]

For me, 4" for a snug non-layered fit, 6" for a more relaxed or layering look.

In Aero language, that means my 38" Dustbowl and 40" Work Coat are snug, and my 38" Stockmans, 40" Maxwell, 38" Wool HB and 42" Irvin are relaxed. That just shows how tag size alone doesn't tell the whole story.

 

[ykurtz]

Chest size alone doesn't determine snugness. Shoulder seam to shoulder seam can have a big impact on perceived snugness. I have one jacket that's 18" shoulder to shoulder with a 22" P2P for the chest which feels incredibly snug. My other jackets are 19"-19.5" shoulder to shoulder and 22" P2P: they feel perfect.

 

[Peacoat]

In my experience the stated chest size is a fantasy of the manufacturer. I go by the p2p measurement.

I have a 42" chest and find that a p2p of 23 to 24" in the heavier leathers--3.5 to 4+ oz.--gives a comfortable fit for me. These measurements came from an Aero Sheene, 3.0 oz., and a Johnson Leathers jacket, 4+ oz.

I also measured a lighter weight Goodwear at probably 2.5 oz. That is a comfortable fit at 22" p2p. These jackets have stated chest sizes of 44 and 46. Now I don't like to feel restricted in the chest, so I may like a little more room than some of you. I could wear a sweater with these jackets, but it would be a tight fit,bordering on uncomfortable for me. As Ykurtz says above, shoulder measurement can be a factor as well.

As a comparison, a snug fit in a peacoat for me with a 42" chest has a p2p of 21.25". This would be a size 40. There is no room for layering at this p2p.

 

[Fanch]

IMO this has the makings of a pretty good discussion. As others have pointed out, the P2P measurement relates only to the snugness or looseness through chest, and other parameters have to be considered, including shoulders (binding in the shoulders if too tight or drooping past the shoulders if too loose), waist/torso, and sleeves . All in all it is a daunting task to find that perfect fit.

 

[Damo]

Chest size alone doesn't determine snugness. Shoulder seam to shoulder seam can have a big impact on perceived snugness. I have one jacket that's 18" shoulder to shoulder with a 22" P2P for the chest which feels incredibly snug. My other jackets are 19"-19.5" shoulder to shoulder and 22" P2P: they feel perfect.

Yes great info, i forgot to take into account cross the shoulder..

 

[handymike]

My shoulders measure 17.5" across and so does my jacket.

 

[Monitor]

All I know is that I am 43" around chest, and Aero CR and J106 in size 40 fit me very snug, but fine.

 

[Peacoat]

IMO this has the makings of a pretty good discussion. As others have pointed out, the P2P measurement relates only to the snugness or looseness through chest, and other parameters have to be considered, including shoulders (binding in the shoulders if too tight or drooping past the shoulders if too loose), waist/torso, and sleeves . All in all it is a daunting task to find that perfect fit.

Those of us with the same proportions that the model is built on, don't have to worry too much about anything other than the p2p. The shoulders and sleeve length are almost spot on if I can get the correct p2p. Occasionally I might have to add an inch to the sleeves.

The only jacket I have that was a bit tight in the shoulders is the Goodwear A-2. After breaking it in for a month or so, it fits just fine. Wore it on an errand just now, and it is a good fit all over.

Now, if I were as long as Fanch, it would be a daunting task to get all the moving parts together in the right combination for a good fit.

 

[bretron]

4.5 drop is my magic number

 

[Timsum]

Not forgetting the diameter of the arm holes. The higher the arm holes are cut, the tighter for the shoulder movements and the lifting of the arms.

 

[Damo]

I was really hoping to find that perfect fit in one jacket and then have it as my one and only leather jacket. Oh wait did I confuse this thread with another one? :eusa_doh:

Seriously tho, I didn't think of the shoulder to shoulder, sleeves and waist/torso. I'm making rookie mistakes all over the place. I keep on learning new things from you guys, thx. I am trying to find a off the rack jacket that perfectly fits but when I check size charts there always seems to be one or 2 areas that are off. It looks like one can get away with a slightly smaller shoulder to shoulder measurement (or maybe others) but is this only if the other areas are a bit loose to compensate and/or the leather isn't thick?

I would really like to own jackets from several makers however is this realistic if they don't fit quite the way I want them to without alterations. I know there are the custom routes through johnson, insurrection, langlitz etc... however I feel like they are also much more expensive (except johnson). Maybe I'm just being too critical or cheap. I've said it before and I'll say it again I really wish there was the ultimate leather jacket store that carried all the brands and the styles I want so I could try them on in person. But I guess some would say this wouldn't be much fun...

 

[handymike]

I hear you Damo! I've tried quite a few (Himel @ Self Edge/ RMC @ Green & Blue/ Aeros from ebay) Finally I went with Goodwear.....In the end, I got the right fit but It took some doing.

 

[bretron]

It's taken me about 20+ jackets to figure the fit out!!!

 

[Timsum]

I was really hoping to find that perfect fit in one jacket and then have it as my one and only leather jacket. Oh wait did I confuse this thread with another one? :eusa_doh:

Seriously tho, I didn't think of the shoulder to shoulder, sleeves and waist/torso. I'm making rookie mistakes all over the place. I keep on learning new things from you guys, thx. I am trying to find a off the rack jacket that perfectly fits but when I check size charts there always seems to be one or 2 areas that are off. It looks like one can get away with a slightly smaller shoulder to shoulder measurement (or maybe others) but is this only if the other areas are a bit loose to compensate and/or the leather isn't thick?

I would really like to own jackets from several makers however is this realistic if they don't fit quite the way I want them to without alterations. I know there are the custom routes through johnson, insurrection, langlitz etc... however I feel like they are also much more expensive (except johnson). Maybe I'm just being too critical or cheap. I've said it before and I'll say it again I really wish there was the ultimate leather jacket store that carried all the brands and the styles I want so I could try them on in person. But I guess some would say this wouldn't be much fun...

Hi Damo,

There's no need to spend all the money just to get the correct fit. I have the same fitting problems as my body proportions are not your regular off the rack sizing. That said, many of the top makers (LW, Aero, Johnson) will work you with to get a good fit for the jacket that you purchase.

For LW, I provide my chest, waist, arm (sleeve) length, shoulder width, height and weight to Stuart. He recommended me a size and said that he will make the jacket to fit. All my LW jackets fit like gloves out of the box.

For Aero, I spoke with them over the phone, asked for the jacket measurements and provide my own. Bought one off the Sale page and bingo, it's a great snug fit.

I understand Johnson Leathers will make you a fit jacket in cotton. You wear it, take a few photos and email it to them and they will make adjustments before making the actual one in leather.

The key to minimizing fit errors is to work with these top makers as opposed to buying it off-the-rack from a website. Paying a little more for these top jackets if within budget is likely to cost less than buying a few to get the correct fit.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

 

[Peacoat]

I would really like to own jackets from several makers however is this realistic if they don't fit quite the way I want them to without alterations. I know there are the custom routes through johnson, insurrection, langlitz etc... however I feel like they are also much more expensive (except johnson). Maybe I'm just being too critical or cheap. I've said it before and I'll say it again I really wish there was the ultimate leather jacket store that carried all the brands and the styles I want so I could try them on in person. But I guess some would say this wouldn't be much fun...

My last Johnson in the heavy steer--4 oz.--was north of $700, and there were few if any fit alterations. My body type is the same as the model the jackets are built on. I did have a few other minor alterations, but those didn't really alter the price. Alan didn't even charge for the inside pocket pistol holster. So, I wouldn't say Johnson is inexpensive. But compared to Goodwear, Aero and some others, I understand what you are saying.

As to your comment about the ultimate leather store that carries all the brands and styles you wanted, a close approximation would be to go through Wade/Carrie in Seattle. Don't know what part of Canada you are from, and I don't know how customs would alter the picture, but going through them is the next best thing to actually going in the store. They will send you a fit jacket in whatever manufacturer you are interested--and that they carry--and you go from there. Of course Alan at Johnson Leathers will do the same thing, as well as John Chapman. That is the only way I will buy a custom high end leather jacket in the future. Of the high end leather jackets in my collection, the five I have that were sized using test jackets, give me the best fit of any of my custom leather jackets.

I'm not a shill for Insurrection, but Wade and Carrie are really good at fitting based on pictures and measurements from the jacket they send out. I have had good results with their system of sizing.

Good luck in your quest. PC

 

[Seb Lucas]

In my experience once a person knows their key numbers - pit to pit, back length, sleeve, shoulders, you don't even need to try a jacket on as it is almost impossible to get a jacket that doesn't fit. Of course that won't tell you if the jacket looks right or if the leather is user friendly but you know what I mean. I have bought my last 6 or so jackets that way.

 

[A-1]

From amateur to amateur:
It took me quite a while (half a year) to figure out my measurements for my one and only leather jacket. I simply took the measurements from some of my best fitting jackets and did some tweaks in length and p2p. It also depends on what kind of fit you want. I desired a snug fit. You can see some fit pics here:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...om-Aeronaut-In-Russet-Liberty-Horsehide/page3

They were taken one or two days in, it doesn’t look as snug anymore. I still think I could’ve gone a little shorter but that’s just my personal preference.

My actual chest is 41” and I took a 44.5” p2p in the jacket. Maybe 45” would be perfect but I can fit a very thick sweater underneath it now after some wear. And I can still wear it with a t-shirt without it looking baggy (that was important to me). The shoulders, IMO, are spot on. I’m 18.5” and that’s what I took.

I hope that helps a little.

I’m still very pleased with the jacket and think it’s perfect for me, not having the desire getting another one.

Listen to the others here, they really know what they’re doing! I started off with a desired p2p of 21.5”. That would have ended awful...