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Help with 30s style made to measure suit

jamesmac1801

One of the Regulars
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100
Location
California
Next month I will be getting a made to measure suit and I want so go with a 30s style . I want to go with a single breasted 3 piece suit, 3 button , peaked lapel . I'm thinking for pattern either a gray or blue chalk stripe or a blue glenplaid. Whichever is available . What would I tell the tailor to try to get the shoulders and overall fit correct ?


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GHT

I'll Lock Up
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9,775
Location
New Forest
What would I tell the tailor to try to get the shoulders and overall fit correct ?
If you are using a tailor who is used to making suits from the era, you won't have to tell him anything. He will have patterns that he will use to cut the material out and he will have all the ancillaries that go into the garment. And if he's worth his salt, he will probably have a vintage sewing machine on which he will make the suit.
You can, of course, look up styles on the internet, print off that which you want and ask your tailor if he can replicate it for you. Just out of curiosity, are you going for the pleated jacket with the half belt look?
 

jamesmac1801

One of the Regulars
Messages
100
Location
California
If you are using a tailor who is used to making suits from the era, you won't have to tell him anything. He will have patterns that he will use to cut the material out and he will have all the ancillaries that go into the garment. And if he's worth his salt, he will probably have a vintage sewing machine on which he will make the suit.
You can, of course, look up styles on the internet, print off that which you want and ask your tailor if he can replicate it for you. Just out of curiosity, are you going for the pleated jacket with the half belt look?

If he can do a belt back I'll ask him. When I brought my last suit in to be tailored he asked if I'd be interested in modeling a made to measure suit and I'd get it for free so of course I accepted . He said I can pick the fabric so I'll see how many features I can do. Also was wondering about pockets . I either want to go with no hip pocket flaps or with slanted hip pockets. I don't really know if those would look 30s though or make the suit look more 60s/70s?


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Last edited:

Patrick Hall

Practically Family
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541
Location
Houston, TX
Hacking pockets (slanted hip pockets) would be inappropriate on a suit with peak lapels, which indicate a more formal suit. I'd recommend jetted pockets sans flaps.

Also, see if your tailor can carry the lapel roll right into the top button, so that the lapel turns over right where the top button is. That's a common feature of 30s 3-button suits.
 

jamesmac1801

One of the Regulars
Messages
100
Location
California
This was after I bought it so excuse me not in a proper shirt and tieless .
e2f44fbe34f467ac66b275c584a01b34.jpg

4bc97a2f3fb526544e3fefa931fab69b.jpg



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Patrick Hall

Practically Family
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541
Location
Houston, TX
Looks great! Really love that fabric. Even though some coats in the 30's were cut short, I'd ask your tailor to amend any pattern he makes from that coat by adding some length to skirt, and shortening the sleeves. Short coat/low button stance isn't a great combo, and I suspect the bottom of that coat was altered at a later date. But the shoulders and the lapels are perfect.
 

jamesmac1801

One of the Regulars
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100
Location
California
Looks great! Really love that fabric. Even though some coats in the 30's were cut short, I'd ask your tailor to amend any pattern he makes from that coat by adding some length to skirt, and shortening the sleeves. Short coat/low button stance isn't a great combo, and I suspect the bottom of that coat was altered at a later date. But the shoulders and the lapels are perfect.

I was thinking the same thing especially since I wanna do a 3 button jacket .


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Evan Everhart

A-List Customer
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457
Location
Hollywood, California
So, how did the suit turn out? Was it satisfactory? What options did you end up going with? Have you posted any pictures as of yet? Please inform; inquiring minds of the Mond, want to know!
 
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jamesmac1801

One of the Regulars
Messages
100
Location
California
So, how did the suit turn out? Was it satisfactory? What options did you end up going with? Have you posted any pictures as of yet? Please inform; inquiring minds of the Mond, want to know!

Currently the suit isn't done yet I've spoken to the tailor and he wants to make a double breasted suit so I think it'll turn out well I'm not sure as to what patterns are available yet


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GBR

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288
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UK
I assume that all the detail including period style pockets (not to current pattern/presence) are planned?


How much longer will this suit take, seven months now!
 

jamesmac1801

One of the Regulars
Messages
100
Location
California
I assume that all the detail including period style pockets (not to current pattern/presence) are planned?


How much longer will this suit take, seven months now!

I still don't have that answer my tailor is kinda flaky I took a suit to be tailored by him and he said I'd be done in two weeks and it's been about two months


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