HELP newbs in pocession of 1930's suit, need advice on completing the look

[Cheesecakecutie]

Hi guys my man has just bought the most gorgeous 1930's suit ( so he matches me in my vintage threads). But He /we don't have a clue what to finish it off with...its gangster style 1930's black and grey wide pin stripe, needs braces we know that much, the trousers have turnups and are 10" wide at the hem....but what style shirt ? is there a particular style... tie ?? and what are the things guys wore on their arms called to keep shirt sleeves up ? And of course that essential detail the hat....What style hat would be most authentic with this style suit. Any help greatly received...we have a big nite out on 17th of febuary and want to get the look perfect

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Any shirt will work. Collar styles are as old as shirts themselves; they were all worn in the 1930s. (at least i have 30s shirts with all manner of different collar styles).

Those things are called arm garters and should only be worn if the shirt sleeves are in fact too long. Otherwise they're pointless. They are quite easy to source.

Problem with finding a tie is that modern ones are so d*mn long. Maybe cut one so it's shorter? Or get a vintage one. Whatever the case, the tie should not extend below the trousers waistband. Patterns were from the conservative to pretty wild in the 30s so pretty much anything goes.

frank kurtz

 

[Frederick Chook]

Thinking aloud here, personal style, all the usual disclaimers... here we go!

Shirt: You'll want French cuffs, of course - I don't know which paticular cut of cuff is period-appropriate (ie, square-edged, or round, or somewhere in between) but they all look fine, so just base it on whether he's a sharp, angular sort of guy or more curvy and friendly! Collar-wise, the classic English look is a spread collar - the spread-er the better, really, and with fairly small points.

Modern ties are longer than period ones, but for chaps like me who like a nice big tie knot, it works out about even. A pocket square is a good detail to add - colour should complement the colour of the tie and any other coloured details (shirt, cufflinks, socks if he's a royal fop,) you can usually just eyeball it.

There's quite a lot of hats that go with a suit (as opposed to a frock, morning, evening ensemble, etc.) A felt trilby is a dapper, casual, European look. A fedora (I'm making the distinction based on brim size and shape, which not everyone might agree with) says the same, but in a more rakish, American way. A bowler suggests everydayness, professionalism, matter-of-factness. A homburg is the most exciting option - it might make one look like an artist, or a politician, or a lord of business, or of crime - depending on what it's worn with. Be careful, you don't want him to try for 'tortured genius' and end up looking like a banker. Or vice versa.

 

[luvthatlulu]

Brooksie Recommends...

Currently, Polo Ralph Lauren has just the shirt in his "'Thompson' Black and White" line. It has a very vintage look with an off white collar and background with a closely spaced, narrow black pencil stripe. French cuffs. If you have a Dillards close by, try there. Currently on sale. (Would post pics if I could ever figure out how on this site!!!)

For the hat, I'd do a classic-styled fedora, of course...something in a Silver Belly or Silvermist with a Black or closely matched ribbon. Best bet--a custom Art Fawcett.

 

[Jovan]

If I'm correct the most period (or perhaps popular) look of French cuff is the single kind, like this. That's what I saw in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, anyhow.

 

[luvthatlulu]

Brooksie Recommends (Redux)...

Oops! I just realized you were located in the UK...probably won't find the Dillards there! Nevertheless, the PRL shirt I mentioned would look great because it is slightly faded, worn and a bit rumpled just like you might imagine a dead stock vintage shirt of the period.

Also, I advise losing the arm garters unless you want to look like a rube salesclerk. No self-respecting wiseguy would have been caught dead in anything less than a custom-fitted shirt and the arm garters (used to correct the length of an ill-fitted shirt) would have been superfluous. It sounds like you have an upscale suit of the period so--DRESS THE PART!!! Remember, it's OK to want to have everything "period"; but there has always been good and bad style associated with every decade.