1948 Howard Clothes Lampaka Ulster-type DB belted back overcoat, grey wool-alpaka-blend, quarterlined with turnback half-cuffs, dated Oct 1st 1948 on the back side of the 1939-49 Union label
$280.- shipped worldwide from Germany
Pics show coat laid on desk, with half of the lower back hanging down and invisible. All pics with flash, so the rayon liner appears much too shiny.
You may have seen ads for and labels of "the warmth without the weight"-overcoats. Well, this one isn't labeled as such but it clearly falls into this category; these fabrics were marketed with names such as Lampagora, Alpacuna, Lampaka, Alpacama etc.
They're not always what the name implies (note: lama=alpaka [!], angora=mohair), but from what I could find out about it, they're indeed wool blends with alpaka in them, and often mohair as well.
Despite the marketing slogan "the warmth without the weight" these coats were still made of a heavier weight fabric. I'd say it has the warmth of a heavy Greatcoat fabric, but the actual weight must be lower, but not by much.
This one feels like wool mixed with lots of alpaka, couldn't say about any other fibers it may have. It's a thick, almost bulky fabric with a soft surface - nowhere near as bulky as a teddy coat, but much more bulky than, say, the melton wool used for heavy military greatcoats. This thing is built like a tank and should outlast every one of us.
overall size estimated at 38
Measurements:
chest: 21.5"
shoulder (upper/ outer seam, not further below towards the shoulder blades): 18"
back length (neck seam to hem): 44"
sleeve: 25.2" (can be shortened by a competent alteration tailor in a manner that the result looks exactly like the original)
Silhouette:
The coat does have a waist suppression mainly due to the backbelt, but the silhouette is not like the early/mid 30s hourglass silhouette.
The chest and shoulder, in fact all the measurements are fine for my built, but the silhouette is clearly the wider-shouldered, comfortable fit of the latter half of the forties.
If you absolutely must have a narrow-looking shoulder, this coat isn't for you. If you like a comfortable fit that doesn't restrict you in any way, the late 40s silhouette could be your thing.
This collage may help you understand the silhouette of this coat compared to other cuts. I'm 5'8", 136 lbs, 37 chest.
- The Lampaka is on the far right.
- Starting from the left, #1 and #2: early 20s, narrow shoulder
- #3 and #4: early/mid 30s, narrow shoulder but with the shoulder seam running differently, plus hourglass cut
- #5: CC41, shoulders have more built-up and are beginning to get wider
- #6: the military-type CD Greatcoat, 1952
Specs:
- fabric is a darker grey with bits of lighter silvergrey hair in it
- sleeves have turnback cuffs, half-sided
- belted back has decorative buttons
- quarter-liner is rayon, eggplant colored, same as the piping
Condition:
Nearly flawless, only a few minor surface marks that are inconspicuous due to the thick fabric with its longer, interlocked hair. The liner is also flawless, even at the areas that are normally exposed to wear and tear (lower neck, armpits). The coat has been dry-cleaned and has no odours.
One repaired and practically invisible flaw only:
On the belted back, one of the buttons had been cracked in two pieces. Rather than replace all the original bottons, I repaired the cracked button with superglue. The coat has been through dry-cleaning since the repair was made, and the repaired button is still fine. All you see is a cracked line, there's no glue sticking out from under the crack.
$280.- shipped worldwide from Germany
As usual, I'm asking less than what I have into it. Any questions, just ask. PM me if you're interested.
$280.- shipped worldwide from Germany
Pics show coat laid on desk, with half of the lower back hanging down and invisible. All pics with flash, so the rayon liner appears much too shiny.
You may have seen ads for and labels of "the warmth without the weight"-overcoats. Well, this one isn't labeled as such but it clearly falls into this category; these fabrics were marketed with names such as Lampagora, Alpacuna, Lampaka, Alpacama etc.
They're not always what the name implies (note: lama=alpaka [!], angora=mohair), but from what I could find out about it, they're indeed wool blends with alpaka in them, and often mohair as well.
Despite the marketing slogan "the warmth without the weight" these coats were still made of a heavier weight fabric. I'd say it has the warmth of a heavy Greatcoat fabric, but the actual weight must be lower, but not by much.
This one feels like wool mixed with lots of alpaka, couldn't say about any other fibers it may have. It's a thick, almost bulky fabric with a soft surface - nowhere near as bulky as a teddy coat, but much more bulky than, say, the melton wool used for heavy military greatcoats. This thing is built like a tank and should outlast every one of us.
overall size estimated at 38
Measurements:
chest: 21.5"
shoulder (upper/ outer seam, not further below towards the shoulder blades): 18"
back length (neck seam to hem): 44"
sleeve: 25.2" (can be shortened by a competent alteration tailor in a manner that the result looks exactly like the original)
Silhouette:
The coat does have a waist suppression mainly due to the backbelt, but the silhouette is not like the early/mid 30s hourglass silhouette.
The chest and shoulder, in fact all the measurements are fine for my built, but the silhouette is clearly the wider-shouldered, comfortable fit of the latter half of the forties.
If you absolutely must have a narrow-looking shoulder, this coat isn't for you. If you like a comfortable fit that doesn't restrict you in any way, the late 40s silhouette could be your thing.
This collage may help you understand the silhouette of this coat compared to other cuts. I'm 5'8", 136 lbs, 37 chest.
- The Lampaka is on the far right.
- Starting from the left, #1 and #2: early 20s, narrow shoulder
- #3 and #4: early/mid 30s, narrow shoulder but with the shoulder seam running differently, plus hourglass cut
- #5: CC41, shoulders have more built-up and are beginning to get wider
- #6: the military-type CD Greatcoat, 1952
Specs:
- fabric is a darker grey with bits of lighter silvergrey hair in it
- sleeves have turnback cuffs, half-sided
- belted back has decorative buttons
- quarter-liner is rayon, eggplant colored, same as the piping
Condition:
Nearly flawless, only a few minor surface marks that are inconspicuous due to the thick fabric with its longer, interlocked hair. The liner is also flawless, even at the areas that are normally exposed to wear and tear (lower neck, armpits). The coat has been dry-cleaned and has no odours.
One repaired and practically invisible flaw only:
On the belted back, one of the buttons had been cracked in two pieces. Rather than replace all the original bottons, I repaired the cracked button with superglue. The coat has been through dry-cleaning since the repair was made, and the repaired button is still fine. All you see is a cracked line, there's no glue sticking out from under the crack.
$280.- shipped worldwide from Germany
As usual, I'm asking less than what I have into it. Any questions, just ask. PM me if you're interested.
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