Fitment across brands, Aero, Vance, Schott and size variances/nuances

[HMLFL]

New to the Fedora Lounge and interested in adding to my collection of Jackets. I do ride (Ducati Diavel/BMW Adventure) but looking mostly for casual wear in the Race Cafe type jackets. Short of measuring everything precisely, I wonder if anyone might have advice about how a size 40 translates into Aero, Vance, and Schott jackets. For example, I have a Schott 641HH in 42 (this is the slim cut model so wears like 40) that fits me very well. I'm wondering if this might be translated into a Aero RC/Board racer, or Vance Comet. Looking forward to your reply and guidance.

 

[Monitor]

Hello and welcome.

I'm a size 40 and that's what I wear in an Aero CR - although it fits me very slim.
As for Schott, I've tried on a 141 and a few older CR's of theirs and while I'd say they generally run true to size, Schott cafe racers are definitely roomier than an Aero Cafe Racer. Their jackets are just cut that way. Roomier sleeves, much less taper from chest to waist, etc.

 

[Guppy]

Not a bad question.

From what I gather, Aero size their jackets according to the way clothes used to be sized in the era their designs were new, eg the 30's through the late 50's. Which is to say closer fitting. That said, their sizing varies quite a lot between designs. And then they also customize fit for special orders, so you can't trust the tag size if you're buying secondhand -- you always need to refer to the actual measurements.

Schott has stayed current with sizing trends, meaning that a looser, more relaxed fit is to be expected with most of their jackets. I hear that they tend to be more generous in the midsection for guys with beer guts. But I also find that their special edition stuff is more fitted and flattering to an athletic figure.

Langlitz are made to measure, as well.

I think when you get down to it, there's no substitute for knowing your measurements, the jacket's measurements, and finally trying it on.

Short answer: it depends. Always try it on.

 

[ton312]

Boy that's a tough question to answer...so much depends on the hide and specific model jacket you are after and what kind of fit you want. I have long abandoned tag sizing. It bears very little, if any significance, on how the jacket will actually fit. I can wear anything from a 42" to 46" in Vanson, a 40" to 44" in Aero and a 40" to 46" in Schott's stuff. It just really depends on the model, the material and what kind of fit I'm after. Don't forget the liner too. Some liner materials can also have an impact on the fit.

 

[Psant25]

Great answers so far. Best to measure a jacket that fits you well (your schott) and compare to what you want taking into account leather thickness and liner as ton said. Most measurements for a given maker in whatever size can be found pretty easily online. Aero sale page can help if you are looking at pit to pit and shoulder for a given style and size.

Also, know that most makers measure different and that is very important. For example where and how the pit to pit is measured, sleeve, length, shoulder. Usually on the website they have a diagram or show it.

Even when you just submit measurements and trust a maker to get it right they may not to your liking. For me langlitz makes the shoulder and sleeve way to wide and long for my taste, even for riding, so I had to do a remake or two.

Good luck

 

[HMLFL]

Hi Monitor, Guppy, Ton312
Many thanks for your insightful guidance! Based on your collective counsel, I'm quickly coming to the conclusion that manufacturer 'size eg., 40, 42, 44, etc' is only ballpark and sometimes even with precise measurements, pit to pit, chest, etc., fitment can be off. There is no substitute for actually trying on the jacket. This being the case generally, are you almost always taking a chance of a sub-optimal fit with buying previously owned items on line? I'm guessing so. This would lead to buy, try, keep or resell activities....that is why there is a thriving secondary market for these things.....

 

[HMLFL]

Great answers so far. Best to measure a jacket that fits you well (your schott) and compare to what you want taking into account leather thickness and liner as ton said. Most measurements for a given maker in whatever size can be found pretty easily online. Aero sale page can help if you are looking at pit to pit and shoulder for a given style and size.

Also, know that most makers measure different and that is very important. For example where and how the pit to pit is measured, sleeve, length, shoulder. Usually on the website they have a diagram or show it.

Even when you just submit measurements and trust a maker to get it right they may not to your liking. For me langlitz makes the shoulder and sleeve way to wide and long for my taste, even for riding, so I had to do a remake or two.

Good luck

Thanks Psant25. Having to 'remake or two' even when you measured and ordered a customer item, must be painful! What happens, when a custom item doesn't fit - do you send it back for an adjustment at some charge?

 

[ton312]

Hi Monitor, Guppy, Ton312
Many thanks for your insightful guidance! Based on your collective counsel, I'm quickly coming to the conclusion that manufacturer 'size eg., 40, 42, 44, etc' is only ballpark and sometimes even with precise measurements, pit to pit, chest, etc., fitment can be off. There is no substitute for actually trying on the jacket. This being the case generally, are you almost always taking a chance of a sub-optimal fit with buying previously owned items on line? I'm guessing so. This would lead to buy, try, keep or resell activities....that is why there is a thriving secondary market for these things.....

You nailed it...If you're going to go the Aero or Vanson route and you are in the US, do yourself a favor and use Thurston Bros. fit jacket process. Especially if you are unsure. All failure points are eliminated with the try before you buy option they offer.

 

[Psant25]

Thanks Psant25. Having to 'remake or two' even when you measured and ordered a customer item, must be painful! What happens, when a custom item doesn't fit - do you send it back for an adjustment at some charge?

Well luckily with langlitz they do it all for free. Still a hassle

 

[Psant25]

You nailed it...If you're going to go the Aero or Vanson route and you are in the US, do yourself a favor and use Thurston Bros. fit jacket process. Especially if you are unsure. All failure points are eliminated with the try before you buy option they offer.

Agree with this ^ my Most recent one was direct from aero, but I have used thurston enough to know pretty well where I am at.

 

[Bfd70]

My limited experience is that the upper arms on Vanson are larger. This is likely purpose built for manuevering a bike. Comfortable but less fashionable. Easy to obtain these in stock 36,38,40 sizes. It seems evryone here typically gets their Aeros made to measure.

 

[HMLFL]

You nailed it...If you're going to go the Aero or Vanson route and you are in the US, do yourself a favor and use Thurston Bros. fit jacket process. Especially if you are unsure. All failure points are eliminated with the try before you buy option they offer.

Looks like a visit to Seattle is in order in the near term!! Thanks!

 

[HMLFL]

My limited experience is that the upper arms on Vanson are larger. This is likely purpose built for manuevering a bike. Comfortable but less fashionable. Easy to obtain these in stock 36,38,40 sizes. It seems evryone here typically gets their Aeros made to measure.

You are pointing out a minor but real challenge with Schott and Vance - large arms...a lot of leather. I ride generally with armored jackets since they afford protection agains impact much more so than say a Schott so I'm just looking for a great looking riding style jacket to knock around in.....

 

[Grayland]

You are pointing out a minor but real challenge with Schott and Vance - large arms...a lot of leather.

I've never owned Schott or Vanson, but large arms really mess up the look of a jacket in my eyes. One reason I like the Japanese jackets is that they generally have high armholes and slim sleeves. Makes the jacket look custom IMO.

A few years back, it was possible to get a slimmer sleeve on an Aero (and some Aero models have slim sleeves to start with). I had a Lost Worlds Ryder jacket. Great fit, great build, large arms. Keeps me away from LW.

 

[Seb Lucas]

You can't assess a jacket's size by size labels, only by the measurements.

I wear a side 38 or a 46, depending on the brand or pattern. Even within a certain brand the sizes will vary.

I need a 42 or a 44 in Vanson, for instance, depending on the pattern. In Aero, I need a 38 Highwayman or a 46 Board Racer.

I require a chest measurement of around 23 to 24 inches, 19 inch shoulders and 26 inch long sleeves. Back lengths are more subjective but I prefer 27 inches.

 

[HMLFL]

Thank you all for incredibly valuable knowledge that I will put to good use over the next weeks, months, and beyond. This could be a fun albeit expensive hobby!

 

[Guppy]

.that is why there is a thriving secondary market for these things.....

Yes.

Really, trying on the jacket is a minimum. To really know if it fits you well, you will need to try on maybe 100 jackets, and wear them for a few weeks at a minimum...

 

[HMLFL]

Guppy,

I know this will reveal my inexperience and naiveté in leather jackets, but I'll let her rip anyway. If I try on a jacket, let's say the Italian Horsehide (Vicenza), soft/pliable/medium duty and it fits well, what else will I learn over the next few weeks that I cannot ascertain right away? I can see with the championship grade leather and the really heavy/thick horse hides, it may be difficult to tell if the jacket will actually break in properly and fit right....(is this what you mean) or is there something deeper and not obvious to the average consumer?

 

[Peter Mackin]

You can't assess a jacket's size by size labels, only by the measurements.

I wear a side 38 or a 46, depending on the brand or pattern. Even within a certain brand the sizes will vary.

I need a 42 or a 44 in Vanson, for instance, depending on the pattern. In Aero, I need a 38 Highwayman or a 46 Board Racer.

I require a chest measurement of around 23 to 24 inches, 19 inch shoulders and 26 inch long sleeves. Back lengths are more subjective but I prefer 27 inches.

Seb ,,your measurements match my ideal sizing in all my jackets,,they are all sized from 40 to 46 depending on styles and maker..for reference I’m 5-9 and approx 185 lbs,,

 

[Grayland]

Yes.

Really, trying on the jacket is a minimum. To really know if it fits you well, you will need to try on maybe 100 jackets, and wear them for a few weeks at a minimum...

I know as soon as I take it out of the box and put it on. It either fits me or it doesn't fit me. I know what I like and what I'm looking for and can tell the first time I put it on whether or not the jacket works for me.