Fit advice for new member

[Damon141]

Hi everyone I just wanted to introduce myself to the forums and simultaneously ask advice on the fit of a jacket. This site has been a wealth of knowledge regarding leather jackets and I appreciate everyone that has come together and use their time to offer their wisdom.

So I had little knowledge of leather jackets before this site and have only purchased mainstream mall jackets and a Schott which at the time I thought was the best ever after mall quality jackets.

Recently picked up a Himel Bros Kensington and wanted to ask opinions on the fit. Bear with me I took these myself but tomorrow I will try to get better pictures taken by my wife.

Im a tough fit because I work out quite a bit and my weight can vary depending on diet and life getting in the way of the gym. The problem is I have a 45”-47” chest and never go beyond a 32”-33” waist which makes jackets seem too tight around the chest or too loose around the midsection.

I’m going to post pictures of the Himel and then the Schott which is their 654vn

 

[El Marro]

That Himel looks like a fine fit to me. I see that there is definitely some extra leather in the midsection but it does not look bad.
I must admit though that I am a fan of looser rather than tighter when it comes to my jackets and others here may offer different opinions based on their own style.

 

[Damon141]

Just wanted to post a couple pictures without a jacket so you understand that I’m top heavy, I’m only 5’10” 200-210lbs not very broad shouldered but by build makes it harder to find fit. I wish I was thinner abs leaner which seems to be the easiest to fit but I work out because I love food so it’s either get fat or eat a lot abs train hard abs turn some of that food into muscle

P.S. this last picture is just an image of how I imagined a perfect fit

 

[Damon141]

El Marro, it definitely could be worse I know I’ve seen it. I do wonder if it could be altered and brought in at the waist

 

[Canuck Panda]

With that body J100 board racer type jacket does not do you justice. A jacket with bigger chest to waist drop works better. American size Large (44) P2P 24" ish drops down to 21" ish hem, drop 6, then use the side buckles to take things in a bit more.
Any jacket with a similar back style like this one:

You can also alter your existing jackets to fit tighter at the waist. But if you fluctuate between two pant sizes, then a jacket with waist buckles goes a long way. Also considering comfort after a big dinner.

 

[Damon141]

Yes I was thinking like he same thing about a 21 inch hem. I don’t have the courage to pull off the look of the more elaborate jackets like double riders that naturally have such that feature although I do I’m admire them on others. I have seen a half belted cafe racer somewhere, maybe flathead?

I am scared to alter such an expensive jacket but I’m sure there are tailors with the experience.

I wondered if something like this could be added but it might make a great jacket look crazy

 

[Canuck Panda]

No, the snap tabs will just make two vertical creases that will make your back look like a balloon. If you have a trucker jacket, put that on and use the smallest snap setting and you will see what I mean. It cinches and puffs out at the same time.
Alterations are tricky, especially on an expensive jacket. There are ones that will fit you better, just have to look for them.
I would look for any tapered jackets with side gussets. It's always easier to add two D ring tab cinches at the sides than to full on tailor them to fit. Most half belts don't have that big of a drop like the moto jackets. Only the American brands and some UK brands will have the chest/waist you are looking for. Japanese brands make great jackets but from what I see they are usually less tapered.

 

[jglf]

That style of jacket doesn’t fit someone with a large chest to waist drop. It patterned more for a skinny guy. You need to get a jacket like the Vanson Oxford that has a sculpted back and cinch straps. I only have a 10in drop but you can see how this jacket fits me.

 

[Damon141]

That is a very nice fit, doesn’t flare out in the front and shows the v taper of your back.

 

[jglf]

That is a very nice fit, doesn’t flare out in the front and shows the v taper of your back.

You should reach out to Johnson Leathers in SF or Dena at Greatleather.com to see if they can slim your jacket in the bottom half to better meet your proportions.

 

[Damon141]

I’ve read a lot about Johnson leathers here on the board do you think that I should try him first?

Chest is 24” p2p
Waist is 23” across hem

I think it would make a world of difference if it could taper to 21.5”-22” at the bottom hem.
This was an extremely expensive purchase for me and I don’t or can’t just give up on it and order high end jacket if you know what I mean. A taper should be easy for a leather expert with the right equipment, I would imagine one of the easiest alterations

 

[Brandrea33]

Did you buy a bespoke from Himel or did you just order an OTR size?

Normally he nails the fit based on exact body dimensions and fit desired. No need to go through alterations elsewhere. Not saying yours doesn’t look good, because it does in my opinion.

 

[Damon141]

Bought it 2nd hand but only worn a few times (looks brand new) I could never afford his original price unfortunately. It’s wearable so not a complete loss just prefer it was tighter in the midsection. I just shot Himel Bros and Johnson Leathers an email to see if they could help.

 

[Damon141]

Bought it 2nd hand but un used. I could never afford his original price unfortunately. It’s wearable so not a complete loss just prefer it was tighter in the midsection. I just shot Himel Bros and Johnson Leathers an email to see if they could help.

 

[Brandrea33]

Bought it 2nd hand but un used. I could never afford his original price unfortunately. It’s wearable so not a complete loss just prefer it was tighter in the midsection. I just shot Himel Bros and Johnson Leathers an email to see if they could help.

I’m not sure if David would alter a preowned jacket as that’s not really what they are all about.

From my limited experience, buying preowned you have to accept that jackets may not fit exactly the way you want.

Last. I’ve also learned that you can spend a ton of money on bespoke and STILL not get it right If you don’t have a lot of jacket buying/wearing experience under your belt.

My advice is to focus on what pattern works best for your body type and then once you have that, go bespoke for the best fit.

 

[AbbaDatDeHat]

I think you’re a great candidate for a Cal crosszip should you go the vintage MC route.
Just an observation.
B

 

[Damon141]

Last. I’ve also learned that you can spend a ton of money on bespoke and STILL not get it right If you don’t have a lot of jacket buying/wearing experience under your belt.

I’m not sure if David would alter a preowned jacket as that’s not really what they are all about.

From my limited experience, buying preowned you have to accept that jackets may not fit exactly the way you want.

Last. I’ve also learned that you can spend a ton of money on bespoke and STILL not get it right If you don’t have a lot of jacket buying/wearing experience under your belt.

My advice is to focus on what pattern works best for your body type and then once you have that, go bespoke for the best fit.

I agree it’s pretty tough unless you are blessed enough to live close to one of these stores like standard and strange or self edge. But I think this experience taught me something about fit. I now know my ideal shoulder, p2p, and waist hem measurement for next time. So considering this is a like new jacket I might just put it on eBay since winter is over here in Florida anyways and try again

 

[Damon141]

I think you’re a great candidate for a Cal crosszip should you go the vintage MC route.
Just an observation.
B

I am definitely not cool enough to pull off that look though I admire that rockstar look of that famed jacket

 

[Bfd70]

Sorry, doesn’t look good. You just don’t have an off the rack body. Lots of custom makers across the price spectrum. I think 5* (who have there own thread here) is a very good price point for a custom project where you just dial in your fit. For about $1000 you can get 2 jackets in different patterns and see what works for you.. In the long run that will be cheaper than experimenting With high end brands and selling at a loss.

 

[Will Zach]

I’ve read a lot about Johnson leathers here on the board do you think that I should try him first?

Chest is 24” p2p
Waist is 23” across hem

I think it would make a world of difference if it could taper to 21.5”-22” at the bottom hem.
This was an extremely expensive purchase for me and I don’t or can’t just give up on it and order high end jacket if you know what I mean. A taper should be easy for a leather expert with the right equipment, I would imagine one of the easiest alterations

At 32-33" waist (measured at belly button, no clothes) you probably need a 19-20" hem on a jacket for a good fit. Other than vintage cross-zips which featured pretty insane shoulder-to-hem ratios, most jackets are patterned for an average guy, which you are not. Five Star or Johnson Leathers would be good bespoke options, the former being much cheaper, and pretty good. You can probably sell your Himel at a wash. It does not fit great.