Double-breasted suit buttons

[Visconde]

I'm thinking about getting a double breasted suit made this summer, so I've been doing some research for details and stuff.

What is the deal with those extra buttons? Personaly I prefer the 6-button with 2 working buttons. But I'm interested in the story behind all the extra buttons.

Anyone have any idea where this habbit of sewing on extra buttons comes from? And what are the "rules" on wearing these kind of suits?

With kind regards,

Visconde

 

[manton]

It's not that the extra buttons were added later. The original DBs buttoned all the way up. To "relax" the coat and make it cooler (temp-wise, not fashion-wise) and less military, the closure point and crossover were lowered, but the buttons kept for visual interest.

 

[Matt Deckard]

If you ever watch Reilley Ace of Spies (netflix it you'll love it) you'll see what Manton is talking about. The show is full of the high cut styles from the turn of last century.


Like with the jacket below they were once a row of functional buttons

When the style changed and people became a bit less into the high collar look the stance changed and some buttons were left behind.

Now both versions are wasting a row buttons buttons in favor of aesthetic balance (never to be buttoned, just for looks), but that's part of the charm of the Double Breasted.

 

[Visconde]

Interesting, and a very nice jacket you posted there. It's almost exactly how I want mine, the only thing I would change is the seam between the lapel and the collar. I think it should be equal in length to the peak, or smaller.

Another question for you guys: Does a double breasted suit need those 2 "buttonholes" on the lapels? And does a SB peak lapeled suit need 0, 1 or 2 of those?

thanks for all the quick answers

With kind regards,

Visconde

 

[Matt Deckard]

Today they are an affectation but it goes back to much earlier military roots where you could button your jacket all the way up closing your lapels.

like with the pea-coat here you could button the lapel closed but since the suit became more fashion and less utility the holes are no longer needed.

Neither lapel needs a hole (well the one on your left is needed if you want to put a flower through for decoration) but it is something that is noticeably missed if left out.

I suggest two holes like was more common in the past. If you are going to give into affectations go all the way.

 

[manton]

I think a DB needs two lapel buttonholes, SB -- whether peak or notch -- should have only one. Any fewer for either is a modernist, minimalist look.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I prefer 2 buttonholes for a DB. But i can't seem to find a vintage - 20s-40s - French or German (my favourites) suit that has one in each lapel. For some reason they all have just the left side boutonniere hole. [huh]

bk

 

[funneman]

I'm sure this has been covered before, but...

In recent vintage movies I've seen six and two, six and one and even four and one button combinations.

Can someone explain?

 

[Jovan]

Not sure what you're getting at. 6x2 is by far the most common, but other options existed.

I agree, get two lapel holes. It's "just one of those things" that looks correct.

 

[thunderw21]

In recent vintage movies I've seen six and two, six and one and even four and one button combinations.

Can someone explain?

Just different styles. Like Jovan said, 6x2 is the most common while many others are specialities, oddities or short-lived trends.
The 6x1 was not all that common during the Golden Era but made a comeback in the 1980s. Still a very classy look.

4x1 is also less common than a 6x2 but is a nice look. I've found that 4x1 was common on vintage dinner jackets like mine pictured below.

Recently I saw Elvis wearing a 6x3 in a movie (can't remember which one it was). I do occasionally like a nice 6x3. It's something out of the ordinary, makes an outfit 'pop'. It adds an early 1900s twist to a modern suit jacket.

Unfortunately this photo cut off the two bottom buttons. It is a 6x3.

 

[Bugsy]

Wonderful pictures as always, Thunder.

 

[funneman]

Thank you thunderw21

That's exactly what I was looking for and pictures to boot.