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DIY French Cycle Jacket (aka. Luftwaffe Jacket)

SpitfireIV

New in Town
Messages
38
Hi all!

First post here, but have been enjoying many of the threads and incredibly envious of many of the beautiful jackets on display here!

I've taken a recent interest in the French Cycle jacket, alternatively known as the 'Luftwaffe' jacket as of late.






(Bartender Edit: Photos removed at the request of the original owner.)

I must admit my early impressions of this style of jacket was formed way back having seen Battle of Britain and the stylish jackets the dashing young Luftwaffe were parading about in! :p A little research shows they may have taken liberties in the costume department! Anyway, I needed something to wear on those cool days in my own 'Spitfire' :)

smas7l.jpg


Looking about at reproductions (couldn't afford an original if one did come up!) I quickly determined that I wasn't going to find a decent replica in my price range either, despite that, many on offer didnt have the cut or fit of the original I believe, ie slim cut and sitting very high on the waiste.

So what does one do in this situation? Well, you try make your own.....right?

Having zero experience with tailoring but some little time on a sewing machine under my belt but certainly not afraid of a challenge or the opportunity to learn something new I set about finding a suitable donor jacket which I'd either butcher or turn into something fantastic!

I came up with a black half belt made by 'Chippie' in France, this one caught my attention as it was relatively cheap, reasonably plain and had the two (if somewhat low) slanted breast zipper pockets. Was in my size of course, small, 18 inch shoulder, 21 inch chest and 21.5 inch arm....perfect.

vzc2ue.jpg


25sboz8.jpg


2dbpi5i.jpg


Quality of the jacket isn't the greatest really, there seems to be a mish mash of hide thicknesses, but its weighty and has a beautiful old leather aroma off it. I'm guessing 60's vintage perhaps?

Given the low quality and that I couldn't find anything about the history of the jacket or maker I had no qualms about getting stuck in with a scissors....

2zphxft.jpg



To be continued...(it gets better, I promise ;-) )
 
Last edited by a moderator:

SpitfireIV

New in Town
Messages
38
To make life easier I picked up a bust with 'almost' the same measurements as myself ;-) Using this I was able to ascertain the appropriate lenght I required....

9i476b.jpg


So with a good idea on lenght I removed the zipper, belt sections and started chopping as per the image in the at the end of the first post!

I also established at this point the arms were a little too roomy, so they'd need to be taken in while I was at it, the zippers I removed from the lower two, now redundant, pockets I added to the sleeve cuffs to provide a snug fit around the wrist (needs finishing still)...

2v1u34w.jpg



The belt sections I removed earlier would be added to the base of the jacket eventually, ad such....

k38vmt.jpg


eq8lqv.jpg


Taking shape ;-)
 

Peacoat

*
Bartender
Messages
6,445
Location
South of Nashville
Better you with the scissors than me. Looks as if you are going in the right direction.

Cool car. I used to have a 1958 MG-A. Wish I still had it.

Welcome to the Lounge.
 

SpitfireIV

New in Town
Messages
38
Thanks guys! :)

I should add I'm doing this work on a 60's vintage Brother home sewing machine, so nothing fancy. I have a walking foot attachment fitted, leather needle and Gutermann thread. So far so good...

55mown.jpg


One of the main features of this jacket is the two flap pockets, with plenty of leather scraps left over I made up two flaps...

4smbux.jpg


Laying the flaps on and measuring for placement. I'm not sure yet if these pockets will be functional or just for show...

mrwqht.jpg



So this is how its looking now. The flap pockets really make a difference to the look! Next job is to refit the zipper and then sort the side slits so I can add adjuster straps with D rings to get a snug fit around the waist.

9as16q.jpg


2zzuo93.jpg
 

bn1966

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,108
Location
UK
Have had two 1500 Spitires myself :) more jacket pictures please...I have an ELC Ostmann & Hartmann, both in black...
 

Cocker

Practically Family
Messages
633
Location
Belgium
This thread is, in my opinion, epic! I have two left hands, with 5 thumbs on each, so to witness what you are doing with no tailoring experience is really amazing to me. the project looks really good, and seen there were numerous patterns of civilian jacket around, I think you're going to get pretty close to what an original would have been. I'll follow this closely!
 
Messages
17,490
Location
Chicago
This is nothing short of incredibly impressive....can't wait to see your finished product and the accompanying fit pics. I can barely sew a damn button back on a shirt. Very cool.
 

robrinay

One Too Many
Messages
1,490
Location
Sheffield UK
I’m impressed! I’ve bought a couple of nearly A1 style jackets and contemplated modifying them, only to later ‘bottle out’ and sell them untouched. You’ve given me the motivation to have a go next time I find something suitable.
 

SpitfireIV

New in Town
Messages
38
Thanks for all the positive comments guys, its much appreciated!! :) I must admit I was a bit apprehensive about posting here (ie the notion of chopping up a vintage leather jacket) but its all very reassuring.

Couple of fit pics, sorry about the quality, hard to get a decent pic under artificial light with just the phone, but, I hope they give a good idea. I've yet to refit the zipper, but it will close :)


x0utjt.jpg


14tov0p.jpg
 

Lord Flashheart

A-List Customer
Messages
398
Location
Victoria, Australia
That's a fine looking Spitfire mate. I've got a 69 MGB but have always been a wee bit envious of the way pretty much the whole fron end opens with the bonnet on a Spit, must make front brakes and everything else a doddle to fix.

Garry
 

SpitfireIV

New in Town
Messages
38
That's a fine looking Spitfire mate. I've got a 69 MGB but have always been a wee bit envious of the way pretty much the whole fron end opens with the bonnet on a Spit, must make front brakes and everything else a doddle to fix.

Garry

Cheers, I put a lot of work into that Spitfire! :) Would you believe this is how she looked almost four years ago now?!

dggg3r.jpg


So I'm not a stranger to hardship, hah. I'm find of the MGB too, it was a contender before I chanced upon the Spitty project. The clam shell bonnet is indeed a blessing, proved particularly handy when wiring up my Toyota engine conversion ;-)
 

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