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Current dress shirts with a vintage look?

Doublegun

Practically Family
Messages
773
Location
Michigan
Watched Casablanca tonight for the millionth time and for some reason I was drawn to the shirts worn by the male actors. I love the simple look of a white shirt with a straight point collar. So my question is which, if any, current manufacturer of dress shirts make dress shirts with a vintage style.

Thanks,

JDG
 

Shangas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,116
Location
Melbourne, Australia
I believe the style you're after is the "spearpoint" collar shirt. They were very common in the early 20th century.

I'm not aware of SPECIFIC makers, but I do know that there are shirts out there which still come with these collars. I guess it's just a process of hunting around.
 

Gin&Tonics

Practically Family
Messages
899
Location
The outer frontier
www.maxwellsclothiers.com

They do made-to-measure shirts in whatever fabric you wish, and with your choice of various collar and cuff types. Long spearpoint is one of the options they offer. I've ordered 3 shirts from them, so waiting to see how well they do. I'll definitely post about the clothes when they arrive.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,084
Location
London, UK
Run a search for spearpoint collars on the FL, you'll find a lot of threads. All the places I know are UK... The spearpoint collars are harder to find as they aren't commonly seen nowadays (I still hope for a revival). Typically you will have to go to a vintage repro place for that (though there is the Jantzen option - see the thread on HK Tailors for further details). Marc did a run of beautiful reproductions of an original Thirties shirt before he left the Lounge. They were beautiful, I'd have loved half a dozen, but I simply couldn't justify spending around GBP100 or so on one shirt.

Something to remember, though: while it often doesn't seem like it going by what is popular among the vintage community, there were other shirt collar styles available back in the day. I love the look of a spearpoint too - especially a floppy one with a pin - but you're not going "non-vintage style" by wearing something else either.
 

Metatron

One Too Many
Messages
1,536
Location
United Kingdom
I had a similar question, partly it's just a matter of 'if the look is classic, you can't go wrong'. One thing I am always looking for however is one of those 'casual' looking, airy white shirts that seem to have been a standard in the first half of the 20th century. A modern dress shirt, even 100% cotton looks too structured and formal. Something like the one worn by the chap in this movie:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yP8_ZVZ7WTM
Chinstrap and all. For a casual look, a bit more neutral than a chambray shirt, but also a bit more refined.

Was there even a distinction between a sporty and professional looking shirt, or was it simply a question of what you wore with it?
 

GHT

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,801
Location
New Forest
Run a search for spearpoint collars on the FL, you'll find a lot of threads. All the places I know are UK... The spearpoint collars are harder to find as they aren't commonly seen nowadays (I still hope for a revival). Typically you will have to go to a vintage repro place for that (though there is the Jantzen option - see the thread on HK Tailors for further details). Marc did a run of beautiful reproductions of an original Thirties shirt before he left the Lounge. They were beautiful, I'd have loved half a dozen, but I simply couldn't justify spending around GBP100 or so on one shirt.
You are not wrong, I have an original 1940's spearpoint collared, shirt. It's beautifully cut, but when I wear it with my new, but 1940's style three piece suit, it looks shabby, due to it's age, and the number of washes it's had. I bought a brand new one from The Darcy Shirt Co.
http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/shirts/spearpoint-collar-shirt-sh190.html The price plus collar stiffeners, plus the actual spear, plus tax, came within £100. The shirt, I could have made, although my wife would do a better job, but this was for a wedding and there just wasn't time.
Am I disappointed with it? Yes and No. Yes because it doesn't have the same standard of quality that my original 1940's shirt has. No, because, I make most of my shirts, and have come to expect inferior quality, off the peg these days.
Now that time is no longer a constraint, I have unpicked the collar and cuffs, inserted interface stiffening, and sewn it all back together. I am really pleased with it now. The cut is magnificent, I can tell that it has been singularly cut, instead of being put on a cutting machine where fifty panels are cut in one go, So the panels fit snugly and there's a sizeable overlap behind each seem, this allows for the garment to be let out if needs be. But the overall view, in my opinion, is it's not worth the money.
On my tailor's website is a pic of the suit, the shirt isn't that clear, you will need to scroll down to Robert Taylor.
http://www.rocacha.com/about_us.htm
 
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herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
A modern dress shirt, even 100% cotton looks too structured and formal. Was there even a distinction between a sporty and professional looking shirt, or was it simply a question of what you wore with it?

most modern dress shirts have too short and stiff a collar to look right with a casual outfit. original 30s-40s shirts have a longer soft collar which -when worn without a tie- has a rakish elegance which modern shirts don't. pure white is also rare in old shirts, and the fabric is richer; it doesn't have that 'thin,hard, clrisp' look that most modern shirts have (you can tell i don't think much of modern shirts can't you ?)

having said that there are a few modern shirts in the designer end which have a vintage feel; if you're willing to fork over big money for them. e.g. RRL, Margaret Howell, YMC.
 
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nihil

One of the Regulars
Messages
206
Location
Copenhagen
Quality costs money, and you can't expect your 2$ 50% polyester shirts to be of a decent quality.
My bespoke shirts are FAR superior to any vintage shirt I've yet come across.
A good tailor can make you exactly the shirt you want. But expect to pay well for it.
Good quality is good quality, then as now.
 

Luxire

Vendor
Messages
98
Location
Edison, NJ
We would be glad to make a shirt with the looks you desire, in quality that will leave no reason to complain.

We have a decent collection of high quality fabrics and our prices are just as pleasing too.

Start Here
 

Matt Crunk

One Too Many
Messages
1,029
Location
Muscle Shoals, Alabama
I would love to splurge on a few true bespoke shirts sometime, but recently in my weekly thrift store rounds I came across a cashe of Brooks Brothers dress shirts in various solids and stripes, 100% cotton, obviously all dumped by the same person who happened to be my exact size. I could not imagine a bespoke shirt fitting any better. Collar fit (17 1/2), sleeve length, and body fit all seem perfect. Best of all I scored them for $2.00 each.
 
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Anthony Jordan

Practically Family
Messages
674
Location
South Wales, U.K.
I am quite happy wearing my English semi-spread collars (mostly on T.M. Lewin and Charles Tyrwhitt shirts) with vintage attire, but another possibility worthy of considerationis to branch out into tunic shirts and wear them with either vintage soft turndown collars or reproductions of the same - eBay is a source for the former and I think that Darcy Clothing may be a source for the latter.
 

Flat Foot Floey

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,220
Location
Germany
Just read the thread about Spear point collar shirts. I have very good ones from Vecona and cheap ones from Signum. More info in the thread above. I would try the Revamp,Jantzen or RRL shirts if I had the budget and need for new shirts now.
The collar is important for me. I sometimes buy work shirts with "normal" collars, but never dress shirts with spread collars. I only have 1 single button down and it was a 3€ thrift store find from Ralph Lauren.
 
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Chasseur

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,494
Location
Hawaii
I have pretty good luck cruising the RL and BB factory stores for the closeout sales when things are 60-80% off. You can often find the nicer line items in those sections and not only the cheap stuff made for the outlet store. Once I find shirt styles and sizes I like I then hit ebay for the specific model/line/etc. with saved ebay searches.
 

Monte

Practically Family
Messages
602
Location
North Dakota
I would love to splurge on a few true bespoke shirts sometime, but recently in my weekly thrift store rounds I came across a cashe of Brooks Brothers dress shirts in various solids and stripes, 100% cotton, obviously all dumped by the same person who happened to be my exact size. I could not imagine a bespoke shirt fitting any better. Collar fit (17 1/2), sleeve length, and body fit all seem perfect. Best of all I scored them for $2.00 each.

Ha ha...Quality can be found without paying a small fortune. I had a similar find of perfectly fitting shirts and I am more than happy
to pay $10 for a solid shirt that is just their to create some contrast with my suit and tie. One of the white shirts with gray checks
does have a small collar that doesn't go well with a sport coat so I'll wear it on days when a jacket's not required.
 

LoveMyHats2

I’ll Lock Up.
Messages
5,196
Location
Michigan
Some off the rack Versace brand have spear point collars. I have seen a few other new shirts made by other off the rack clothing makers that still have spear point collars, just cannot recall the brand name?

I am going to agree that a good quality shirt is not really cheap, however, one of my all time favorite dress shirts (white) were from Town Craft, (J.C. Penny) which from what I know, they no longer make them, the brand has gone down the tubes.

My best (my opinion) shirts I own are Lorenzini, Zegna, Oxxford.
 

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