Cracking on boot — issue or no?

[Jonanah]

Hi folks, I am seeking advice about this pair of Standard and Strange x Wesco Axe Breakers. There’s some cracking in the leather on one side, from normal use. It’s on the side that was grainy and mismatched when I received the pair. The other side is smooth and has no cracking. There is also a small fissure at the base of the cap toe.

Should any of this be cause for concern? Is there anything I can do to mitigate the cracking issue? I am wondering if applying more conditioner would help, though I’m wary of over-conditioning. However, I work outside and often wear these boots, so it isn’t too much of a concern as I also need them to be as water resistant as possible.

Thanks!

 

[Monitor]

They cooked.

 

[Jonanah]

They cooked.

As in they’re going to fall apart? What do I do, reach out to Wesco? These boots are young

 

[Jonanah]

Is this the infamous “loose grain” folks talk about?

From Stitchdown:

Loose Grain” Definitely Isn’t Good—But It Also Might Not Mean What You Think

“‘Loose grain’ has become this dog whistle for any folding or creasing of the leather,” says Neil, describing an issue that in its true form is defined as the grain level of the skin separating from the tissue of the hide. “It feels like air pockets and is very apparent on a cutting table,” says Jason. “It’s always easy to discover and by default cut around in production, and discard. It very rarely hides itself before a shoe is lasted, and it’s a rare mistake when it gets cut and used.”

“But true loose grain is not very common, and actually quite rare,” says Neil. “I’ve only seen it on a handful of pairs out of thousands.”

“We’re hearing a lot of ‘loose grain’ talk, which is often confused with grain break,” says Jason. “Grain break sounds bad, but isn’t—it’s a natural characteristic in the hide. Grain break is just where the grain goes from peak to the valley of a hide, and where it is breaking “off the plane” rather than being broken.”

Almost definitely grain break on CXL, and not loose grain

As stated in an above section, creases or grain break in the leather of any non-shell cordovan shoe are just a fact of shoe life. Leather is the skin of an animal, and it wasn’t designed to look perfect on your shoes. And shoes can crease (often in places you might not want them to) for all sorts of reasons aside from leather quality—perhaps most notably, because you’re not wearing the proper size, and therefore, the way the shoe was designed doesn’t align with how it’s actually being worn. I’ve made the shout-loose-grain mistake myself before; I’ve also updated what I’ve written in the past after learning what I did while reporting this story.

“Loose grain will crack, as there is not the tissue below to support the grain, and definitely a quality issue,” Jason says. “However, these two terms are often confused and not nearly the same thing. I’ve seen literally thousands of boots at this level from well over a dozen tanneries, and I’ve probably seen maybe two pairs that passed QC from our makers that had loose grain.”

As with all of these issues, loose grain does indeed exist. But quality tanneries and shoemakers will both catch hides that display it, and do their best to ensure that it doesn’t end up on your shoes. If you’re certain you were unlucky enough to be on the receiving end of one of those instances, then you probably deserve a brand new pair of shoes. But do what you can to be sure you’re right—and be careful not to perpetuate the myth of loose grain just because you’re seeing some creases.

 

[Monitor]

As in they’re going to fall apart? What do I do, reach out to Wesco? These boots are young

Their lifespan will be shorter. The cracks will definitely spread and dirt, moisture & grime that'd normally stick to the surface of the leather will now get inside...

Most importantly, don't go anywhere near them with that disgusting slob that's being peddled as "leather conditioner". It'll just harm the leather.

If you can, reach out to Wesco immediately and have them send a replacement. It should be obvious to them these have cracked on their own.

All this loose grain whatever talk is useless. Some leather will crack, most won't. It's not Wesco's fault. They couldn't have predicted it. The boots were just fine when they shipped them out but regardless, this ought to expect this sort of thing might happen on a small number of pairs since this is exactly the kind of risk that working with leather involves.

But anyway, talk to them. Show them these pics. I'm sure they'll sort you out.

 

[dannyk]

While @Monitor is probably correct one quick question. These are tea core aren’t they? How deep are these cracks and can you tell if it’s entering the actual leather? Some tea core leather is dyed over top, not though the leather in any manner. Sometimes it’s painted on. And sometimes depending on chemicals and weather can cause the top coat to become almost like a layer over the leather and then that cracks but the leather underneath is actually fine. Don’t harm the boots but this may be a case of something effecting the black overcoat and the brown leather under is actually fine. Poke around gently to see. If it’s down through the leather then Monitor is spot on you’re not saving them or doing anything to them. It’s an issue Wesco would have to fix. As in get you a new pair.

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

These cracks are definitely not normal, right on the logo too lol...
send them back and don't bother with conditioning - it won't magically reseal these cracks

 

[Jonanah]

Thank you both for your insights. It seems to be a crack through the full topcoat as you describe @dannyk , that stops once it gets to the undyed leather beneath. Deep enough to easily stop a fingernail running over it. Not sure how catastrophic a failure that is, but it does seem it would leave the leather vulnerable as @Monitor described.

I work right across the river from Standard and Strange in SoHo, so I think I’ll just make the trip over there and see what they say.

I am the second owner of these boots — if it is indeed something that Wesco should replace, will they still honor that? I got them in nearly new condition only about four months ago.

 

[Jonanah]

These cracks are definitely not normal, right on the logo too lol...
send them back and don't bother with conditioning - it won't magically reseal these cracks

View attachment 680896

Yeah, I’ve handled teacore leather jackets with some chips in the topcoat and this feels different. Zoomed in like that you can really see

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

Yeah, I’ve handled teacore leather jackets with some chips in the topcoat and this feels different. Zoomed in like that you can really see

That's definitely not teacoring - you shouldn't be able to make out that kind of depth just for the topcoat chipping off. As you move in those boots and apply pressure to that area, those cracks are only going to get worse.

 

[photo2u]

Clean very thoroughly around all the cracked area with just water (damp cloth). After it is dry, use quality glue (shoe sole type) By using a thin sewing needle, make sure the glue goes into the cracks well. Make sure that you lay the repaired area flat and place something heave like a pot with something heavy inside the pot. If you have access to the crack from the other back side of the leather, a thin leather patch can be applied to prevent further cracking spreading.

 

[Monitor]

I am the second owner of these boots — if it is indeed something that Wesco should replace, will they still honor that? I got them in nearly new condition only about four months ago.

Well... That I doubt. But regardless, worth asking.

If they refuse, which they might, the only thing you can do is to fill & seal the holes with the so called leather cement. This should hold the cracks together and prevent them from further cracking or at least slow it down plus dirt won't be able to get inside the fibers of the leather.

Done right, the cracks might altogether be completely invisible. Leather cement is just rubber glue so any kind of non-reactive glue will do the trick but best to invest into something designed for leather.

EDIT: This won't prevent other cracks from forming so repeat the process if needed.

 

[photo2u]

After the repair has time to properly cure, clean and condition the boots.

 

[Canuck Panda]

flesh showing is never great. moisture can get into the fibers more easily in those weaker spots than other areas where the top coat is still intact, and there will always be some kind of wet/dry imbalance...

it also looks like the cracks are happening where the tooled branding and the front toe where it might got too much pull from lasting. some type of sealing can probably prolong the life of the boot by acting as a barrier for keeping moisture out. it's like those cracks on the asphalt, if you don't seal them up the moisture will get in and if not dried properly the small cracks becomes bigger and then pot hole... Maybe your seller can replace it under warranty or at least give you some kind of sealant product that will close it up.

 

[Will Zach]

I would first write to Wesco, with pics. Best write the owner or CEO directly if you can find them. Explain the situation, be super respectful, say you bought these because of Wesco quality, and you use them for work in wet conditions, hence the cracks are concerning. If they question the fact that you bought these second hand, say that they were almost new and used was all you could afford.
If this fails, do what @photo2u and @Monitor say. I would buy contact cement (basically a rubber compound dissolved in a solvent), and with a tip of a needle stuff it in the cracks. Don't worry if it overflows a little, just wipe excess off. Let it dry overnight. Dried contact cement will stay in those cracks forever and provide some protection. I would then apply some Kiwi black liquid leather polish. If you do it right, the repair will be almost invisible.

 

[dannyk]

That's definitely not teacoring - you shouldn't be able to make out that kind of depth just for the topcoat chipping off. As you move in those boots and apply pressure to that area, those cracks are only going to get worse.

No not normal. That’s why I said I’ve seen it when topcoats get exposed to certain chemicals or like freezing temps. It shouldn’t happen to any topcoat. Some chipping or cracks happen but not that deep or big unless again something happened to them. But if you’re the second owner who knows that may be the case. They may have had something spilled on them. Or they lived somewhere super cold and snowy so the top coat was repeatedly frozen then thawed and exposed to road salt which can do messed up stuff to leather. I just asked because it may have been salvageable if it was a busted unusually topcoat but the leather ok. Hard to tell from photos. Regardless it’s not normal and shouldn’t be happening. Certainly worth a trip/call/email to see what they can do for you.

 

[cbez]

Very weird to see cracking like that. It's through the topcoat and into the actual grain. Wonder if they got heated, frozen, or exposed to chemicals or something as mentioned. Maybe if they were frozen solid and then flexed?? It would be hard to do that kind of damage even intentionally.

As the second owner you're kind of screwed. Wesco owes you nothing.

 

[cbez]

If you seal the crack on the toe as mentioned, they will probably be totally functional for a long time. the ankle stuff is not really in an area that gets wet unless you're stomping through deep puddles.

 

[dannyk]

Very weird to see cracking like that. It's through the topcoat and into the actual grain. Wonder if they got heated, frozen, or exposed to chemicals or something as mentioned. Maybe if they were frozen solid and then flexed?? It would be hard to do that kind of damage even intentionally.

As the second owner you're kind of screwed. Wesco owes you nothing.

Exactly what I was getting at. Because it looks like badly cracked topcoat that goes a bit into the leather. Only thing that came to mind is frozen and road salt. I’ve seen that. The water gets into small cracks in the topcoat freezes and expands. That causes bad cracking in the topcoat. Then if it’s frozen with road salt it can eat into the leather itself.

 

[Bfd70]

Shouldn’t have happened but if you’re wearing them for heavy. Work they’re gonna get cuts and gouges anyway. The present damage doesn’t mean they’ll fall apart next month. Wear them hard and don’t worry.