Comparison of Type A-1 jackets (GW and ELC .50 Cal)

[Dr H]

A quick comparison of the two Type A-1 jackets that I have from GW (the early 20s test jacket) and ELC (a reissue .50 Cal A-1 based on the original in Gary Eastman's collection).

Image of both Type A-1 jackets buttoned (GW on the left, ELC on the right).

Similar view of the rear of the jackets.

Some significant differences in the patterns (notably the buttons versus snaps, and the pocket sizes, flaps and positioning).

The GW sleeves are usually three-piece, inset/rotated with triple stitched raw seams; ELC have two-piece, in line, rolled seams.

GW has paler/mustard lining, double stitched hanger loop, compared with ELC darker brown lining.

Different heights in collar knit apparent (and treatment of box stitching to hanger loop).

Fully buttoned front and rear.

More images in next post.

 

[Dr H]

In my opinion, the only weakness of the ELC pattern is in the collar knit height, which hinders the collar from falling properly. In contrast, the depth and thickness of the GW collar makes this neater in use.

I shall replace the current collar on the .50 cal with a pattern based on the GW, but using the ELC knit material. Bit of a project, but ultimately very worthwhile as it'll make such an improvement to the fall of the collar and the overall appearance of the jacket.

The difference in the hides is remarkable. The GW cape is wearing quickly at friction points, becoming paler and flattening grain. The .50cal simply looks very old and worn right out of the box. When these photos were taken the GW had been worn on perhaps a dozen occasions (to/from work, walking the dog, etc.), on the other hand the ELC had been worn once this is pretty much delivery mileage...

The patterns offer a great contrast - I'm using the GW for work now that it's a little warmer. It's dressier and there's a little more room for a little layering. The ELC is more casual and is grand with jeans in the evening/weekends.

I was initially very skeptical of the both hides and, whilst the GW cape has grown on me a fair bit, it's not my favourite. It gets better with age and it's a better colour than some that I've had in the past; the grain is initially off putting in my eyes and it needs wear to calm it down. The pattern is extremely well executed and a very comfortable jacket for daily wear.

Alan (Persimmon) drew my attention to the .50 Cal Type A-1 following Duxford and he posted images that left me cold - as Alan said at the time, it looked 'bleached out and lifeless'. The prototype needed a lot of work and over the past few months various prototype finishes have been sold on the re-issue site, but none in my size.

The official images on the site: http://www.eastmanleather.com/product_i ... cts_id=244 still don't come close to the latest incarnation of the finish, which is much more subtle. This is undeniably the most authentic looking artificially 'aged' hide that I've had on a repro jacket (just shading it ahead of a hot water-treated GW Perry 16175-P that I almost bought third hand last year, which was just marginally too snug).

It is superb.

In use the GW 'feels' a touch heavier jacket in use (not by a lot - it's not an LW/Aero HH). The ELC wears much more like a leather sleeved sweater, but this could simply be down to the slight difference in sizes (GW is a test jacket 46, following HWT, the ELC is a 44 reissue jacket).

The GW is roomier in the sleeve tops/armholes, but the ELC is not tight/uncomfortable.

Wrist knits on both feel similar - marginally tighter on the GW. The waist knit is thicker on the GW, but no great difference. Big difference in collar knit means that I wear the collar differently, but I'll work on that.

The buttons on the GW are larger (diameter/depth) than the ELC, which makes them slightly clumsier to use, but I've discussed this with John and smaller buttons with more rounded edges are on the cards.

ELC feels slightly roomier across the yoke, but not a big difference. Bit nippier through the shoulders, but it's a 44 rather than a 46.

The finish of the .50 cal encourages me to be rougher with it. Again, it's not a heavy chrome tanned FQHH, thankfully, but it does mean that I'm not going to be precious with it, which suits me well. I'm not Bevan, but I am relatively hard on my repro jackets as they get worn a lot rather than being worn little and rotated, etc.

This is the best GW pattern that I've worn (this is my fifth) in an open cockpit I'd have preferred two buttons on the collar, although for my purposes a single button looks better. In the regular ELC cape (or the aged) it would be simply stunning. It's a very high quality jacket.

This is the best hide that I've seen on an ELC A-1 (again, this is my fourth). The pattern never varies, but the shorter sleeves on this one are a real bonus. With the collar knit modified (I've contacted ELC), this would/will be the most convincing Type A-1 replica that I've seen to date.

As this is the 'new' look' FL, this comes with the usual caveat, before anybody asks, I am not a shill, buyer, mate or mouthpiece of/for either outfit...

 

[rocketeer]

Some years back I bought one of Gary's very early A1s, then the hide was Horse, standard A2 leather so has he changed it now?
I only really sold it because I thought the pockets were only good for putting paper type items in, a bunch of keys made the jacket look very unsightly and a glove in each was a no no.
Nice jacket though rather impractical for me.
John

 

[Dr H]

John
The early A-1s were horsehide, he's been offering cape for some 5 years or more I guess (horsehide is no longer offered). The cape (even in the 'standard' form) is the best on the A-1 market, and I've examined nearly all of them.
It's true that the pockets are an acquired taste - the narrower pocket (with the pencil slot) is large enough for an iPhone; the other is large enough for a slim wallet (which comes naturally to the jacket collector) or keys, etc., but not much else.
I don't carry a lot in any case (and don't pack my pockets) so it works fine for me.

 

[Boyo]

Doc, Excellent review, thanks for sharing! I could be happy with either.

 

[Dr H]

Thanks, it's taken a fairly long journey (5 GW and 4 ELC Type A-1 jackets bought/sold on without loss it's true) to get to this point, but I won't be looking any further now as these are both ideal for me.

 

[majormajor]

An excellent review. Big thanks for that.

I will buy an A1 at some point, so some food for thought there.

I've loved the hides on the recent ELC A2s, so it is good to know they are doing a similar good job with the A1.

My only issue with ELCs has been the longer term performance of their knits. Perhaps this has improved too

 

[Dr H]

The knits on the GW are provided by RMNZ. The knits on this ELC A-1 are pretty much in the same class (and infinitely superior to the other four ELC A-1s that I've owned) - a big step up in this department I think.

 

[Sloan1874]

I've read people complaining about ELC knits 'stretching out' a bit too readily - though I understand this is a period-accurate detail - are they better/different from the GW ones? I personally prefer the mustard colouring, but both are nice looking jackets.

 

[Deleted member 16736]

Room for an iPhone? How prescient they were!

 

[majormajor]

Room for an iPhone? How prescient they were!

But when the iWatch comes out, those knits are gonna get in the way!:eeek:

 

[Dr H]

I've read people complaining about ELC knits 'stretching out' a bit too readily - though I understand this is a period-accurate detail - are they better/different from the GW ones? I personally prefer the mustard colouring, but both are nice looking jackets.

In my view these ELC knits are tighter than the others that I've had, but I'll post again is they go baggy prematurely. They are marginally less tight/thick than the RMNZ/GW ones, but it's a close call.

The mustard lining/knit combo is good with the russet GW hide, but I prefer the mid brown with the darker ELC chocolate hide.

 

[rocketeer]

I've read people complaining about ELC knits 'stretching out' a bit too readily - though I understand this is a period-accurate detail - are they better/different from the GW ones? I personally prefer the mustard colouring, but both are nice looking jackets.

I tend to like the slightly worn in feel about stretched cuffs, I suppose it is equal to those wanting a new jacket broken in without really wearing it for 30 years.
My horse A1 did tend to have a 'crackle' to the hide which I was not too keen on, the lining on those early jackets was a sort of satin feel cotton[I think]
I can remember when Gary got his first original A1 but I believe it was a mish mash of A1 body with A2 sleeves, they were that rare then, has he got a better one since?
J

 

[Dr H]

I know what you mean - I won't be unhappy when the cuffs go west eventually.
The lining on the current A-1 is a sateen, which is a good match for the original in terms of weave and colour.
Gary's A-1 is a superb Gordon & Ferguson in a size 38 (http://www.eastmanleather.com/product_info.php?products_id=162) - heaven knows what it's worth now.

 

[Dr H]

John Chapman has just been in touch. Apparently, the knits on the GW A-1 are not from RMNZ (he had a single shipment from them back in 2009), but these knits are from a USA company, and superior to the Japanese product in his view (stronger and a tighter weave).

 

[pauleway]

The hide and grain on the GW are just beautiful. I like the longer knits, but prefer the darker color of the ELC knits!

 

[Sloan1874]

Just because I thought this might be of interest to those who are, er, interested, I noticed Aero are doing this A-1 at an uber knock-down price. Unfortunately, not my size, otherwise... http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=1094

 

[Boyo]

Don't care for the zip up front though..

 

[Sloan1874]

I think hence the low price. For those not too concerned about the accuracy issue. Tis a very small point for a £200 reduction...

 

[Atticus Finch]

Excellent review. Personally, I've always thought A-1s should only be made from cape or wool. I think the unique cut of the jacket requires it to be made of a material with a very loose drape, such as...well...cape or wool. But that's just my opinion. My cat, Maggie, thinks that capeskin is a most excellent material for use in almost any kind of jacket. When it comes to leather, she think it sleeps much better than horse or goat.

AF