Bespoke Vintage Suit

[SteveN]

Gentlemen,

Greetings. I'm new here, but have long had a fascination for things old & stylish.

I'm entering a career phase where I need to dress up, and loving the old styles, would like to find some vintage suits. Unfortunately, in my neck of the woods, vintage clothing stores are hard to find. Even if I could find them, finding them in my size would be even more difficult, as I'm a bit smaller than most Australians.

However, having spend nearly 12 years living in Asia, I do know some fabulous tailors in Asia that would be willing to make me a custom suit at a reasonable price. I still travel there often.

The question is: how to give them directions? Like most things in Asia, they'll do a wonderful job, if you give them specific instructions.

Ideally, I'd already own, or buy, some vintage suits and instruct them to make me a copy. However since I don't have any, I'd like to ask a few question of the members here:

1. Is copying a suit a destructive process? If not, then there's a chance I could borrow a suit from a member in exchange for something, such as a good price on a copy (or cash).

2. Has anyone had good luck from providing a tailor with photos or illustrations? This might give the general sense, but then they still might now get the details right, such as the placement of the arm holes.

Cheers,
- SteveN

 

[Ethan Bentley]

I'm not sure about copying psychically a suit. My wife is a dab hand at customising suit with features from others.
There are some books about that would give some good examples, if good pictures suffice?
This has some good detail and pictures: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gentleman-T...=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1234485848&sr=8-1

Have you tried you local ebay? I know that I and it seems a lot of other forum members have picked up some bargains there

Have you any idea what you would like? 2 piece, 3 piece?

 

[reetpleat]

It may not be that hard to pick up damaged pieces, or suit jackets and slacks that do not match. these should be relatively cheap. I generally don't even pick them up when I see them for five or ten bucks because i can not really sell them very easily.

 

[GBR]

Copying does not have to be destructive at all - but it does have to have a good eye both to see what is there and replicate in something to fit you.

I would agree that some Asian tailors are good at this - albeit even if they copy fashion 'labels'.


Suggest pick up one or two pieces on eBay that you like almost regardless of fit and take those along to one or another of those you know.

 

[Guttersnipe]

Reetpleat has the right idea...

You could pick up damaged pieces to show them as examples of the details you want. They don't even have to fit you if. Also, if you search around the suits forum you can find tons of high res. pictures, these could most likely help as well.

When you choose fabric make sure select heavier material without synthetic fibers, that way you'll get the kind of drape you want.

 

[resortes805]

You could pick up damaged pieces to show them as examples of the details you want.

I've done this for years. My only advice is that you find an item that is EXACTLY what you want. If you start adding details or changing details about the garment, the tailor may get confused and you may end up with a garment that your are unsatisfied with.

 

[Luke 42]

Gentlemen,

Greetings. I'm new here, but have long had a fascination for things old & stylish.

I'm entering a career phase where I need to dress up, and loving the old styles, would like to find some vintage suits. Unfortunately, in my neck of the woods, vintage clothing stores are hard to find. Even if I could find them, finding them in my size would be even more difficult, as I'm a bit smaller than most Australians.

However, having spend nearly 12 years living in Asia, I do know some fabulous tailors in Asia that would be willing to make me a custom suit at a reasonable price. I still travel there often.

The question is: how to give them directions? Like most things in Asia, they'll do a wonderful job, if you give them specific instructions.

Ideally, I'd already own, or buy, some vintage suits and instruct them to make me a copy. However since I don't have any, I'd like to ask a few question of the members here:

1. Is copying a suit a destructive process? If not, then there's a chance I could borrow a suit from a member in exchange for something, such as a good price on a copy (or cash).

2. Has anyone had good luck from providing a tailor with photos or illustrations? This might give the general sense, but then they still might now get the details right, such as the placement of the arm holes.

Cheers,
- SteveN

Not to question you, but generally you are lucky if you are smaller than the average person because as far as I know, vintage clothing can mostly be found in small sizes So maybe try Ebay and the likes. Just my 2 cents..

 

[BinkieBaumont]

Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam is an amazing place to get a vintage style suit for about $100.00 (au) all the vintage detail you crave, but in a lighweight modern fabric to suit the Australian climate

 

[Tomasso]

If you start adding details or changing details about the garment, the tailor may get confused and you may end up with a garment that your are unsatisfied with.

Lost through translation. Been there, done that.

 

[Ethan Bentley]

Not to question you, but generally you are lucky if you are smaller than the average person because as far as I know, vintage clothing can mostly be found in small sizes So maybe try Ebay and the likes. Just my 2 cents..

Too true the amount of bargains I could have had if I was a 34 or 36 chest. Particularly waistcoats and smoking jackets.

 

[cookie]

Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam is an amazing place to get a vintage style suit for about $100.00 (au) all the vintage detail you crave, but in a lighweight modern fabric to suit the Australian climate

I worked with someone who said that Hanoiu also was good for suits.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Not to question you, but generally you are lucky if you are smaller than the average person because as far as I know, vintage clothing can mostly be found in small sizes So maybe try Ebay and the likes. Just my 2 cents..

Vintage clothing can generally be found in average sizes. Don't believe the hype. There is very little vintage out there that is truly "small". Believe me, i'm generally wearing a size up from where i should be (i only wear 40s and earlier) because XS really is not that available. The vast vast vast majority of vintage gear i see and have seen is 38-40.

If you think 38-40 is really small, good on you (not you specifically, FLoungers in general), but check the census data.

bk

 

[Tomasso]

I worked with someone who said that Hanoiu also was good for suits.

The word from my sources: Cheap prices to make-up but bring your own fabric (CMT) because they got bupkis .

 

[Madcap72]

My suit I picked up in Phuket was great (but ugly, too much Tiger...) From what I've seen they can crank out pretty good copies from pictures if that's all you have. Most small details are check boxed (inside pockets, collar styles and such) so if the pic's don't show TOO much detail, there still the ability to add what you want without too much confusion.

At least in Thailand, if the tailors "don't speak no good English" Grab (or pay) a friendly local who speaks it well to translate. Depending on the tailor, a small gift of cash for a speedy and quality job goes a long way. Mine was AMAZING, One fitting (normally, if you have time they do 3), over the clothes (normally in skivvies) and the suit came out fitting like a glove. It felt and looked like the thing was molded to my body, not a wrinkle in the drape or anything!

I got a Dinner jacket, vest, 2 silk dress shirts, and trousers for 150 USD.