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Berets, Anyone?

Daan

Vendor
Messages
939
Location
Wellington, Aotearoa
The latest addition to the range of berets under the Boneteria Aotearoa label, and quite different at that too.
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The brief for the manufacturer was a beret similar in quality and comfort to the Basque Super Lujo; the lightness of the Uruguayan Cataluña and the softness and smooth touch of an Auloronesa. And last, a very competitive price!
I think it worked out pretty well!
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These berets weigh only 70% of comparable berets, making them excellent for summer and in-between seasons. Soft to the touch and super comfortable.
The bérets foulard Aotearoa come in a range of four plateaus (diameters) and in two distinct colours: Graphite grey and Fox; a beautiful brown with a hint of red.
All models @ $50.00.
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In the same quality comes the majestic Txapeldun ('Champion' in the Basque language) in traditional black and a plateau of 36cm, @ $52.50.
These berets weigh only 70% of comparable berets, making them excellent for summer and in-between seasons. Soft to the touch and super comfortable.
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ErikFid

New in Town
Messages
36
Location
Big Apple
The latest addition to the range of berets under the Boneteria Aotearoa label, and quite different at that too.
View attachment 79248 View attachment 79249
The brief for the manufacturer was a beret similar in quality and comfort to the Basque Super Lujo; the lightness of the Uruguayan Cataluña and the softness and smooth touch of an Auloronesa. And last, a very competitive price!
I think it worked out pretty well!
View attachment 79250 View attachment 79251
These berets weigh only 70% of comparable berets, making them excellent for summer and in-between seasons. Soft to the touch and super comfortable.
The bérets foulard Aotearoa come in a range of four plateaus (diameters) and in two distinct colours: Graphite grey and Fox; a beautiful brown with a hint of red.
All models @ $50.00.
View attachment 79261 View attachment 79262
In the same quality comes the majestic Txapeldun ('Champion' in the Basque language) in traditional black and a plateau of 36cm, @ $52.50.
These berets weigh only 70% of comparable berets, making them excellent for summer and in-between seasons. Soft to the touch and super comfortable.
View attachment 79263 View attachment 79264

Typical! Just ordered 2 Super Lujo's and a cotton boina and then this whole new scala of berets appears... These berets get me in the poor house!
 

ErikFid

New in Town
Messages
36
Location
Big Apple
So, I now am the happy owner of 2 Auloresas, 2 Super Lujos and a cotton Tolosa Tupida from Argentina. Obviously, the cotton beret does me well with temps in the higher 80s, but actually, I find the Super Lujos just as easy to wear in the heat.
It brings up the question: what IS a summer beret, or better, is there a real difference between summer and winter berets? And are berets not worn year round in the Basque Country?
 
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Daan

Vendor
Messages
939
Location
Wellington, Aotearoa
So, I now am the happy owner of 2 Auloresas, 2 Super Lujos and a cotton Tolosa Tupida from Argentina. Obviously, the cotton beret does me well with temps in the higher 80s, but actually, I find the Super Lujos just as easy to wear in the heat.
It brings up the question: what IS a summer beret, or better, is there a real difference between summer and winter berets? And are berets not worn year round in the Basque Country?

Good point! Simply said, the only "real" summer berets are the Eco-Printemps berets by Le Béret Français, the cotton berets from Uruguay, Argentina and the new models by Laulhère.
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The South American cotton berets were specifically developed to offer farmers, peasants and gaucho's a cooler, lighter alternative to the original Basque berets in wool. Gaucho's, the cowboys of the South, often had their roots in the Basque Country (both French and Spanish) and stayed true to their traditional headgear.
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Although it seems a simple affair, to replace merino wool thread for cotton, it is actually a very complicated process to create a beret in cotton with a reasonable stiffness and ability to keep shape. Try one of the cheap Italian or Chinese made cotton berets and you'll know what I mean.

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The Eco-Printemps beret is a different kind of beret, made of recycled cotton, silk and synthetic fibers with it's main purpose to provide a good looking head cover in the lightest possible material.

Now, for wool berets. Most quality berets are made of merino wool and one of the great assets of merino wool fibers is it's incredible capacity for insulation. In other words: a beret made of this material keeps the head warm in winter and cool in summer. This was evident for the Basque and Béarnaise shepherds, who wore their large diameter black txapelas year-round; in summer providing shelter from the sun as well as a visor to keep the sun out of the eyes. The higher quality merino wool (in micron), the better the insulation quality of the garment.
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The Basque made Super Lujo's, Txapeldun's and especially the Exposición Año 1858 are the best examples of this principle. Look at old photo's and film from the Pyrenees and Spain and you'll see most men wearing black berets in the heat of the day.
Alas, at the same time there is a new generation of wool berets that are lighter in weight and density, made in a looser knit, sometimes fitted with air vents or extra material around the headband to provide lift. Good examples are the brand new
foulards Aotearoa, the Czech light weight Classics and 11.5", Hispano Basque's and the Franco-German Baskenmuetze.
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GrayEyes

Familiar Face
Messages
79
Location
a northern factory town
While not directly about berets, I thought I would share something interesting with you gentlemen.

I recently received this newly published book as a gift:
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Living with the Enemy: German Occupation, Collaboration and Justice in the Western Pyrenees by Sandra Ott

It is about the experience of the French Basque country and Béarn (today's département Pyrénées-Atlantiques) just before, during, and just after World War II. While it is a very academic book and not an easy read, it is quite interesting to see what happened in the heartland of the béret during the 1930s and 1940s. One focus of the author's examination is Oloron and its workers. And, yes, berets are mentioned in the narrative.

Since many of us here have an interest in this region and not only in its famous headwear, I am passing along the recommendation.
 
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Daan

Vendor
Messages
939
Location
Wellington, Aotearoa
While not directly about berets, I thought I would share something interesting with you gentlemen.

I recently received this newly published book as a gift:
9781316630877.jpg

Living with the Enemy: German Occupation, Collaboration and Justice in the Western Pyrenees by Sandra Ott

It is about the experience of the French Basque country and Béarn just before, during, and just after World War II. While it is a very academic book and not an easy read, it is quite interesting to see what happened in the heartland of the béret during the 1930s and 1940s. A particular focus of the author's examination is Oloron and its workers. And, yes, berets do appear in the narrative.

Since many of us here have an interest in this region and not only in its famous headwear, I am passing along the recommendation.

Fantastic! I wasn't aware of this book, but have ordered my copy immediately. If interested, you can order with good discounts and free delivery by using this link.
 

Daan

Vendor
Messages
939
Location
Wellington, Aotearoa
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On SPECIAL this week, a series that I believe is a great representation of Berets in Blues in a large variety of models and diameters and all at well discounted prices.
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The Czech Classic and 11.5" Service Stars are among the most under-rated berets, but among my personal favourites. Excellent workmanship, great quality and superior comfort. Even without discount at a very competitive price. The Classic is a one-size model - the 11.5" fitted with a leather headband.
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Boinas Elósegui’s Exposición Super Lujo hardly needs an introduction - among the world's best berets; impermeable, 100% Australian merino wool, cool in summer - warm in winter and lasting a lifetime. The 28cm comes in UN-blue, the navy models in 29cm and 31.5cm Plato Grande.
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Last in this series of specials, the Grand Foulard Aotearoa in navy, made by Boneteria Auloronesa: 336mm solid merino wool in the best possible shape; unbeatable in quality and comfort.
On SPECIAL for one week only at a great discount or as long as stock lasts.
 
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Daan

Vendor
Messages
939
Location
Wellington, Aotearoa
Portugal has a long history of beret wearing, but quite different from large Iberian neighbour Spain. Portuguese berets are typically small plateau (26cm in diameter), usually in black and occasionally seen in blue.
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During the long dictatorship (1932-1974), berets were typically smuggled in from Spain as contraband, or brought in by returning Portuguese who went to France for work; much coveted pieces of headgear from the outside world (Portuguese smugglers and "border jumpers" pictured below).
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The beret is well presented in Portuguese politics, literature and the arts; people like António Alves Redol, Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso (below), Miguel Torga, Fernando Valle and Manuel Cabanas (himself and one of his wood engravings pictured here) to name only a few well known Portuguese boineros. But most commonly, berets were worn by the peasants and fishermen; a typical worker's hat. .
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Portugal, where the garment and headgear industry is still prominent, has had various manufacturers of berets, but never on a serious level like in France and Spain - factories have come and gone.
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South Pacific Berets has teamed up with a Lisboan hat manufacturer who manufactures the traditional Boinas Basca. We now offer a full range of Portuguese berets; the traditional small plateau model (fully lined, sized, in black and Royal Blue); wool universel un-lined berets in colour and un-lined cotton summer berets.
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