Back When 'Casual' Meant 'Upper Class'

[Marc Chevalier]

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Seems like a million years ago, eh? A time when American leisure belonged only to America's 'Leisure Class' ... the only class that could afford it.


Expensively-obtained 20th century leisure required appropriate 20th century clothes ... what we now call 'casual wear' or 'active wear'. The couturiers, tailors and haberdashers of the wealthy either invented or co-opted clothing which gave the wearer more ease of movement and/or greater physical comfort. Polo shirts; penny loafers; madras shorts; tennis sneakers: these were adopted by the rich before trickling down to the middle class.


Quoted from Vance Packard's perceptive 1959 book, THE STATUS SEEKERS:

"Perhaps the most visible differentiation between males of the upper cluster of classes and those of the lower classes is the elaborate casualness of the upper-class dress for most occasions outside work, and the faith in formality of those of the lower groups ..."

 

[LoveMyHats2]

Very interesting. You know many things have changed since then, you don't see as many places like back then that sold the line of clothing offered as much. Places like Robert Halls, and Hat Shops, the real Shoe Stores...not only has the "mood" of such changed, what in the world has replaced it?

But it is very accurate, you would even see in advertising back then, a picture of what would be considered upper class, several people standing on a tennis court with a sweater tied around the waist, saddle shoes or penny loafers, that look of casual....

 

[Gregg Axley]

Right.
I only know of one good hat store in town, and it's owned by a man that's been in the business a very long time. His brother was the clothier of a King...well the King of Rock and Roll.
Before Christmas I might go over there when they open and just look.
I have a fedora, a nice one, but it's brown. I'd have to wear that with blue I guess, or green.

 

[Tomasso]

these were adopted by the rich before trickling down to the middle class.

Now the process has reversed; style starts on the street and works its way up to the elites.

 

[C-dot]

Brooks Brothers still sells "casual" clothing for the elite and financially flush. They seem to be the last hold-out.

 

[LizzieMaine]

We see the traditional upper-class casual around here all the time in the summer when the Old Money Yacht people are in town -- Mr. Rogers-style sneakers worn with khaki pants, a pink polo shirt, and a blue-and-white seersucker jacket that looks like it's been slept in. That's when you know the true rulers are out strolling among the subjects.

 

[LoveMyHats2]

Brooks Brothers still sells "casual" clothing for the elite and financially flush. They seem to be the last hold-out.

I do like the majority of the Brooks Brothers line of clothing and shoes. It is normally fairly good quality but the prices are a bit on the higher side. I purchased a few pair of "spectator" shoes from them and find the quality level was really good. Have also a few suits and shirts. No complaints at all about them.

 

[LoveMyHats2]

We see the traditional upper-class casual around here all the time in the summer when the Old Money Yacht people are in town -- Mr. Rogers-style sneakers worn with khaki pants, a pink polo shirt, and a blue-and-white seersucker jacket that looks like it's been slept in. That's when you know the true rulers are out strolling among the subjects.

Actually a few times a year when I am at the marina I do see some older well off people dressed in what would normally be called, "preppy" style. But for the most part, I recognize some of their clothing to be rather poor quality low end items, pants and shirts and belts and shoes from the online catalog store, Blair!

Lord help me if when I get old, I will care as much as I do now about my attire!

 

[Undertow]

I would add that the elite-casual we're discussing wasn't all that casual in any case. Certainly, a workingman wouldn't have worn an undershirt and slacks to the store, but how many family photos, etc. have we seen of younger men (20's-30's) dressed in rolled jeans and an undershirt, or the like, sitting on their porch with the children? Or standing next to a tree with a big grin?

Thus, as is today, so was then; casual is in the eye of the beholder. I would argue we need to make the distinction between golden era elite-casual and workingman's casual. Or that is to say, "public" casual and homebound casual.

Is that the purpose of the thread? [huh] Or have I, yet again, missed the mark?

 

[Justin B]

I think you're only slightly off Undertow. Seems to me as if the discussion is about "Casual" in reference to recreation, not just time spent away from work. As in "Summering" somewhere or such like that. Not just talking about what someone would wear on the weekend, but rather the way the blessed and talented dressed when they were at "play".

 

[rue]

Old money still dresses this way. New money.... not so much.

We see the traditional upper-class casual around here all the time in the summer when the Old Money Yacht people are in town -- Mr. Rogers-style sneakers worn with khaki pants, a pink polo shirt, and a blue-and-white seersucker jacket that looks like it's been slept in. That's when you know the true rulers are out strolling among the subjects.

Exactly.

 

[sheeplady]

Old money still dresses this way. New money.... not so much.

What about used to be old money but spent it all? lol

Is this a east coast thing though? I've always thought about the look that LizzieMaine mentioned as being an east coast thing- dressing in a certain way (there is almost a vibe) that the people do whom go "summering." I've heard on the west coast that this dressing for "summering" doesn't happen?

Growing up in the Adirondack mountains, it was a bit different- khakis, button down shirt (sometimes flannel or plaid- it's still cold for some) or polo, and then shoes that are loafers or barely worn tennis shoes. The women dress similarly except add a sweater tied around the shoulders. That type of dress was an indication that someone likely either owned a large camp (cabin) or rented for the entire summer, and "summered" rather than being a vacationer.

 

[rue]

What about used to be old money but spent it all? lol

Is this a east coast thing though? I've always thought about the look that LizzieMaine mentioned as being an east coast thing- dressing in a certain way (there is almost a vibe) that the people do whom go "summering." I've heard on the west coast that this dressing for "summering" doesn't happen?

Growing up in the Adirondack mountains, it was a bit different- khakis, button down shirt (sometimes flannel or plaid- it's still cold for some) or polo, and then shoes that are loafers or barely worn tennis shoes. The women dress similarly except add a sweater tied around the shoulders. That type of dress was an indication that someone likely either owned a large camp (cabin) or rented for the entire summer, and "summered" rather than being a vacationer.

If you go somewhere like the Newport Beach Yacht Club or the Big Canyon Country Club in California, you'll see them in droves.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Is this a east coast thing though?

Actually, it has become international. Old wealth and upper middle class "traditional" professionals in Central and South America, Africa, India, Asia, Russia, the Middle East, and most of Europe --even France-- dress like this (with very slight local variation). Loafers, boat shoes, polo shirts, madras, chinos, shetland sweaters tied loosely around the neck: all of it.


One BIG reason is that a surprising number of those elite international folks got their graduate degrees at east coast Ivy League universities here in the U.S. The foreign students adopted the fashions of the 'preppy' Americans around them on campus, and continued wearing the stuff after graduation, when they went back to their home countries.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

If you go somewhere like the Newport Beach Yacht Club or the Big Canyon Country Club in California, you'll see them in droves.

Yes. By some accounts, Newport Beach is the wealthiest city in America.

 

[rue]

Yes. By some accounts, Newport Beach is the wealthiest city in America.

Yes and full of some very old money and to them the show The Housewives of Orange County is an extreme embarrassment. Not to take the thread off topic.... sorry Marc

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Yes and full of some very old money and to them the show The Housewives of Orange County is an extreme embarrassment.

Truth be told, West Orange County is where wealthy, conservative Los Angeles folks (most of whom had been born in the Midwest) fled to in the '50s. Old money and new.


It's no coincidence that, in the '50s and '60s, Southern California's extreme right-wing paramilitary organizations were based in Orange County.

 

[rue]

Truth be told, West Orange County is where wealthy, conservative Los Angeles folks (most of whom had been born in the Midwest) fled to in the '50s. Old money and new.


It's no coincidence that, in the '50s and '60s, Southern California's extreme right-wing paramilitary organizations were based in Orange County.

Yes, exactly!

 

[sheeplady]

One BIG reason is that a surprising number of those elite international folks got their graduate degrees at east coast Ivy League universities here in the U.S. The foreign students adopted the fashions of the 'preppy' Americans around them on campus, and continued wearing the stuff after graduation, when they went back to their home countries.

That makes sense. I've known many people who aspired to send their children east for their education at one of the Ivies, or "in the least" a big east coast school. Although most of what you see around the campuses of Ivy league schools pn students nowdays is not very "preppy" at all- it's mainly jeans.

It's rather strange, however, because many graduates do tend to adopt that form of dress later in life (polo, sweater, etc.), but the majority of students don't dress preppy.

 

[LizzieMaine]

The other accessory that goes with that look is skin tanned to the shade of an old catcher's mitt, and the more leathery the better. It's proof you spend all your time *on* your yacht instead of daydreaming about owning one.