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Call Me a Cab
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five star.I like the JH1 look but not the RMC prices. Is there anywhere I can get the same or similar look? View attachment 478821
five star.I like the JH1 look but not the RMC prices. Is there anywhere I can get the same or similar look? View attachment 478821
This Guofo Mulholland clone made of CF Stead Waxed Kudu is really cool. Don't see Kudu being used on jackets often.Thank you for the detailed response. I don’t want to pay the extreme surcharge either.
Same with Langlitz, I would just settle on cowhide.
Surcharge; when they charge that much extra for one particular leather, it makes me question the value of their regular leather options, basically are they getting them for nothing, because they should be removing the cost of the original which leads me to believe they should not have such expensive surcharges for any leather. (I hope that came out understandable)
The jump is crazy, the price for shinki seems to be about what it cost a manufacturer to make a Shinki jacket, but it should be less because they are not using the base Liberty hide (just a guess based on Goodwear & Fields, we will leave Himel out of this equation )
Then look at Victory hide £900 I can’t find any leather online that cost that much given the info on the average SQ Footage it takes to make a jacket.
View attachment 478860
Yes the Brucaito Horsehide, it’s my favorite hide Thedi offers, I think you are right on point with Maryam Tannery because Viberg has a Bruciato HorseButt service boot that’s been available for a while and it looks just like Thedi’s Bruciato minus the weathering treatment he uses. View attachment 478867 View attachment 478868
There is a jacket maker in China on Taobao (Guofu)that makes jackets from Maryam, 1.5mm thick and looks every bit, he stands out because his prices are way more expensive than anything else besides imported products, $1,800 for full bespoke sizing. I was and am tempted to use him and his turn around time was like 2 weeks. The work looks really good, he makes a Mullholland clone and a LeatherTogs D pocket. What worries me is the language barrier and I know there is more to making a jacket than what I can see, like sleeve inset and rotation, the way the panel’s connect, how the sleeves are made to form a curved tunnel.
The Maryam he uses doesn’t have much grain almost glass smooth, like Horsebutt, i know that’s just how he orders it though.
I wonder what Maryam does to produce the grainy kind.
But does that make chromexcel more duable? Do tanning processes that soften leather also weaken it?I think Tanning has to do with stiffness. The same hide can be treated many different ways. CXL is stiff because of the wax content.
I was mainly referring to duability as tear resistance@newtojackets What do you mean by durable? Scratch resistant? Tensile strength (tear resistance)? Water resistance? I think the main things that make the leather more tough in general are thickness, density (for example shoulder of the hide, full grain), perhaps animal (bison?).
Rose Anvil does some nice "toughness" tests quite often when he reviews boots. Awesome channel in general.
Personally I would say Yes, IN GENERAL, stiffer leather is tougher (assuming that it is not stiff because of a heavy pigment coat, not stiff because it is dried out and vulnerable to cracking/splitting). In most cases stiffer means that the fibers are interwoven more tightly. But it can also mean a high wax content, which, to me, also makes the leather tougher in some ways.
On the other hand, goat, one of the softest and most pliable leathers, is known to be one of the most durable / tough ones. So it's a tricky thing.
But goat and kangaroo are naturally less stiff from my understanding? This is why I was trying to compare horse vs horse. The reason I ask is you do ocassionaly see vintage jackets with rips / tearsGoat and kangaroo are both very durable hides, but often they aren’t tanned to be stiff.
I think that thickness plays a part in durability, but there are examples of thick and soft leathers as well.
There are ancient examples of Veg-tanned leathers, and many chrome-tanned jackets have survived for a century. Some are thick/ some thinner. CXL topcoat will scratch easily while others won’t. The hides underneath will last your lifetime if cared for. Most issues seem to come from storage (either too damp or to hot and dry).
I don't think there is necessarily any correlation between tensile strength and stiffness of leather.I was mainly referring to duability as tear resistance
Yes, there are examples, but I think most damage happens to dried out hides (flaking top-coat, cracking, tears at stress points, and rot) or collars subjected to sweat. More often in older jackets rotted stitching is the problem (100% cotton thread) not the hide. Abrasions and cuts seem to be the other major damage on the leather.But goat and kangaroo are naturally less stiff from my understanding? This is why I was trying to compare horse vs horse. The reason I ask is you do ocassionaly see vintage jackets with rips / tears
Vanson model AI found this cool Vanson for sale : https://www.vinted.fr/men/clothes/c...ets/945425444-blouson-en-cuir-vanson-leathers
The thing I'm struggling with is how can it have such measurements for a size 38?
~42cm shoulders - ???
~47-48cm pit to pit - ???
~43cm waist - ???
~61cm arm length - OK
I'll ask to measure again with it being as flat as possible and give me the back length.
But all the measurements seem so small! More like a 34 than a 38.
Is it because it's a cafe race (very trim/slim) and has a full action back?
Don’t worry about it too much mate. Most jackets you see here will outlast you.Stiff jackets aren't necessarily more duable right? When I wear a stiff jacket I feel like it is more durable, but this probably doesn't have any logical basis right (when comparing leather from the same animal)? E.g. is a stiff horsehide jacket e.g. CXL more durable than a soft one e.g. Shinki?
Correct. I recently got a model B, and thats been my exact experience.@Canuck Panda
Let me see if I understand correctly.
42 measures 46.5 in the chest, "chest ease" being 4.5inch.
Meaning that a 38 would be 42.5.
42.5 / 2 = 21.25" chest = ~54.5cm
So for a size 38 the chest should be 54,5cm / 21.25" across?
Does "chest ease" consider the back gussets in any way?
The seller states 47-48cm pit to pit, which is way smaller than 54,5cm
Thanks! I think I will move it to the floor.Make sure you use a wide hanger if drying that way! or better yet, pool noodles- don't want shoulder puckers.
I'd dry it on a towel on the floor.