Any advice on sourcing your own hide and doing MTM jackets?

[DamonCyclee]

Hey guys, I'm looking at buying some hides and creating a bespoke or MTM jacket when I visit Vietnam or China later next year.

With black friday sale going on, I thought I take advantage of the discounts on hides. From quick googling it seems like people recommend buying 40 to 45 sqft of leather. Is that accurate? Or do I need less if buy A grade hides with less defects and more if it's craft run or B grade hides or lower?

And any general fit advice or construction techniques when going to a tailor that does the MTM process?

 

[Canuck Panda]

I've bought from Maverick and Hashimoto and Buyleatheronline. I don't see the difference between the A grade and A/B grade. Just don't get craft grade.

Depending on the size of the hide and the size of your jacket, you will need anywhere from 40 to 50 sf. Add more for big and tall sizes. Smaller sized hides have crappy yield and lots of waste.

The thing is, most retail leather are 3oz and thicker. But from what I know, the oversea shops works mainly with 2.5oz or under. So if you give them a thicker hide and they don't have a splitter it won't work.

Surprisingly, there is a lot of Italian and Japanese leather available in China. Not sure about Vietnam, but I am sure it's getting there too. Unless you have a very specific leather in mind it would almost make the most economic sense to to go to their local leather market, buy the Shinki / Horween / Badalassi and then have the tailor make the jacket for you.

There is also a huge leather industry in Singapore. Lots of options there.

 

[DamonCyclee]

I've bought from Maverick and Hashimoto and Buyleatheronline. I don't see the difference between the A grade and A/B grade. Just don't get craft grade.

Depending on the size of the hide and the size of your jacket, you will need anywhere from 40 to 50 sf. Add more for big and tall sizes. Smaller sized hides have crappy yield and lots of waste.

The thing is, most retail leather are 3oz and thicker. But from what I know, the oversea shops works mainly with 2.5oz or under. So if you give them a thicker hide and they don't have a splitter it won't work.

Surprisingly, there is a lot of Italian and Japanese leather available in China. Not sure about Vietnam, but I am sure it's getting there too. Unless you have a very specific leather in mind it would almost make the most economic sense to to go to their local leather market, buy the Shinki / Horween / Badalassi and then have the tailor make the jacket for you.

There is also a huge leather industry in Singapore. Lots of options there.

Thanks for the detailed advice! I'll probably just buy local Japanese or Italian leathers then

 

[willyto]

@Carlos840 and @red devil have done this with Lost Worlds. Not sure how they chose the leather and what is needed

 

[Aloysius]

@navetsea is the only person who can answer this.

 

[Carlos840]

@Carlos840 and @red devil have done this with Lost Worlds. Not sure how they chose the leather and what is needed

We bought from these guys, RD dealt with shipping to NYC which was pretty expensive in itself.

https://www.kokkolan.com/

 

[navetsea]

my jacket is typically size 36, I use 1 full cow hide the supplier measured as 50sq feet for a cross zip, and I still got some hide back to make leather bracelets , if you want patch pockets (D pocket, cargo pockets, chest pocket, coin pocket, doubled kidney panel, etc) then calculate the extra leather needed for those too. I have used pressed leather and unpressed leather for jacket, pressed leather is very tough to break in, and it started very smooth its grain will show after some conditioning or after washing( or rained on perhaps) but this first washing turned it into cardboard once dried and I treated mine with obenauf leather oil 3x to be finally feel like leather jacket and not a suitcase. the unpressed leather has rich grain from start and feel nice right away.