Anatomy of a suit...

[Grimstar]

While working on something today, I realized I had a chance to get some pics of something most people never get to see. This might also answer the question I saw asked in another thread, of why bespoke tailoring costs so much.

This is the lapel of a suit right after the padstitching and taping, before the facings are attached. You won't usually see this at a first fitting, because it's not done yet (major details of the fit still being worked out at that time). And at the second fitting, or forward baste, the facings have been attached, which covers most of this work up.

This is why bespoke tailoring costs so much. This is what you pay for, all the tiny stitches done by hand that join the interfacing to the fabric of the coat. In factories, suits are usually made with fused interfacing (basically glueing the layers of fabric together). this can be done in minutes with hot presses. In bespoke, it's done with all these stitches, all done by hand. This takes TIME...and that's what you pay for. The interfacing in the front chest area is done the same way. You can almost see the back side of the stitches in this pic, but since they are done with ordinary white basteing thread, they don't show up well against the white domette cloth.

And here's a close up, showing the edge taping and roll line tape...also stitched down by hand, so that the stitches don't show on the outside.

So there it is...one of the major differences between a $200 off-the-rack suit and a $2000 custom hand tailored suit. And yes, this will be a single breasted peak lapel suit (with high button stance and high armholes ) when it's done.

 

[Maj.Nick Danger]

Very interesting!

So much more to a suit than what meets the eye. We tend to not realize what lies beneath the outer fabric and the lining. A lot of work there, to say the least, and a magnificent art form. Thanks for the insight.

 

[WEEGEE]

THANK YOU

WOW...

 

[herringbonekid]

looking at several jackets, i don't see all of those tiny stitches on the back of the lapel, so i guess they don't go all the way through and just 'catch' the fabric ?

also, could you illustrate where the front chest areas of a suit are stitched to the interfacing ?

 

[Grimstar]

looking at several jackets, i don't see all of those tiny stitches on the back of the lapel, so i guess they don't go all the way through and just 'catch' the fabric ?

also, could you illustrate where the front chest areas of a suit are stitched to the interfacing ?

You're right...they don't go all the way through the lapel, in most cases...and the underside of the stitch is very tiny...if you look closely at the underside of the lapel (on a suit that is made this way) you might see tiny pinpricks in staggered rows...those are the stitches. The body canvas of a suit is stitched in at the reinforcements around the pocket openings, the sides of the pocket bags (the actual "pocket" ), along the front edges (that 1/4 inch wide tape you see along the edge in the pics), and the hem is stitched to it at the bottom. The upper edge is attached to the shoulder pad. I'll try to get some pics of all this and put them here.

 

[Matt Deckard]

Good pics, keep them coming.
Will wee see the finished product on the person who commissioned the suit?

 

[herringbonekid]

thanks for your help Grimstar,

is the body canvas ever attatched to the back of the darts in the front too ?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Fascinating and very instructive. A picture really can be worth a thousand words! Grimstar, who the maker of the suit that you deconstructed?

.

 

[Maj.Nick Danger]

I think Grimstar is the maker and it is not yet fully constructed.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

:eusa_doh:

Of course, you're right!

.

 

[Maj.Nick Danger]

That's just a testimony,....

.....to Grimstar's fabulous talent. He had you believing it was a vintage suit!

 

[Marc Chevalier]

He certainly did.

.

 

[Grimstar]

herringbonekid, I've never seen a suit that had the canvas attached to the front darts, but I suppose it could be done...every tailor has their own way of doing things. That's why every bespoke suit is a unique creation. Even the flaws...and there will be "flaws", due to the handmade nature of the beast, even though you might not notice them, (like a pocket opening where the piping is a sixteenth of an inch wider on one end than the other, for example) ...are part of the charm.

Oh, and to give you an idea of scale...those are one inch squares on the grid that those pieces are lying on in the pic, if you haven't guessed already.

Thanks for all the compliments. You will get to see this one when it's finished, as this one is for me. I have thought about a thread to document the creation of a suit from beginning to end...what do you guys think? Would there be enough interest in that sort of thing...or would it just be an annoying way of cluttering up the forum? (Something in a vintage style, of course...otherwise, what would be the point? )

 

[herringbonekid]

i'd love to see a thread about the whole suit creation process !

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Me too!

.

 

[The Reno Kid]

Me too!

 

[Maj.Nick Danger]

Me too!

Me three!

Maybe it should be a sticky that can be read by new members here in the future? And you can continually add to it as the work progresses.

 

[WEEGEE]

GREAT IDEA

ON pins and needles...great thread.

 

[clevispin]

An amazing picture - I had no idea this was the alternative to fusing. Thanks.

m

 

[wackyvorlon]

I will add my vote for the thread. As an aside, can you recommend resources for learning the tailor's trade?

I am always in awe of the complexity of a suit jacket - especially a quality, hand-stitched jacket.