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Ajmone Leather Blazer

Messages
16,803
I've heard of this brand in passing. Stupidly expensive - their suede shirts retail for over $2.5K - Italian made sartorial leather clothes, made from finest Italian vegetable tanned leathers by finest artisans blah, blah, this and that... All the usual blurbs we've all read countless times before. But, I did make a mental note of it.

Having been into leather blazers for the past couple of years, it didn't take much research to realize that the situation on the market is dire. Price dictating neither quality nor fit, best I had to hope for was either some ridiculous 70's disco looking costume piece or an overpriced, high-fashion / low-quality shiny sport-coat, made from lambskin so light it's practically two dimensional so it's no wonder that the moment I spotted this on Vinted, I knew my few hundred euros are as good as gone.

Making a risky, private deal with the seller, not knowing whether they'll even ship it out, let alone if it will fit me or not is never a good idea but luck was on my side; The blazer arrived today and... I'm impressed. Enough to make a thread.

The pretentious blurbs didn't lie. Not this time.
I've long ago lost faith in what most sellers have to say about the stuff their selling, especially when it comes to weight so you can imagine my surprise when the UPS guy handed me the box declared at 3.2 kg. The seller wasn't exaggerating - This thing practically stands on its own!

So let's start off with the most important part of the review - Leather. Obviously vegetable tanned horsehide with a very organic, full-grain finish, it isn't like anything I've handled before but due to its waxy and/or oily finish, closest match would be Shinki if it was waxed. Think Shinki x CXL, though it is neither.
The most noteworthy (and beautiful) characteristic of this leather is the way it creases - or rolls, rather! Thick, deep, almost sculpted rolls.

Don't get me wrong, though; I'm not saying this is the best leather ever as there's no such thing. It's just in a very good way, different.

Another striking aspect of this garment is, as you can no doubt see, the way it is constructed. I've only seen this kind of stitching on expensive suits & I've no idea what any of it is called but it is gorgeous. Somehow classy & raw at the same time.
I've inspected every inch of the blazer and the attention to detail is absolute. Every seam and stitch finished where the maker decided, not the sewing machine.

All this is to say that while high quality is rarely, if ever expected out of high-fashion brands, simply put, this blazer is as well made & as tough as anything out there.

The coat is lined in a silky Cupro and all the lining piping/edges is, incredibly enough, also done in white horse leather, at least according to the tag.

Speaking of tags, there's a tag with "N. 3/30" embossed into it which, while pointless, does add a certain charm to the whole thing and it does make me feel... Happy.

All in all, while I would have never paid full price for this thing, of all the leather jackets that I have had, this one shouts luxury the loudest and buying it was one leap of faith I don't regret. Whether I will keep it or not... Time will tell but I honestly don't think I will ever buy a nicer leather blazer. What else is there to look for?

I am positive at least that I can't get the money I paid for it back so no fear you'll see it in the Classifieds here.

Anyway, I hope you had fun reading this and please enjoy a few photos.

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Messages
17,490
Location
Chicago
That leather is absolutely beautiful and I’m with you on sports coat style outerwear. It’s hard to go back after getting into it. The wool
Westerns I have really spoiled me for what fit can be. I see the same level of tailoring in this piece.
 
Messages
16,803
That leather is absolutely beautiful and I’m with you on sports coat style outerwear. It’s hard to go back after getting into it. The wool
Westerns I have really spoiled me for what fit can be. I see the same level of tailoring in this piece.

You'd love this one! The Westerns are always cool but not obtainable where I am so I gave up on the idea early on, though I love the patterns. The shiny and the 70's ones are plenty but they all make me look stupid. The 70's wouldn't be all too bad but I always feel I'm wearing them half ironically and I HATE wearing anything ironically anymore. It's just not right.

This blazer though, it could have been made either today or someplace at the American frontier, circa 1863. The color, the drape, texture, everything means business.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,840
Location
East Java
nice looking leather patina, to me leather material on blazer is a bit weird, since you love leather more as it creases and show character on the collar and lapel and pocket flaps, while blazer style is something that usually kept sleek, with ironed lapel and collar.
 
Messages
11,144
Location
SoCal
I see huge potential if you keep and wear it a lot. @casechopper’s blazer was incredible (I think it was about 60yrs old).
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,691
Location
Europe
Fun review, Ivan. Thanks a lot!

Leather blazers are about as difficult a topic as can be. It’s a garment that seems to scream IRONY at max volume, yet I am absolutely with you: if you want to go “ironic” goto Berlin, dress up as a cosplay lumberjack and get on everybody’s nerves.

Seeing the fit pix in the “What jacket…” thread: you of all people pull it off and manage to look eternally cool. You just have it!
 

Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,643
Yeah I really dig this.

Don't know much about the brand other than Justin Theroux was wearing one of their jackets for a photo shoot which i thought looked cool.

What you say about the nature of the leather is interesting, in that its exactly what it LOOKS like. It looks thick, waxy, QUALITY.

Would like to try one of their jackets someday
 

mumpy

Practically Family
Messages
507
Looks great!

How long is this jacket? I think this type of jacket looks better on taller folks (at least 1.85cm and above I would say) but obviously depends on body type as well etc.
 
Messages
16,803
Hah, I didn't expect to see this one resurrected.

Sadly, I sold it already.

...

I'm just kidding. It's still my favorite thing ever.

@Mrfrown, yep, you're correct, that's the brand of the Cafe racer he's wearing for that more recent photo shoot. There's one on sale in Germany right now, as a matter of fact and the seller is asking nearly grand and a half (Euros) for it, if you're interested. The jacket does look amazing...

https://www.kleinanzeigen.de/s-anze...jacke-schwarz-groesse-50r/2593165599-160-8995

I wear mine a lot. It's very comfortable, reasonably warm and super practical though that might be attributed to the style, rather than anything else but it's not (just) for the show, in any case.

@mumpy, 29" or 74 cm. Fairly standard for a blazer. If one looks good in a suit, no reason not to in this. :)

Some evo photos, taken just now.

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navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,840
Location
East Java
great looking leather evo, and lovely looking details on the reinforced sinew? or artificial sinew? stitches like on handmade belt and wallet
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,943
It's kind of interesting. A number of us have pointed out that we're not quite ready for leather sports coats (because it's such a specific look, sometimes dated in unpleasant ways). I think this is pretty widespread now; some women will wear them, but for men it feels like a 90s throwback. I'm such a one myself, with the exception of ones with explicitly western detailing.

And yet… perhaps this is odd behaviour. @navetsea quite a while ago, nailed it when he theorized why some Japanese brands have sack (not said pejoratively; I mean it in the tailoring sense) cuts for designs that are meant to be V or X shaped–that being that their customers are basically looking for a leather sports coat with Perfecto/aviator/half belt/etc layouts.

So perhaps we need to go full circle and revisit the stalwart and neglected solid leather sports coat. It's going to do its own look better than a hybrid.
 
Messages
16,803
It's kind of interesting. A number of us have pointed out that we're not quite ready for leather sports coats (because it's such a specific look, sometimes dated in unpleasant ways). I think this is pretty widespread now; some women will wear them, but for men it feels like a 90s throwback. I'm such a one myself, with the exception of ones with explicitly western detailing.

And yet… perhaps this is odd behaviour. @navetsea quite a while ago, nailed it when he theorized why some Japanese brands have sack (not said pejoratively; I mean it in the tailoring sense) cuts for designs that are meant to be V or X shaped–that being that their customers are basically looking for a leather sports coat with Perfecto/aviator/half belt/etc layouts.

So perhaps we need to go full circle and revisit the stalwart and neglected solid leather sports coat. It's going to do its own look better than a hybrid.

Nave's always right and ahead of the game.

This is something I've been thinking about recently; While re-watching Easy Rider, it struck me just how much Wyatt's jacket looks like a leather blazer, in all ways that matter sans of course the obvious (zipper, mandarin collar, etc.).

Consequently, it helped me understand why trying to emulate the look is more difficult than it would appear...

But anyhow... There are so many lousy leather blazers out there and the almost magical way they can seamlessly morph into a shitty leather coat is incredible since I can't even figure out what exactly happened that completely changed the look of the garment from one thing to another, but I definitely find it a lot riskier to buy than any other style I've tried wearing.
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,943
But anyhow... There are so many lousy leather blazers out there and the almost magical way they can seamlessly morph into a shitty leather coat is incredible since I can't even figure out what exactly happened that completely changed the look of the garment from one thing to another, but I definitely find it a lot riskier to buy than any other style I've tried wearing.

I got the perfect one via Ton’s Classifieds listing but left on a trip right after getting it. Really looking forward to wearing the thing.
 

red devil

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,948
Location
London
It's kind of interesting. A number of us have pointed out that we're not quite ready for leather sports coats (because it's such a specific look, sometimes dated in unpleasant ways). I think this is pretty widespread now; some women will wear them, but for men it feels like a 90s throwback. I'm such a one myself, with the exception of ones with explicitly western detailing.

And yet… perhaps this is odd behaviour. @navetsea quite a while ago, nailed it when he theorized why some Japanese brands have sack (not said pejoratively; I mean it in the tailoring sense) cuts for designs that are meant to be V or X shaped–that being that their customers are basically looking for a leather sports coat with Perfecto/aviator/half belt/etc layouts.

So perhaps we need to go full circle and revisit the stalwart and neglected solid leather sports coat. It's going to do its own look better than a hybrid.

So the leather blazer was a 90's look?

I never understood why the leather blazer seemed to have a stigma. I think they are cool when well fitted like everything. After all the 90s oversized trend was terrible overall
 

Aloysius

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,943
So the leather blazer was a 90's look?

Yeah it was huge in the 90s. I remember people wearing them (not always in the huge 90s oversize either) and you can still see them when rewatching 90s TV.

But my point is it's silly to have a stigma based on that. There are cool things regardless of when they were fashionable.
 

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