Aero's use of oil pull leather

[Fanch]

One of the other guys on this forum (Rocketeer) posed the question "Can someone please describe exactly what 'Oil Pull' is please?" I too think that many of us would like to know exactly what 'Oil Pull' leather is, including advantages/disadvantages, color, difference between medium weight horsehide and FQHH, and I thought that I would open a new thread rather than go off track from the original thread where Rocketeer posed his question.

It is my understanding that 'Oil Pull' HH is tanned in Chicago by the Horween Company and then exported all over the world, including Aero Leathers. I think that Horween is best known for their tanning of horsehide but process other leathers too. I have a pair of Alden shoes made with Color 8 Horween Shell Cordovan leather and matching belt that is one of my favorite combos. However, I have not seen one of Aero's jackets made with Oil Pull HH but hopefully plan to remedy that in the very near future. In any case, it would be neat if Holly and other knowledgeable regulars could educate the rest of us regarding the use of Oil Pull leather, specifically as related to various Aero jackets.

 

[rocketeer]

Thanks Fanch Eagerly awaiting replies.

 

[Corky]

“Oil pull leather” gets its name from the effect...

The two more durable leathers are both cut from the outer most layers of hide. These outer layers are more durable because of the fibers being closer together. This gives the leather the ability to hold up through all stress we put on it.

• Top Grain Leather - Top grain leather is the outermost layer of a hide that is prized for its durability and texture. The outer layer of a hide will usually have natural markings in the leather. To create top-grain leather, the outer layer of the hide is processed or sanded to get rid of the natural markings that occur. When any of these fibers are buffed (sanded) in order to reduce the number of apparent blemishes, leather's natural strength diminishes. A common way you may see these are embossed animal prints. Cheaper than actual exotic leather this may be an alternative for someone not looking to empty their pocket books.
• Full Grain Leather – Full grain leather is made up of the outer layer of a hide. However, unlike top-grain leather, the natural look of the leather is left untouched and the imperfections remain. It is the strongest leather available and can be found on anything from luggage to wallets. This leather is prized for its strength, durability, and appearance. There are five different types of tanning processes that can change the feel and look of full grain leather.

• • Belting Leather – Originally this type of leather was used in factories to drive the pulleys of the machines. Its stiffness made it perfect for this and makes it perfect for briefcases today. Usually not died to keep its natural color this leather darkens after time creating a rich look unique to each piece.
  • Oil Pull Leather – “Oil pull leather” gets its name from the effect when you rub your hand on the surface of the leather pulling the oils and creating the changes in color. The oil returns to the leather after the pressure is released, thus the surface will show two tone effects.
  • Saddle Leather – Sometimes known as crazy horse and is made from applying special waxes to surface of the leather. The effect here is that when rubbed the color will change and does not immediately reverse giving it an antique look.
  • Napa Leather – This leather is typically dyed black and is known for its soft supple feel. Many imitation leathers try and copy this great feel but do not keep the great durability.
  • Exotic Skins – All types of exotic skins fall into this category because you wouldn’t want the alligator leather if you couldn’t tell it was alligator. The same goes for any other animal skin such as ostrich, eel, or even stingray.
• LINK

 

[cloudylemonade]

An "Oil Pull" or pull-up leather is a full aniline leather that is packed with oils and waxes during tanning. When the leather is "pulled" (hence the name), the oils thin causing the colour to become lighter in the areas where it's been stretched. Once the leather is made into a garment some areas are pulled and creased more than others producing a natural variation of colour and producing a natural aged look on the elbows, seams, and other areas where the natural folds of the garment occur.

Despite it's name this leather has a clean dry surface, if it's tanned correctly it should not be greasy or oily to the touch in any way.

 

[Fanch]

An "Oil Pull" or pull-up leather is a full aniline leather that is packed with oils and waxes during tanning. When the leather is "pulled" (hence the name), the oils thin causing the colour to become lighter in the areas where it's been stretched. Once the leather is made into a garment some areas are pulled and creased more than others producing a natural variation of colour and producing a natural aged look on the elbows, seams, and other areas where the natural folds of the garment occur.

Despite it's name this leather has a clean dry surface, if it's tanned correctly it should not be greasy or oily to the touch in any way.

Thanks, Holly. Can you tell us how Aero's oil pull medium weight horse differs from oil pull front quarter in terms of thickness, flexibility, durability, wearability, and water resistance?

 

[smoz]

I have an Aero A-2 42-15142-P in oil pull leather which is about six months old, I also have a Highwayman in Cordovan FQHH which is about eighteen months old, the A-2 feels far more worn in than the Highwayman already. The Oil Pull is much softer and the jacket feels much lighter, though this is in part due to the differences in the designs of the two jackets, my Highwayman has a Harris Tweed lining. I have been wearing the A-2 through most of the summer (though we have had a fairly cool summer in London). The oil pull on my jacket has a marvelous grain to it.

Here is a link to a thread I started when the A-2 arrived, the pictures seem to have disappeared so here are some more, they were taken when the jacket first arrived.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?63095-New-Arrival-Aero-A-2-oil-pull&highlight=

And a couple of pictures of a fat bald bloke wearing it first one when new, second one when it was around six months old (the last one gives the most accurate guide to the real colour of the leather, the other shots make it seem to be a slightly pinkish brown)

 

[Lungomare]

Aero A-2, 1938 contract in Oil Pull Leather after some months of wear.
The jacket is very light, the leather is a little bit thin in some parts ... Detailed pictures will follow later ...



Kind regards,

Johannes

 

[Lungomare]

Aero A-2, 1938 contract in Oil Pull Leather after some months of wear.
The jacket is very light, the leather is a little bit thin in some parts ... Detailed pictures will follow later ...



Kind regards,

Johannes

Here are some more details. Colour is more to the first picture and very near to the jacket shown by smoz (my detailed pictures were taken without flash in artificial light, so the colour isn't correct - jacket is a fine brown with midbrown knits).

Making quality of the jacket is very good, fit is great, and the leather developes fine. For my (!) taste the jacket is a tad too thin - its weight is 1,5 kg (about 3 pounds).














Summarized it is a great jacket, and it is the top quality Aero is known and loved for.


First wear about three months ago and still proud of it:



Kind regards,

Johannes

 

[Fanch]

Lungomare, those are great pictures of what appears to be an oil pull medium weight HH skin. What is the jet a/c in the background?

 

[Lungomare]

Lungomare, those are great pictures of what appears to be an oil pull medium weight HH skin.

Thanks!

What is the jet a/c in the background?

It's one of my collection

O.k., to be honest I don't know - just used the exhibition as a matching background for the pics my niece shot.

Please find more here:

http://www.flyingbulls.com/#/en/Home/

Kind regards,

Johannes

 

[Lungomare]

What is the jet a/c in the background?

Found it:

Wait till site is loaded ...

http://www.flyingbulls.com/#/en/Aircraft/Alpha-Jet/

http://www.flyingbulls.com/#/en/Aircraft/Alpha-Jet/Specifications/

See the jacket the pilot wears - does anyone know the brand?

http://www.youtube.com/theflyingbulls

 

[Fanch]

Lungomare, that was a very interesting presentation. I don't have a clue what brand of jacket that the pilot is wearing.

 

[trapp]

I'd really like to know more about Aero's oil-pull horsehide too. It seems like the only real alternative to the heavier fqhh for warm weather, or when a heavier jacket isn't required or desired (at least if you want really nice aging). Any other experiences or pictures of the oil-pull? At some point, I'm going to be looking for a summer jacket and I keep thinking oil-pull might be the way to go.

 

[Jaguar66]

Here are some pics of my oil pull horsehide A1 from Aero that I bought 6 months ago. It was a used jacket so I don't know how long it had been broken in. It is hard to describe the leather. In some sense it is much like regular horsehide, but it has the tendency to show a grain pattern much sooner than regular horsehide I am told. Also it has been said it can become like suede leather after aging, though I find it hard to see how this happens. I like the look and feel of oil pull horsehide.

 

[trapp]

That's a stunning jacket.

 

[ForestForTheTrees]

It is my understanding that 'Oil Pull' HH is tanned in Chicago by the Horween Company and then exported all over the world, including Aero Leathers.

Yes, Oil Pull = Chromexcel.

You'll find plenty of information directly from the source located here.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Nice texture. They seem to be large patch pockets - custom?

 

[Fanch]

I think that some of us would still be interested in hearing about the various weight(s) of oil pull hides used by Aero and the utility of each related to flexibility, break in period, and relative water resistance. How does oil pull compare to FQHH regarding those factors?

 

[cloudylemonade]

Thanks, Holly. Can you tell us how Aero's oil pull medium weight horse differs from oil pull front quarter in terms of thickness, flexibility, durability, wearability, and water resistance?

The main differences are in weight and stiffness.

Our heavy version is tanned in USA and is much stiffer (when new), heavier and thicker than the medium weight which is tanned in The UK. The heavy Oil Pull has the same break-in characteristics as our regular Chrome Tanned Horsehide, while the UK tanned Oil Pull (medium weight) is more flexible and easier to break in straight out of the box. Although the heavier horse, whether new or old, is always easier to wear if the jacket is warm before putting it on (see "breaking in" section on our site - http://aeroleatherclothing.com/break-in.php).

As to longevity, none of us at Aero have ever seen either leather 'worn out' so the durability of either is probably only relevant when considering an Aero as an heirloom to pass down through the generations rather than a jacket that might wear our during it's first owner's lifetime!

It's the raw material (horsehide) rather than the tanning process that provides the water resistance.

 

[cloudylemonade]

I'd really like to know more about Aero's oil-pull horsehide too. It seems like the only real alternative to the heavier fqhh for warm weather, or when a heavier jacket isn't required or desired (at least if you want really nice aging). Any other experiences or pictures of the oil-pull? At some point, I'm going to be looking for a summer jacket and I keep thinking oil-pull might be the way to go.

I've just posted a reply to an earlier enquiry, the heavy oil pull is pretty similar in weight, behaviour to our chrome tanned horsehide, so if you're looking for something lighter perhaps the medium weight oil pull horse would be a better option for you. If you'd like to see samples to feel the differences in leathers, just contact Amanda and she'll arrange this for you.