Aero Premium Half Belt - Help for sizing

[TheFrenchGuy]

Hello dear FedoraLoundge users,

I'm new to this forum. It seems to be the right place about lifestyle and clothes

These days, I'm close to order my first AeroLeather jacket. I've been in contact with one of their highly professional employees, but it would be great to get a few customers' opinion on its sizing too.

I'm interested in Premium Half Belt in FQHH, with a lightweight lining. Mostly for mid-season daily wear and summer nights, over thin layers of clothes.

The fact is I would like to get a rather V-shaped, slim fit, since this is how my body is made (even if I have a slender body, overall). Here are my measurements:
- Size: 176 cm (5 ft 9.25in) for 70 kg (155 lb)
- Shoulder width: 48 cm (19in)
- Chest: 104 cm (41in), measured right below the armpits when fully expended. I have "thick" rather than "large" chest.
- Waist: 86 cm (34in). This is with extra margin, because it is even narrower when measured right below the ribs (easily 1in lower)
- Hips width, measured where the bottom of the jacket shoud end : 99 cm (39in).

I have been told that the premium HB is slim fit, and I've been advised to choose a standard fit (with length adjustments) rather than going for a fully custom fit. I don't mind, as far as the fit suits me.

I have also been advised a 42" size, which seems larger than any of my jackets. Usually, I am a 40" guy, if not less for a few clothes. I could get extra width on the chest and shoulders over the next years, but let's be honest, I won't gain so much!

What do you think of this sizing choice? I would be glad if any of you, owner of a 40" or 42" similar jacket, would give me his opinion.

Thank you very much in advance!

Best!

 

[wdw]

Hi French Guy and welcome. I have a Premium Work Coat in a 40, having a 39.5 chest, and it's very slim fitting, with only really a shirt and maybe a very thin jumper working underneath. The outside pit-pit measurement is about 22.25". For you, I'd definitely go with the 42".

The Premium range is meant to be slim. If you ever want to layer, you'd be better with a standard fit.

 

[Rudie]

I would ask them about the drop between chest and waist. I have two Aeros, though not the premier range, and needed to have them tapered down from a 40 to a 38 below the armholes to avoid the waist being too wide. If you are going for a very slim fit like I did I would advise against the Chromexcel FQHH. I found it very restricting and not suited for a very slim fit. I suggest you look at goat or maybe the new Vicenza HH.

 

[TheFrenchGuy]

Thanks a lot, wdw and Rudie!

Wdw:
I am definitely closer to a 42" size so.
Could you give me the shoulder width as measured as "C" on the following website? Thanks!
That would be helpful to know if the shoulders seams wouldn't drop too much on my shoulders (even if it is a 40" jacket).
http://www.endclothing.co.uk/size-guide/

Rudie:
This is also my fear, that this standard cut will be too wide open on the bottom of the jacket.

I found this variant of a HB, with no details on how the cut was made from the original premium HB. It seems to be strongly slim-fitted!
http://www.thurston-bros.com/#!aero-dustbowl-half-belt/c1z5s

Any idea of how the Premium HB (as proposed by Aero) will fit? They are supposed to be slimmer than standard HB.

I am also afraid of the stiffness of FQHH, but this fabric is what I expected to get from the beginning. But I will keep this in mind, in order to get something wearable first of all (even if it means a larger jacket at the bottom). These are short jackets, it might help for wearability, especially when sitting down.

Thanks again!

 

[handymike]

Hopefully Rudie will link to his posts about his custom HB. I agree that while the FQHH is beautiful, you may really enjoy the Vicenza Horsehide for your purpose. For your chest measurement, take it with a mid-size breath otherwise you will be ordering a baggier jacket. Pit to pit on a jacket tends to be Chest measurement + 4in. Divided by 2....
So a 40in chest measurement would wear a 22in pit to pit on average.
My chest is 39" and my jacket is a 21.5" pit to pit.

 

[handymike]

Also, Cooperson has a great Premium HB. Hopefully he will chime in. ProteinNerd's slim fit bootlegger may also be a good one for you to look at....

 

[Rudie]

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?63912-Custom-Aero-1930s-Slim-Fit-Halfbelt-in-Russet-Goat-Pictures!!!&highlight=

 

[TheFrenchGuy]

Thanks Handymike, I sent an email to Holly in order to ask for this pit-to-pit measurement, as well as the width between shoulder upper seams.
Thanks for this rule of thumb, I'll apply it once I get the measures from Holly.
My chest was measured at height of nipples, across the bottom of the shoulder blades, keeping the tape horizontally.

The Premium HB armholes are also set higher on the sides, for a neater cut. But it also narrows the margin of error! Maybe this is why wdw's jacket was so slim fitting, despite having a wider pit-to-pit compared to his chest.

 

[wdw]

My 40" WC shoulders are 17.5", 17.75" at a stretch. Like I say, it's meant to be a slim fit.

I have two Stockmans, which are similar to a relaxed fit Work Coat, and in comparison my 38" ones have 23" pit-pit and 18.5" shoulders. If I'd gone for a 42" WC it would probably fit similar to my relatively baggy 38" Stockman, which kind of defeats the purpose of the slim fit Premium range.

 

[ProteinNerd]

Here is a quick comparison shot (best I could do) between a standard 30's Half Belt Fit Jacket and my Premium 30's Half Belt. Keep in mind, in the test jacket photo I'm wearing an extra layer under it as well. The biggest change between the two is in the body, the standard half belt still had quite a bit of extra room in the stomach area.

 

[TheFrenchGuy]

Thanks wdw!
I once tried an Aero jacket in 40", but unfortunately I don't remember what was the model...

Actually, your 40" WC measures don't seem too far away from fitting me:
- My "mide-size breath" chest measurement is around 40" (101-102cm), clothes on. With Handymike's rule of thumb, 22" pit-to-pit should be enough.
- I checked a leather jacket of mine, and I get around 56cm (22") for stretched pit-to-pit.
- On many of my jackets, the "perfect" seam-to-seam shoulder width is around 46cm (18"). I'm 48cm wide, but this is the "full width", including what stays apart from the seams.

If I didn't fear the 42" jacket to be too wide at waist and hips, I would be more confident and would take the 42".
I definitely need to see with Holly if there's a need for a tapered fit, as for Rudie's jacket.

 

[TheFrenchGuy]

Here is a quick comparison shot (best I could do) between a standard 30's Half Belt Fit Jacket and my Premium 30's Half Belt. Keep in mind, in the test jacket photo I'm wearing an extra layer under it as well. The biggest change between the two is in the body, the standard half belt still had quite a bit of extra room in the stomach area.

View attachment 26914

Hi ProteinNerd,
Thanks for the comparison.
I have a question about the sleeves: so the Premium version is supposed to have smaller sleeve holes, with sleeves implanted higher, this is it?


I also got feedback from Aero about the width at the bottom of the jacket. It seems it will need to be tapered, as Rudie advised.

 

[Rudie]

I also got feedback from Aero about the width at the bottom of the jacket. It seems it will need to be tapered, as Rudie advised.

You just saved about 700 quid.

 

[TheFrenchGuy]

You just saved about 700 quid.

Thanks ! Rudie can't fail

I've been offered the ability to order a standard 40" premier HB jacket already in stock, it will help to determine the right cut.

 

[TheFrenchGuy]

Hello!

I've been able to try a standard 40" jacket, here are a few pictures of it, wearing a midweight shirt+pullover below.

- It seems 40" is not so narrow for he upper part of the jacket. It is a little overwhelming though.

- For the lower part, it would need to be tapered by 2 or 2.5" in circumference.

- What do you think of the jacket length (fine to me) and sleeve length (would need -.75" to me)? The cuffs seem a bit large, but I think this won't need to be corrected.

Does it seem to be OK? Thanks for your opinion!

NB: buckles are loose on these pictures. They made the jacket slightly more belted, but did not change the way it falls on the hips.

 

[Rudie]

A back shot would be helpful. It looks a bit large from here. How is the fit in the shoulders? The waist definitely needs some tapering.

 

[Sloan1874]

I agree with Rudie. Have you considered dropping to a 38? The Highwayman jacket's one of those designs that benefits from dropping down. Otherwise, I'd consider a half-belt if you're intent on sticking at a 40.

 

[bretron]

Body length looks perfect but it appears to be a size too big in width (from shoulders to waist hem), plus (like you said) around .5-.75" less in the sleeves.... I'll take it off ya!

 

[Monitor]

That jacket is two sizes too large...

 

[Edward]

The Hgihwayman is a boxt cut that, by design, fits looser than a halfbelt. I wear a 42 in a HWM and a 44 in a standard, pre-war pattern halfbelt from Aero. This seems to be very common. I suppose you could size down a second size for a neater fit in a HWM, though to me that would rather defeat the point of the jacket cut. If you want a neat fit, you're better off starting with a jacket that's designed to be worn neat.