Aero Mariner

[eClairvaux]

Hi

I am thinking of getting an Aero Mariner. I would have loved the goat variant that JanSolo got as a customized Cheyenne, but I was told by Aero the maximum length would be 28" and I would aim for at least 34".

Anyway here is the setup:
Cordovan FQHH
- a throat closure under the upper part of the collar for extra wind
protection like on the AN6552 style.
- a button closure on the cuff like that on the Cossack.
- curved Highwayman yoke instead of a straight one.
- roll-over stitching
- Pocket flaps with hidden studs
- OD green contrast stitching.
(some of these specs stem from JanSolo's reccommendation)

I intend to use it as my overcoat for very cold days, so I am thinking about getting a shearling lining.

Feedback by the Peacoat and Aero experts on this forum is very welcome.

However, I found no images of the Mariner elsewhere than on their website and would like to see one, if anyone here owns one. Thank you in advance.

 

[DJS Press]

Sounds like an awesome coat.

Here's the link to some photos on Aero Leather USA's website:

http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/20698947

 

[JanSolo]

Hi,

that sounds like a cool and very substantial coat you are going to order. Have you thought about dropping the handwarmer pockets? I don't think that they are very comfortable to use with stiff FQHH. They are just located too high in my opinion and it's also difficult to squeeze your hands in if the jacket is fitted with storm cuffs.
A sheepskin lining is a beautiful extra but bear in mind that it will make the jacket REALLY warm. Don't even think about wearing the jacket during mild spring days or sunny October...
What about...
-One vertical inside pocket in the leather facing?
-OD green Gabardine (B10 cloth) for the sleeves? (Smoother than cotton drill but as durable )
-Two piece instead of three piece back (one solid back panel plus yoke)?
-Throat latch with press stud closure instead of buttons?
-Pockets slightly oversized and lined with wool tartan or alpaca?
-(Cordovan can be really redish, almost purple. Are you prepared for that?)

Good luck with your order and please keep us informed.

Edit: Here's a link that shows the Aero "Shawlcollar". This should give you an impression of a 3/4 lenght jacket with a sheepskin lining. Looks beautiful. http://www.kentaurus.de/shawl.html

 

[eClairvaux]

hi Jan,

thanks a lot for your feedback.

I quite like the handwarmer pockets in other jackets, but will try them in a barnstormer one of these days to find out whether they are the right thing for me.

About Cordovan: I would like a darker colour than the regular brown FQHH and that leaves me with cordovan. However, I still haven't yet given up on the goat, which looks just too beautiful too miss. If only they grew bigger goats

All your other suggestions went straight to the list of details! Thanks again!

 

[JanSolo]

Hi,

Aero does have really dark skins which are more of a solid brown compared to the standard brown FQHH you get. But you have to ask (Will) for it. Make sure Will or Mands send you some samples.
Keep the handwarmer pockets if you like them. I never went for them not only because of practical reasons but also because I was never too fond of them. So it's really a matter of personal taste.

Aero used to have really big, heavy, and super thick goatskins but these days the hides tend to be a lot smaller and are closer to "A2 weight leather". I get the impression Aero only uses these hides for making M422as and A2s. I talked to Will about that and he mentioned that he sent a note to their supplier concerning bigger and thicker skins.
For the jacket style you picked I would go with dark brown FQHH anyway because for a cold weather jacket you might also need the water repellent properties of HH. Besides FQHH is THE classic material for that type of jacket.

 

[eClairvaux]

I asked about getting a bigger goat hide. Thanks also for the hint about darker brown FQHH.

 

[Southernwayfare]

The variation in the color of the brown leather can be very dramatic. The photo below is an example sent to me by Aero - the coat on the left is "Vintage Brown" FQHH and the one on the right is "Brown" FQHH. I was under the impression that the "Vintage Brown" was by definition darker than standard "Brown" but according to Amanda this is not true. According to Amanda, the difference in color between the two leathers in the photo below is STRICTLY due to lot-to-lot variation in the "Brown" color.

If it is important to you, I would be very clear and specific about what you want and confirm that the samples you receive will be from the exact lot used. I received samples of the Brown FQHH and the Vintage Brown FQHH before an order. The samples were indistinguishable in terms of the darkness of the color. However, the coat that I received was significantly lighter and more reddish. Below is a sample of brown FQHH that I received and a coat made in brown FQHH.

(The coat in the photo directly above is the same coat as the one on the right in the first photo. This photo was taken in full sunlight.)

Several of the jackets posted on the forum recently seem to be a darker brown, for instance HoosierDaddy's beautiful new Bootlegger - http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=40784

Obviously, Aero has no control of the lot to lot variation and it's part of what makes this leather so wonderful. My only point is that you should be clear and specific about what you want if it is important to you.

 

[eClairvaux]

thank you southernwayware, that is indeed interesting and helpful to know.

 

[bobjones]

Hi,

Aero does have really dark skins which are more of a solid brown compared to the standard brown FQHH you get. But you have to ask (Will) for it. Make sure Will or Mands send you some samples.

Hi Jansolo. I could be mistaken, but aren't the darker browns in hides other than FQHH?

What I mean is that for FQHH you have regular brown (with a rust tint), cordovan (brown with a purplish tint) or vintage FQHH (same tint as "regular").

There are dark browns available as in the seal brown, but that is not a FQHH - though one can always ask Will for the "darkest" brown FQHH he has in his inventory, but it will still be much lighter than the seal.

 

[bobjones]

Several of the jackets posted on the forum recently seem to be a darker brown, for instance HoosierDaddy's beautiful new Bootlegger - http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=40784

Obviously, Aero has no control of the lot to lot variation and it's part of what makes this leather so wonderful. My only point is that you should be clear and specific about what you want if it is important to you.

It might not appear that way, but I think HD's bootlegger is actually the same color, its just he is standing in the shade.

My Stockman appears the same way, much darker when not in direct sunlight. The new Hwyman I had last week (and sent back) was EXACTLY the same shade and tone as the 1 year old Stockman, the only difference was that the leather actually smelled different [huh] . I was more interested in that fact than anything else only because it might mean the tannery is using a different process.

 

[Southernwayfare]

It might not appear that way, but I think HD's bootlegger is actually the same color, its just he is standing in the shade.

My Stockman appears the same way, much darker when not in direct sunlight. The new Hwyman I had last week (and sent back) was EXACTLY the same shade and tone as the 1 year old Stockman, the only difference was that the leather actually smelled different [huh] . I was more interested in that fact than anything else only because it might mean the tannery is using a different process.

It could be that these coats are close to the same color. Issues with lighting and color in photography make judging the Brown color of everyones coats extremely difficult and frustrating. The photo of the side by side coats I posted above was the first clear comparison I've seen. I was very suprised when Amanda told me this was lot to lot variation in the brown dye. The only other direct evidence I have is the swatch versus the coat I received. And again there was definitely a difference. I could be wrong but it seems to me that some of the "Brown" coats I've seen posted look darker than the coat I posted above.

 

[Southernwayfare]

It might not appear that way, but I think HD's bootlegger is actually the same color, its just he is standing in the shade.

My Stockman appears the same way, much darker when not in direct sunlight. The new Hwyman I had last week (and sent back) was EXACTLY the same shade and tone as the 1 year old Stockman, the only difference was that the leather actually smelled different [huh] . I was more interested in that fact than anything else only because it might mean the tannery is using a different process.

Bob, Have you posted photos of your Stockman?

 

[HoosierDaddy]

My new Bootlegger is a rich dark brown with no reddishness to it at all. It does have a lighter brown base. It is Aero's regular FQHH. I agree with Amanda..that batches of FQHH do differ in color. In that same thread..my older FQHH Highwayman was origionally a more antiqued rusty brown that has darkened somewhat with age. The brown FQHH can come in various shades of brown...cordovan also from lighter to darker(sometimes with a purplish hue)...cherry can differ from lighter to a more burnished dark/light finish..and some black seems more heavily or deeply dyed than others. I like all of the differing hide colors that I've seen..except,perhaps,some of the darker(more purplish)cordovans...and lighter(pinkish)cherrys when new. However..with wear and break-in...any of these hides seem to improve upon themselves..gaining much more charactor with use. In my view..that is one of the favorable properties of this unique FQHH. Fourtunately...none of it has a painted on...or muddy lifeless heavily dyed through uniform un-aging completely bullitproof surface as some other companies only offer.
HD

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Also..keep in mind that the "Vintage" FQHH is not refering to color...but a slightly less heavy...softer... grainier FQHH(offered in several colors)..rather than Aero's normal reg FQHH.
HD

 

[Southernwayfare]

Also..keep in mind that the "Vintage" FQHH is not refering to color...but a slightly less heavy...softer... grainier FQHH(offered in several colors)..rather than Aero's normal reg FQHH.
HD

In reading the forum, I've noticed that there is some debate about the true difference between the "Vintage" and the "Non-vintage". I'm certainly interested to hear more. According to Aero, the ONLY difference is that the vintage version is "tumbled" for a longer period of time. I asked twice to double check and was told this twice.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Here's pics of my "vintage" FQHH HalfBelt...

..and my reguler FQHH Highwayman...

...It very well may be that it is all in the tumbling...
...However...my Vintage FQHH doesnt seem "quite" as heavy as my other reg Aero FQHH jackets. It drapes somewhat differently..because it is more of a relaxed hide...and definately grainier. Along with those differences...and probably since it is already grained..it doesn't break-in with the marbly effect that the normal Aero FQHH exhibits. If you look close..I think you may see the difference.
HD

 

[JanSolo]

Hi Jansolo. I could be mistaken, but aren't the darker browns in hides other than FQHH?There are dark browns available as in the seal brown, but that is not a FQHH

Hi Bob,

I was in fact referring to darker shades of FQHH. As some of the posted pictures nicely illustrate the difference between two batches of brown FQHH can be quite dramatic. I have a couple of samples of FQHH that are somewhere between milk and dark chocolate in colour with no reddish tint at all. Those patches are not as dark as Aero's seal spray finish mid weight HH but without doubt not far away from it.


EDIT:

Just found these comparison shots I made on my harddrive. It shows Aero's veg tanned goat (not the current lot) against standard FQHH. Note the thickness of the goatskin?

The upper sample is goat. It's thicker and as heavy as FQHH. Note how the veg tanning leaves the leather drier than the waxy FQHH

 

[Southernwayfare]

Bob, I think I see what you're saying. The leather on your Brown FQHH Highwayman appears to have a deeper "marble". Thanks for the helpful photos.

Jan, Nice photos and very helpful comparison of the goat and FQHH. The goat hide looks TOUGH!

Very informative thread.

 

[eClairvaux]

I would like to say, that I have made up my mind, but I guess it is only another iteration in the process.

However, on top of the alterations stated (and thankfully suggested by some of you) above, I have decided to drop the whole pocket configuration and try to turn the Mariner into a cleaner Pea Coat setup with two angled side pockets.

I am know waiting for leather samples and will have to toy with measurements of other jackets to find the perfect mix of width (I could easily fill a 44 if I breath in) and length (still can't get that seal goat out of my head).

I'll keep you posted (if you care).

PS: HD and JanSolo: thanks again for the details, I really appreciate it!