Aero Highwayman or 1930s Halfbelt?

[tweedydon]

I'm getting close to ordering a jacket from Aero (just a few months away!), but I'm not sure if I'd prefer a Highwayman or a 1930's Halfbelt. My suspicion is the Halfbelt would be better for me (I'm 6'3, with a 36 inseam, so shorter jackets make me look even odder than normal!) and so I'm leaning that way... But pictures or others in their jackets and thoughts would be very welcome!

Incidentally, does anyone know if Thurston would be willing to ship out a Half-Belt and then on its return a Highwayman, if I'd cover the extra costs?

 

[ton312]

I suspect the 30's HB would be far more flattering on your frame. I think that pattern is best suited for those over 6' tall. I also suspect Thurston would happily oblige your request to try both, given you cover the shipping costs. The jackets themselves are priced equally. Good luck!

 

[handymike]

I leant my 30's HB to a guy 6'2" and it looked much better on him than me (5'11"). It was 25.5" long down the back. The key is the front dip or "beak". That way you get the length in front while you can still get into your back pockets. The Highwayman and 50s HB are flat all the way around. So they look a bit cropped/ short from the front IMHO.

 

[kronos77]

I am not sure what someone's height has to do with how good a halfbelt looks except that taller people show off clothing better or maybe just look better. i am 5'6" and I don't have any problem with the fit of my 30's half belt relative to any other styles. Now torso to leg proportion might be important but only to how long the jacket is.

I think what does matter is your chest to waist ratio. If your gut is bigger than your chest, go Highwayman.

 

[tweedydon]

I am not sure what someone's height has to do with how good a halfbelt looks except that taller people show off clothing better or maybe just look better. i am 5'6" and I don't have any problem with the fit of my 30's half belt relative to any other styles. Now torso to leg proportion might be important but only to how long the jacket is.

I think what does matter is your chest to waist ratio. If your gut is bigger than your chest, go Highwayman.

Thanks for this comment! I should have clarified; at 6'3' with 36 inseam for trousers I have a legs that are disproporionately long for my (normal sized) torso!

 

[El Marro]

I wonder if another pattern may not be better suited to your build. Something like the long half belt or the Hercules which drop below the belt line might look more balanced.
One thing I know for sure, this is one of those times when the Thurston fit jacket is absolutely the right way to go!

 

[kronos77]

You can always add length, up to 2 inches I think, to an Aero jacket, if you think you need it. Yes, a fit jacket would be a good idea.

I have a proportionally short torso as well and my half belt is just long enough. Barely, but it looks great. If it were proper vintage short I would be a stump on two legs.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I'm 6ft 2 with a 36 inseam so a similar size. I find a half belt with a 26-27 inch back is fine. The front drops so it looks ok. Failing that get a 1950's halfbelt as it has less of a front drop and is less trim.

If I did another jacket I'd get a 3/4 length Herc without the flap pockets.

 

[nick123]

I've owned both. Will always love the Highwayman but not so much on me. Half Belt (42, could have gone down to 40, 26ish back length) seemed a lot easier to work with (though it was lighter leather than the hwm). There is truth in different models being suited to various builds. Tall, slim, 155-160lbs, 32 waist. My problem with the HWM (38, 26ish length) was while it looked great from the front and back, from the side it jetted out and at the time I thought side adjustment straps were sacrilege. I'm not convinced going down to a 36 in HWM will yield a positive result. Love that design though!

 

[Edward]

I have owned both. I wear a 44 in the pre-war halfbelt models, and a 42 in the Highwayman. The latter is definitely boxier. I tend to find the halfbelts seem somewhat more adaptable, in that I'll wear a hb with a collar and tie or denims, whereas the HWM very definitely looks better with workwear and casual, to my eye - but that's subjective. Try both - you may or may not like the HWM. I didn't expect to, but I ended up with one and love it. It's a great go-to. If you find you don't like the boxier cut, don't be tempted to keep downsizing until it fits snugly: the HWM is cut to be a boxy jacket; one that's small enough to look snug won't look like a slim jacket, but a boxy jacket that's too small.

I believe Thurston have sent out more than one jacket to folks in the past.

Another thing to bear in mind when you're looking at lengths: I believe Thurston add 1" in length to all Aeros they order in as standard, so make sure to take that into account. Don't over-add to a jacket's length, as there comes a point at which it kills the look of the thing by making it look disproportionate and off (if you've seen the currently fashionable, at least here in the UK, Perfecto-types that are around 28"-29" long, you'll know what I mean). If you're looking at adding much more than an inch or two, I'd go looking for a jacket that is cut a longer style to begin with.

 

[Stringmaster]

I think it depends on your build as well. If you are tall and thin the HWM may not be the best choice--if you are a bigger build it may work. If you are thin one of the Premier fit models might be a good choice--

 

[tweedydon]

THanks everyone--the half-belt it is!

 

[AeroFan_07]

Tweedydon - Good to see you stepping into the Aero area! I'm similar size and proportions, being 6'1" and 36" waist, 24" length jeans. I've owned both, but I still own the '30's HB. I reccommend it for your size too. You'll love it regardless...

 

[dan_t]

The only piece that I can add to the conversation is to consider the 'dip' on the front of the '30s HB.
I had one once & loved the jacket. But the longer front actually annoyed me to no end when I was sitting down.
The back length was perfect, but the additional leather length at the front was always bunching up around my waist when seated and the only way I could comfortably end up sitting was with the jacket undone.
Otherwise, I think it's one of Aero's best looking & most versatile jackets.....

Here it is when it was new (to me) and not yet broken in;
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/aero-1930s-slim-fit-half-belt-seal-goat.80568/

 

[handymike]

If you order the back-length to just conceal your back belt loop on a pair of jeans- you should be good. You could also ask that the front zip end 1-1 1/2" above the bottom hem. It will still cover the belt buckle, but give a little "splay" if you need it zipped while sitting.

 

[cuchulain]

Half-belt no doubt, just a better looking jacket imo.

 

[Monitor]

Same as Nick. I've had both and yeah, HB. With HWM I've had tons of doubt, so much that it was causing me more grief than joy and I had to get rid of it. Even though it was really nice. HB I put on and bam, perfection. I sold it only because I didn't have the money ATM - not enough to justify keeping it but otherwise, I just don't see how it could've been improved on. It's a tremendously gorgeous jacket. You'll see.

 

[bluesforchallah]

... But pictures or others in their jackets and thoughts would be very welcome!

I'm in a '30s HB. I took possession of the Thurston Bros fit jacket and decided to keep it.

I'm 6'1" with a 32" inseam.

Here's an older pic of the back length:

 

[cuchulain]

@bluesforchallah - that's a sharp fit, I'm shorter so I'll never get a look quite that good but here is mine on a 5'10 175 lb frame. I've worn this jacket basically daily since October when jacket weather started (anything over 65 is too hot for a jacket IMO). I thought I would've hung it up by now, but with a scarf, gloves and hat, it's more than adequate in mid-20's and up weather. At least to and from work and running around town, I probably wouldn't wear it to a Jets game in January though. I was surprised at how warm the hide kept me, I thought it was really a Fall and Spring jacket.

The first few are from when it was spanking new, it's breaking in so nice.

Here are some pics of it now and the grain developing, it was in the 20's here and I queued in line for 30 minutes and I was fine:

 

[bluesforchallah]

@bluesforchallah - that's a sharp fit, I'm shorter so I'll never get a look quite that good but here is mine on a 5'10 175 lb frame.

Nothing wrong at all with your fit. Looks spot on to me.

@bluesforchallahI was surprised at how warm the hide kept me, I thought it was really a Fall and Spring jacket.

Agreed. I've been wearing mine pretty much exclusively since about the middle of September. It was still a little warm at times, but I didn't get as much time breaking it in as I wanted before hanging it up for Spring/Summer, so I was thrilled to slip back into it come September.

On those really cold winter days/evenings (here in the PNW, it doesn't get bitter cold like it does in the mid-west and Northeast), I'll wear a thin sweater and a thin down vest under the HB and combined with gloves and scarf, it's really quite cozy.

 

[OceanBreeze]

I am not sure what someone's height has to do with how good a halfbelt looks except that taller people show off clothing better or maybe just look better. i am 5'6" and I don't have any problem with the fit of my 30's half belt relative to any other styles. Now torso to leg proportion might be important but only to how long the jacket is.

I think what does matter is your chest to waist ratio. If your gut is bigger than your chest, go Highwayman.

It's nice to be tall isn't it! at 5' 10" my Mulligan is about as short as I would want a jacket to be, so not sure how very tall people would look unless they are skinnier.