Adding some 1930's to a modern MTM suit - Help requested.

[TallErik]

Hi gents.
I've returned to the Fedora Lounge after a few years absence. Nice to see so many familiar "faces" here, and to know that the forum is doing so well.

I do return today to ask for advice. I am having a local MTM tailor (Spiro's on Danforth) make a new suit for me, but I would like to give it a little 1930's style. Being MTM, I can't quite do anything I want, but I do have some options.

I was thinking of a single breasted, peak lapel in blue with a pinstripe. Other than that, I am open! I'm a big guy (6'4 and about 240 lbs), so a little thickness in the waist (That is being slowly diminished) limits my options a bit. Seeing as how I will be wearing this suit to see clients, I can't go too dar and make it look too costumey. However, I don't mind being noticed, and I would like something with a bit more style than the overly slim, Mad Men rip-offs that most seem to be wearing. I want to exude style, not fashion.

Anyhow, I would appreciate any help!

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

The trousers should be high waisted and have wide legs. The should hang straight with very little flare so they don't look 70s.

I like the peak lapel choice. To get it right you should print out some pictures and give them to the tailor. Look in the "sticky" for catalog scans.
What other details? I would go with no vents even if single and double vents existed. For peak lapels no vent would be most likely.
How many buttons do you want? My idea would be 3 buttons but rolled to the middle button. No flat pressed lapels. A soft roll is much better.

PS: I am sure there is more to it but I find it hard to put into words (for the tailor) so your best bet would be to provide some pictures.

 

[Nick D]

If you get a waistcoat, make sure it has 4 pockets. Put cuffs and pleats on the trousers. Ask if you can get trouser legs that are ~10" wide laid flat (~20" circ.) at the bottom.

 

[TallErik]

The trousers should be high waisted and have wide legs. The should hang straight with very little flare so they don't look 70s.

I like the peak lapel choice. To get it right you should print out some pictures and give them to the tailor. Look in the "sticky" for catalog scans.
What other details? I would go with no vents even if single and double vents existed. For peak lapels no vent would be most likely.
How many buttons do you want? My idea would be 3 buttons but rolled to the middle button. No flat pressed lapels. A soft roll is much better.

PS: I am sure there is more to it but I find it hard to put into words (for the tailor) so your best bet would be to provide some pictures.

Thanks!
Lots of great tips.
I like your idea of the 3 button/rolled, but I'm afraid I'd have to be very picky with cleaning to keep that right.

I'll definitely look for some pics and revisit when I find some nice options.

 

[TallErik]

If you get a waistcoat, make sure it has 4 pockets. Put cuffs and pleats on the trousers. Ask if you can get trouser legs that are ~10" wide laid flat (~20" circ.) at the bottom.

Don't know if I'll do a waistcoat or not. I'm pretty warn bodied, so the extra layer is not totally welcome. It sure does look sharp tho!

Good tip on the pants!

 

[TallErik]

Plus, I need something to wear these with:

 

[Guttersnipe]

Thanks!
Lots of great tips.
I like your idea of the 3 button/rolled, but I'm afraid I'd have to be very picky with cleaning to keep that right.

I'll definitely look for some pics and revisit when I find some nice options.

Cleaners have occasionally pressed my three-roll-two jackets into a regular three-button configurations. It's pretty easy to get the correct roll again by pressing the lapels flat, first from the back and then from the front, using a damp pressing cloth to generate steam and protect the fabric from scorching. Once you do this, the lapels will naturally reform to a three-roll-two configuration.

I also use the same trick re-roll my lapels whenever a hotel dry cleaner flat presses my lapels, which happens often when I travel for work . . .

 

[Tomasso]

I would have forward pleats on the trousers, no matter the era.

 

[Chasseur]

I would have forward pleats on the trousers, no matter the era.

Excellent call!

 

[Two Types]

This is all good advice.

I would also mention the weight of the fabric. Check what weights are offered in the cloth choices and go for the upper end of the spectrum. I would say that as an absolute minimum you would want 13 or 14 ounces, although ideally I would go for something higher.

What colour are you planning?

It will be important to remember that, if the features aren't right, you run the risk of the suit looking like it's from the 1970s. In particular, the rise on the trouser and the amount of room on the seat and thighs will be important.

As the others have said, make sure you have lots of photos with you.

Good luck and make sure you post photos of the results.

 

[TallErik]

I would have forward pleats on the trousers, no matter the era.

Thank you! I'll add that to the list.

 

[TallErik]

This is all good advice.

I would also mention the weight of the fabric. Check what weights are offered in the cloth choices and go for the upper end of the spectrum. I would say that as an absolute minimum you would want 13 or 14 ounces, although ideally I would go for something higher.

What colour are you planning?

It will be important to remember that, if the features aren't right, you run the risk of the suit looking like it's from the 1970s. In particular, the rise on the trouser and the amount of room on the seat and thighs will be important.

As the others have said, make sure you have lots of photos with you.

Good luck and make sure you post photos of the results.

I haven't gone through the weights in too much detail, but they were showing me 120's and 140's, which I passed on. There was a very handsome navy blue Scabal in a nice feeling super 100. I still get to play some more, however, when I return.

Navy blue with a stripe. I'm between sizes right now. I've dropped about 80 lbs, but still have 40 more to go. However, I do need to look decent at the in between stage also. So I need something that I can wear widely.

Your comments on not looking like something out of the 70's has addressed one of my fears. A lot of the pictures I saw showed lovely, dramatically wide lapels, that I think would just not be appreciated for what they are. Same with pants. I'd hate to end up with something reminiscent of bell bottoms!

I'll keep looking at things I like. Please keep the great info coming!

 

[Tomasso]

Navy blue with a stripe.......something that I can wear widely.

I would go with a solid navy as you will then be able to wear the jacket as a blazer.

 

[TallErik]

I would go with a solid navy as you will then be able to wear the jacket as a blazer.

Good thought, but I am already working on a blazer also!

 

[Nick D]

Your comments on not looking like something out of the 70's has addressed one of my fears. A lot of the pictures I saw showed lovely, dramatically wide lapels, that I think would just not be appreciated for what they are. Same with pants. I'd hate to end up with something reminiscent of bell bottoms!

The thing with the 70s was there was no subtlety about it. The lapels should be wide, but not hitting the sleeve seam wide. And there should not be too much belly or curve to the edge of the lapel. There is some curve in '30s suits, but not like the 70s. This is a place where the photos will really help, if your tailor doesn't know how a 30s lapel was shaped.

As for the bell-bottoms, it won't happen unless they really do flare. The legs should be wide, not just the cuff! This will help them drape nicely.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Maybe it helps to write down some thing along with the pictures. With the pants you have to tell the tailor that they should hang real straight and have much room in the knees and thighs. Bell bottoms fit slim in the thighs. If he still makes bell bottoms you can shove a grapefruit into his face, James Cagney style.


Here sare some lapels from 1931

 

[Tomasso]

Good thought, but I am already working on a blazer also!

Two blue jackets would be borderline redundant for a stopgap wardrobe. For the sake of versatility you might consider ordering two suits: One solid blue and one solid grey. By pairing the grey trousers with the blue jacket you'll have a third outfit. This would be my recommendation for a starting wardrobe, particularly one that is of a temporary nature.

 

[TallErik]

Two blue jackets would be borderline redundant for a stopgap wardrobe. For the sake of versatility you might consider ordering two suits: One solid blue and one solid grey. By pairing the grey trousers with the blue jacket you'll have a third outfit. This would be my recommendation for a starting wardrobe, particularly one that is of a temporary nature.

Grey and black slacks I already have. I found an insanely good deal on a blue blazer.

 

[TallErik]

I would have forward pleats on the trousers, no matter the era.

Great tip! With my extra pounds right now, I think the forward pleats, with a higher rise, will give me a nice, long vertical line. I'm thinking cuffs at the bottom to draw it all together!

Time to go talk to the tailor today. I doubt I will end up with a true 30's suit, but something with some 30's feel will certainly work well!

 

[TallErik]

The thought right now is:

2 or 3 button peak lapel.
High rise pants, single forward pleat.
Cuffs on pants.

Medium/dark blue (not black looking - definitely blue looking!)

Pinstripe.