A tale of 2 Dubows...GW and BK

[Jeff M]

About 6 months ago I received a new BK Dubow 1755, seal "VIctory Horse" leather, dark purple knits.
Last week I received a new GW Dubow 1755, made with the new seal cowhide John has in, purple knits.
Both jackets were "custom made", same measurements.
Here are some photos.
The GW first;

 

[Jeff M]

The BK;

 

[jon11]

both are excellent jackets

 

[Jeff M]

A photo comparing the knits on my GW "Acme" (red knits), BK Dubow (ordered dark purple knits), and GW Dubow (dark purple knits);



I'd call the BK knits red rather than dark purple.
Also note different weave pattern between the knits GW is using vs BK.

 

[nick123]

Suddenly the door isn't the grainiest thing on the porch.

 

[Jeff M]

Actually I think I' the grainiest thing on the porch. lol

 

[handymike]

Looks like the GW has slimmer sleeves, but how do you feel about the jackets, Jeff. The Victory HH is looking pretty good, but so does the Cowhide.....

 

[zhz]

The sleeves on GW is slimmer than BKs, also, shorter?

Apart from this, how do you compare these two?

 

[Jeff M]

Looks like the GW has slimmer sleeves, but how do you feel about the jackets, Jeff. The Victory HH is looking pretty good, but so does the Cowhide.....

The sleeves on GW is slimmer than BKs, also, shorter?

Apart from this, how do you compare these two?

The GW is spot on. Fit/design is perfect. Really like the leather. Right weight, color, nice grain. The color of the knits/lining, the hardware, wouldn't change a thing.

The BK is bulkier across the torso than I was hoping for, boxier sleeves. Arm length longer than I like....which appears to be related to the torso size as both the GW and the BK sleeves measure the same along the outside of the sleeve from the shoulder to the cuff ends.
It's leather is interesting. The leather would go very well on a non-A2 "reproduction" style jacket like an Aero Highwayman/Bootlegger/etc. It's not what I generally am used to on an A2. It is definitely heavier-which may contribute to the boxier torso fit. It's color has patches of subtle variation that don't really show up well in the photos...would prefer it was less variable. The torso is nicely grained...sleeves very smooth.

I prefer the knits on the GW. Proper "dark purple" color as opposed to what look to be red knits on the BK. (Dark purple were ordered.)
The GW knits almost look to be double woven....slightly different weave pattern at the base.

 

[kojax]

i like the gw a-2 better on you it fits better and looks good to .

 

[Jeff M]

One thing I've learned about A2's over the years is how subtle differences in cut/design/sizing can make huge differences in how they fit/look when worn. Sometimes you just have to wear/see jackets side by side to appreciate the differences.
People get so focused on the leather when it's the maker that is the most important variable.
As the saying goes, it's the indian, not the arrow.

 

[zhz]

According to the measurements you gave on VLJ, the BK one is one size large, I am wondering how this happened. Also, why dont you send it back to BK to fix it?

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Probably because it took almost 2 years to get this replacement for the first one he sent back. Then this one didn't fit right either.
HD

 

[Jeff M]

According to the measurements you gave on VLJ, the BK one is one size large, I am wondering how this happened. Also, why dont you send it back to BK to fix it?

Long story short....approx. 2 years ago I received a BK M422 whose fit/leather I was not satisfied with. BK contacted me and offered to exchange the M422 for an A2. I accepted.
I received the A2 (this one) approx. 16 months later after a fair amount of confusion about when leathers would arrive, other jackets going out in the meantime, etc.
Rather than go through the process again I'll just keep this jacket and see if one of my sons would like it/fit it (both over 6' tall) or shorten the sleeves.
(Edit; BK has emailed me offering to re-do the sleeves. I appreciate the offer, but will just go with how it turned out.)

 

[Jeff M]

Here are some additional close up photos of both jackets. The GW photos can be seen by taking the link to the photos John sent me when he finished the jacket. The BK photos are photos I took copying those of the GW;

http://www.goodwearleather.com/geoff_dubow1755/

Here are comparable photos of the close up shots I took of the BK;

 

[Sloan1874]

Yes, the GW fits you perfectly and the leather looks just the thing,, it has a nice drape. The BK is, dare I say it, reminiscent of the M422A that you had - boxy and oversized. The leather's nice looking, no doubt, but also quite stiff. Perhaps it would look more the part after a bit of wearing in, but if you've got a GW that already looks the part...

 

[Jeff M]

Yes, the GW fits you perfectly and the leather looks just the thing,, it has a nice drape. The BK is, dare I say it, reminiscent of the M422A that you had - boxy and oversized. The leather's nice looking, no doubt, but also quite stiff. Perhaps it would look more the part after a bit of wearing in, but if you've got a GW that already looks the part...

The leather on the BK is actually very nice. Not at all stiff, very nice hand. I believe it is it's weight that makes it look stiff.
For me it really would be killer on some other style jacket.

 

[Sloan1874]

It definitely looks lovely. My buffalo A-2 is heavier than the average one, but time and wear has softened it good and proper.

 

[thor]

I think if the BK was a size smaller it could be a neat jacket on you, although one that would certainly require some serious breaking in to give it a more natural, relaxed and comfortable looking fit and drape. Or you could throw a fleece or lightweight goose down jacket under it and wear it as a "winter A-2" (not ideal, but a good way to break it in and provide a change of pace to your more trim-fitting GW).

 

[handymike]

Jeff, Thanks for your insight. Not everyday we get to see side-by-side comparisons. I like both leathers a lot. I get what you're saying about the BK Victory, and I agree it would look fantastic for a vintage utility jacket. Maybe a button up Duke would be great like that.