A coat for hillwalking

[Creeping Past]

I'm looking for a stylish coat that I can go hillwalking in. It'll need to be warm, windproof and fairly water-resistant, although I only need up to 2 to 3 hours protection to cope with changeable British weather; I'll not be putting my life on the line in the wilderness in this garment.

I've already seen some great posts and pics on on FL, especially on the excellent Adventurer's Gear thread. Now, having researched various styles from the early 20th century to the 1950s that will offer relative freedom of movement and ease of use (wool cruiser, gebirgsjaeger windjacke, cotton ventile smock or jacket, ventile-lined tweed, etc.) my knowledge of clothing history is at its outer limits. And still no coat via the internet or other retailers.

There are a couple of things on the market that come close, including a Purdey shooting jacket that is near, but just misses the mark, and is £650 (about $1300) and the West Winds antarctic smock, which is pleasingly near in tone to a proper Arctic parka but is a little 'technical' and cannot be customised by the maker beyond certain tweaks to the hood and cuffs — not to mention various military repro items that may or may not be waterproof, etc.

Since I can't find a stylish jacket currently on the market offering the three things I need — warmth, windproofing and water-resistance — I'm going to have to get a coat made. So I'm looking for ideas to supplement my initial hunch to have my local tailor run up a version of the Purdey jacket with a bit more style to it.

Has anyone else gone the same route with outerwear? Were the garments successful? Do you still wear them? Do you have any advice on tailoring, cut or fabric?

Edit: Thanks, nobodyspecial. I should have mentioned that this coat will be worn over layers of wool, silk and cotton appropriate to the conditions.

 

[nobodyspecial]

I like the Purdey coat a lot, for $1300 it had better be nice. You may want to consider multiple layers such that your outer shell is wind proof and water resistant and your warm layers come from other garments. This may open up your choices a bit.

 

[MJCR]

This looks ok and Ventile is superb:

http://www.countryinnovation.co.uk/store/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=2

 

[Woodfluter]

Given the criteria you've stated: warmth, wind resistance, waterproofing - and the duration you expect to be out in the elements: only a few hours away from shelter - plus wanting to look like you aren't on an expedition - I know what I'd choose. And I wouldn't have to spend a bundle getting it custom made.

I'd wear a Filson mackinaw cruiser. Mine is in charcoal, but navy blue would look equally good and either avoids the red plaid, "please don't shoot me I'm not a deer" impression.
http://www.filson.com/product/index...2&doVSearch=no&pageBucket=0&parentPage=family

Without any treatment, mine regularly repels rainshowers of moderate duration and intensity. It is very windproof due to the extremely tight, dense weave. The insulation value of their wool is said to exceed Thinsulite of equal thickness, and I believe it (I have 4 vests and a short jacket of the same material also). For backup, I'd also bring a thin nylon/Goretex rainjacket that could be stowed in the capacious back pocket of the cruiser. If really cold, sub-freezing, a pile vest underneath and you're set.

Good luck!
- Bill

 

[Creeping Past]

This looks ok and Ventile is superb:

http://www.countryinnovation.co.uk/store/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=2

Thanks, MJCR. I've looked at Country Innovation stuff. They've a great reputation. But I passed their coats over as too 'country' (Barbour, etc.). Of that style, I was a little keener on a ventile coat made by Malin, which has a more rugged look. Not sure if they're still in business, as the website is dated 2000 and seems rather sparse and I've received no reply from them.

 

[Creeping Past]

I'd wear a Filson mackinaw cruiser.

Thanks, Bill.

I like the old-time, business-like look of the cruiser. Tamarack Outdoors here in the UK sell it for £150. I'd go for green: the "please don't shoot me factor" doesn't really apply in Britain, except on military shooting ranges — and certain unfortunate parts of London! I've heard they're generously sized. I'm wear a 46" jacket — should I buy a 46?

What's your neck of the woods like, temperature-wise? I've been thinking that 26oz wool might be a little heavy to walk in, most of the time, in southern England. Having said that, I often go walking in heavy wool 1909 pattern WW1 British army trousers, so I'll think again. Anyway, I'm moving to Yorkshire soon, so I'll need a little more protection from the weather up on the tops and open moorland.

 

[Tomasso]

This really isn't something that I'd use a tailor for; I'd find something off the peg from Beretta, Barbour, Loro Piana, Holland & Holland and their ilk.

 

[rjbaal]

Also look at Snowsled. They make Ventile similar to West Winds (I think better) and are willing to do custom work. I own 3 of their coats and they are outstanding. The "Osprey" is a technical style outdoor coat. The "Heritage" is a "Country Style" walking coat. I have both and either would be fine as a walking coat

 

[nobodyspecial]

The Filson product is very nice, I would find it to be too hot most of the time, unless the weather is particularly nasty.

 

[Creeping Past]

Also look at Snowsled.

Thanks for that. I like Snowsled's classic smock, but I'm less keen on their coats, for similar reasons I mentioned in relation to the Country Innovation coat (see my previous post in thread).

 

[nobodyspecial]

Snowsled has great products for sale. I could spend countless hours pouring over their web site.

I have one of these, which are great for winter months. http://www.empirecanvasworks.com/arcticanorak.htm However this anorak will not shed the rain you are likely to encounter.

 

[Woodfluter]

Thanks, Bill. ///
I like the old-time, business-like look of the cruiser. I've heard they're generously sized. I'm wear a 46" jacket — should I buy a 46?

What's your neck of the woods like, temperature-wise? I've been thinking that 26oz wool might be a little heavy to walk in, most of the time, in southern England.///
Anyway, I'm moving to Yorkshire soon, so I'll need a little more protection from the weather up on the tops and open moorland.

Hi C.P. -
OK, now I have a clearer picture. I was somehow assuming, for no good reason at all, that we were talking N. England (Yorkshire) or Scotland, places I've visited more often, and cooler months (because you seemed to want some insulation). Sorry!

Here in Atlanta, Georgia we've had freeze warnings several nights this April. So it varies a lot, much more than it would in S. England. But I am kind of surprised that someone from Minnesota would think 26 oz wool was too warm most of the time! Having worked outdoors there in the winter, I do know you get acclimatized.

Re sizing for Filson, I think they're a little on the generous side but not excessively. I ordered a 40 which is my usual, and it fit fine except for the sleeves being slightly long. Having done this kind of thing before, I wet just the sleeves with a spray bottle and put the coat into a dryer. I kept taking it out periodically and checking length, and stopped when it was right. Now it is perfect.

For warmer weather, if I needed a coat at all, and I wanted to look sharp whilst rambling, I would wear my green/tan/blue cheviot cloth half-belt sports jacket. But ideally, I'd look for something made of the same, very hard-woven material in a Norfolk jacket style, buttoning high and with the useful belt that adds warmth when needed. But then, I'm partial to that old time look. I'd spray it with the new, better ScotchGuard and maybe carry a compact rain jacket to go over that.

- Bill

 

[Tomasso]

Snowsled has great products for sale.

Then you'll probably like Canada Goose; you won't find a better parka.

 

[Creeping Past]

sizing for Filson

Thanks for that tip.

I'm partial to that old time look.

I'm thinking along those lines. Might supplement with a poncho, though (repro or original canvas/rubberised), just to see if I can keep it all-old.

Thanks again.

 

[Woodfluter]

Thanks for that tip.



I'm thinking along those lines. Might supplement with a poncho, though (repro or original canvas/rubberised), just to see if I can keep it all-old.
Thanks again.

Ah, yes, I see. Well, I'm not a big poncho fan. Used to use them a long time ago, but found them too voluminous, they catch on things, blow around too much with the wind, take up too much space when stored. Their value as an emergency shelter if fitted with grommets is marginal - too small. Now maybe a rubberised canvas one, and of a somewhat smaller size, might be OK.

I'm not sure what would work as vintage raingear. I have lots of rain stuff mostly more recent in materials, Goretex or vinylized nylon, but my Barbour jacket is very good also. I use that a lot. Not compact when stored. If willing to depart from period gear, there are very light ripstop nylon/Goretex jackets that take up very little space. I wonder if there are old-style rubberized capes with arm straps underneath. That might work too.

All the best!
- Bill

 

[Creeping Past]

rubberized

I'm carrying a rubberized poncho for the time being, until I can afford to get something special made. It's heavy but fits nicely in the bottom of my canvas rucksack. I like the fact that it's a simple square of fabric, and that it cost £10!

 

[Bourbon Guy]

What I have worn for years is a Barbour Classic Beaufort jacket with the zip-in lining:

http://www.orvis.com/store/product_...d=885&group_id=920&cat_id=5355&subcat_id=6373

under which I wear a THIN zippered down vest:

and under that I wear a zip-up all wool sweater:

http://www.orvis.com/store/product_...885&group_id=903&cat_id=11205&subcat_id=11206

and under that whatever street shirt I happen to be wearing.

I have worn this combination all day fly fishing in backwoods Maine in freezing rain and snow, around town at home in the winter as long as the temperature is above 0 degrees F, as well as camping, hiking and hunting in all kinds of weather. What I like most about it is that it is layered, so if the sun comes out, the vest, maybe even the sweater, come off and go in the daypack. Never leaked; never let me down. Every 2 or 3 years I rewax any spots that need it.

 

[Creeping Past]

What I like most about it is that it is layered

I found the Barbour jacket I once owned to be too hot to wear while moving around in most English weather. But I'm with you on layering. I prefer to put layers on if needed.

I can see why people like Buffalo Special 6 shirts, Páramo clothing and the like, for sporty, strenuous outdoors activities: they're ultra-light, breathable and waterproof and two layers will likely see you through most conditions encountered in relatively temperate zones.

But since I don't feel the need to hurry up mountains and set personal records, etc., I'm happy to pull a Shetland sweater on if cold, throw a poncho over myself in the rain or remove a layer or two, right down to a silk/wool henley if too hot. The real 'performance gear'...

 

[number6]

Jacket

Hilltrek might be worth a look, they do several styles.

 

[Fletch]

It'll need to be warm, windproof and fairly water-resistant

Is leather totally out, then?