5* Leather - Vintage Jacket Repair Services....Hmmmmmmmm

[Claybertrand]

Having become preoccupied with dreaming up a potential custom jacket to order from Five Star, I neglected to notice that they also offer repair services for old/vintage jackets.

I would assume that their rates are very reasonable such that if shipping isn't a killer, this could be a great way to get some repairs done.

What would be really interesting though would be to send a jacket in for repair that also fits really well (I have a few of these) and have Five Star reproduce the same jacket (with some creative style/hide mods of course ).

Again--assuming the shipping variable doesn't prove fatally high the upside would be:

One, you would (I'm assuming based on their new build costs) get a very good rate on the repair---something that may be too expensive in your local area to consider getting done may be more feasible in Pakistan. Perhaps the jacket's price wouldn't warrant repairs at your local rate but would if the price were lower???

Two, you would get at minimum a decent to good to great quality reproduction of a vintage piece that would likely be very very spot on because they'd actually have the jacket there to measure every part of it. For example, I am thinking of a couple of Re-Lines....... with the jackets unlined, Five Star would have 100% access to the hide panel sizes and the overall construction from the inside and out.

Three (ok really part of Two I guess) No measuring necessary for the new jacket!!! No potential communication issues or need to carry on an email conversation on the minute details you are requesting!!! Paper pattern cut outs could be sent along with the jacket for custom specifics on tweaks to the new jacket etc.

Now the only caveat I can see---and its fairly obvious---One would need to be seeking repairs to a jacket that needs repairs, yet fits well and warrants reproducing in the owner's mind. Oh and one would have to be ok with shipping said jacket to Pakistan. So perhaps overall value of the piece is a significant factor as well.

This sounds like an interesting possibility to me. What do you think Loungers??

Has anyone had anything repaired with Shawn/Five Star????

 

[Seb Lucas]

Hmmm.... it strikes me as somewhat perverse (not to mention resource intensive) that potentially we can have a jacket flown half way around the world, relined and returned to us for less that it would cost to fix it in our own city (if you can even source a service that can do it). No wonder the modern world has troubles.

Apart from that, I am not willing to vouch for anything 5 Star can do yet until we know that their fabrics and hardware can last at least 3-5 years without blowing out, fraying, tearing, popping or otherwise degrading.

I am haunted by a costly lining replacement I had done here some years back using what seemed to be a very robust cotton twill as recommended by a leather craftsman. The material looked great for months then it started to tear up along most of the folds and creases. It shredded itself....

 

[El Marro]

@Seb Lucas,
My thoughts exactly. Nothing against 5 Star, as a matter of fact I have been impressed with everything I’ve seen from them here. Still I would rather support local people whenever possible. Also, when I want a jacket repaired or worked on I want it done by the best person available and as far as I know nobody is claiming that about 5 Star.

 

[Claybertrand]

Ok---very salient points made all around. Without the history of the company, any work or production by them is a relative gamble. There's no way around this fact. So what I am proposing will have to be in spite of this.

In my case, we aren't talking about having them sew the arms back onto a $1500 Buco or shorten sleeves on an Aero etc.

Rather, I have a 50s-60s Horsehide Halfbelt I paid about $125-$150 for as I recall. The fit is in the top 5 I own and the style is iconic for the era (although some custom tweaks could add to it in a repro). The construction is good on the jacket aside from one loose stitch but the liner is totally trashed as are the storm cuffs and pocket liners. Zippers are OK but I also do have a vintage main zipper replacement I'd have thrown on it if I was getting a reline done.

So in my area---this is a $450-plus repair from what I've had quoted and this doesn't count shipping which would be $50 mimimum (roundtrip). For an unknown brand vintage jacket, I don't really feel that having near $600 or more invested is the most prudent expenditure of my jacket funds. Now for the same $600 ballpark, I COULD conceivably have a repaired true vintage jacket---AND at least from what we know so far, a decent custom reproduction nicely mimicking the fit and look of the original but in a different hide with some style changes.

Yes the workmanship is unproven----but its also not proven to be pure garbage either to this point. Clearly the lack of time in business cannot be ignored and has to be strongly considered in this or any scenario with Five Star.

If the lack of history can be overlooked, I think for this to be something to consider, there may need to be unique circumstances like I have.

 

[ton312]

I’m of two minds on this. On the one hand, for repairs/alterations I would absolutely choose Dena at Great Leather or Johnson’s Leather over 5 Star. If I was looking to rebuild the jacket I’d rather have the measurements and specifics sent to Shawn via email with all the necessary photos. I can see the benefits in having him handle the actual jacket, but I’m not sure it’s necessary. I can see why you’d want to send him the jacket as he’d have the pattern right there in his hands, but tbh I just don’t think it’s required.
Another thing to consider, especially for liners, is that the available choices are pretty limited w/ 5 star. You’ll get a far better selection from Dena or JL. This may change as Shawn continues to evolve but as of today it’s pretty slim pickings.

 

[Claybertrand]

I’m of two minds on this. On the one hand, for repairs/alterations I would absolutely choose Dena at Great Leather or Johnson’s Leather over 5 Star. If I was looking to rebuild the jacket I’d rather have the measurements and specifics sent to Shawn via email with all the necessary photos. I can see the benefits in having him handle the actual jacket, but I’m not sure it’s necessary. I can see why you’d want to send him the jacket as he’d have the pattern right there in his hands, but tbh I just don’t think it’s required.
Another thing to consider, especially for liners, is that the available choices are pretty limited w/ 5 star. You’ll get a far better selection from Dena or JL. This may change as Shawn continues to evolve but as of today it’s pretty slim pickings.

One of the potential factors in giving Shawn a shot at repairs is the cost factor. I'm pretty sure one of the shops I was quoted from was JL. Nothing against them or Dena for that matter (I have no experience with her shop but have heard only great things and I did look at her rates online). I actually have 2 JL jackets and they are very nicely built so I would certainly trust their workmanship etc. 100% But honestly, California is a pricey place and everything seems to be more expensive here. Probably starting with the rental cost for shop space ESPECIALLY in San Fran. And people who work in California gotta be able to LIVE in California.

I'm not looking to bankrupt anyone here. It's just cold economics. Our labor costs are higher for everything---but especially for tailoring which seems to be a dying art/trade here in the U.S. particularly leather tailoring. Every jacket I own isn't necessarily worthy of the higher cost repair options. That's sorta the rub here.

This particular jacket is a "wear as is" option at the costs I've been quoted to fix it. Now if Shawn can do it much cheaper, and I'm sending him a jacket and zipper anyway, I could also supply liner material/fabric too. Its also a jacket that---though I don't WANT to ruin or lose, I could afford to and not feel like I lost or ruined a grail item.

This is all assuming the costs pencil out though. Big Assumption. I think it might be worth a shot to at least inquire with Shawn on his repair rates and capabilities.

Ton, you have had several rounds of working with him so you would know best what 5 Star's weaknesses are at this point.

Certainly if I decide to venture down this path, I will post a thread and report back to the Lounge about my experience.

 

[MrProper]

I probably wouldn't do it with an expensive jacket. It would be important to me that the same holes are reused and that a new seam is not made parallel to them by chance. Maybe it will work, but without knowing it for sure, the risk would be too big for me.
Shawn has documented a repair order in the VLJ forum.
http://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/fivestar-leather-a2-jacket.21625/post-252384

 

[MrProper]

http://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/fivestar-leather-a2-jacket.21625/post-252384

 

[Claybertrand]

I probably wouldn't do it with an expensive jacket. It would be important to me that the same holes are reused and that a new seam is not made parallel to them by chance. Maybe it will work, but without knowing it for sure, the risk would be too big for me.
Shawn has documented a repair order in the VLJ forum.
http://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/fivestar-leather-a2-jacket.21625/post-252384

I would not be comfortable sending an expensive or irreplaceable piece to 5 Star.

That said, I am not dismissing this idea out of hand--at least in this particular case. I'm not saying all of their work has been beyond reproach for everyone. But it seems that if they are capable of completing the type of custom detailed jackets that some of the members have been getting made, they should---SHOULD-- be able to replace a zipper and lining without egregiously making new sloppy stitch lines. I have had a few main zippers replaced and even when they can't hit the same stitch holes as the original, as long as they stay perfectly in line with the previous stitch---so long as its not the 5th or 6th or worse main zipper replacement, you can't really tell much at all without very very close inspection. I've had what I thought were original mains replaced where the tailor said, "This isn't the first replacement......"

I don't know about relines though. I don't know if the stitching of new liner would necessarily be visible from the outside of the jacket. I really don't know much about how liners are attached. I suppose I need to look into this further.

Again, the risk for a cheaper jacket may be worth it. Definitely not for a pricey or rare jacket.

 

[Claybertrand]

http://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/fivestar-leather-a2-jacket.21625/post-252384

Awesome!!! I was going to request the link to this thread.

Obviously pics only tell you so much but that looks like a pretty impressive restoration by 5 Star. I wonder what that cost the customer?? Looked to be quite a bit of work to get that leather right. This is the only info I have seen on their repairs.

Thanks for posting this.