1930s SB 3-Button Odd Jacket With Flecks and Patch Pockets Sz. 38

[herringbonekid]

p.s. Rudie if you find an early 30s moth eaten jacket you could buy it - even if it's too small - and have it 'graded' up... as long as it's a stock size and not tailored for someone with odd proportions.

 

[Rudie]

I know, HBK. That's what I intend Luxire to do with this one.

My impression is that the cut isn't that square. I believe on a mannequin it would look more waisted. What do you mean by "3 button"?

I am curious. Small breast pockets indicate late 40s to early 50s?

 

[herringbonekid]

i mean a 30s sports jacket is more likely to be 2 button (but not always of course), and the breast patch pocket is usually bigger like this:

when i worked in Cenci (vintage shop) in London they had a lot of flecky '48-'52 jackets and i spent a lot of time looking at them and trying them on, and owned a few.
i'm happy to be proven wrong, but unless it's dated i'm not sure how that can be done.

it's a good jacket regardless of the date.

 

[herringbonekid]

p.s. if you put the above jacket side by side with yours you should see how yours has a straighter front edge (less cut away), broader shoulders and drapier chest.
'top heavier' and 'squarer' (longer in the body too).

 

[Rudie]

Yes, I certainly like the look of my jacket better than the 2 button you posted.

Thanks or the explanation.

 

[herringbonekid]

Yes, I certainly like the look of my jacket better than the 2 button you posted.

that's the main thing.

i actually wanted to wear the '48-'52 jackets at the time; it took me a long time to realise they didn't work for me.

 

[Rudie]

Why not?

 

[herringbonekid]

for all of the above; too broad shouldered, long and straight. took me a while to accept my roots and realise i was born to wear the English style.
( i was in the grip of an Americana phase back then).

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Ah yes, I forgot about that plan.

I don't expect it to fit. It looked like a good template to send to Luxire and see if they can do it right. Better than to have them work with photos. I guess somebody has to take the plunge. If it works out others can have their pattern resized from the template. Would be good for the big guys.

The date on this one is difficult. It has certain similarities with jackets from around 1939 (the drape, the long lines), but mostly resembles early 50s, as everyone says above. The label is getting towards a 50s style, too.

Give me the 2-button rather than 3 any day of the week.

 

[herringbonekid]

Give me the 2-button rather than 3 any day of the week.

me too.

the late 40s - early 50s style U.S. sports jackets and suits are much more 'masculine' in style since they emphasise the shoulder and chest and de-emphasise the waist.
they tend to be favoured by the rockabilly crowd, and they can also look very 'film noir'.

the early-mid 30s style is more classically elegant, refined, but for some men too 'feminine'.

i don't think it can ever be over emphasised that things such as 'nipped waists' or 'drape chests' are incredibly insignificant things to a normal person and represent very small adjustments in terms of cut.
of course, since we gents have such a small canvas to work with compared to women, those tiny adjustments carry much nuance.

 

[Fastuni]

the late 40s - early 50s style U.S. sports jackets and suits are much more 'masculine' in style since they emphasise the shoulder and chest and de-emphasise the waist.
they tend to be favoured by the rockabilly crowd, and they can also look very 'film noir'.

the early-mid 30s style is more classically elegant, refined, but for some men too 'feminine'.

Which, among other reasons, is why I have come to favor the timeframe of ca. 1936-1946, particularly the European variety (where three button SB's were done right... ).
Well proportioned and a good balance of "old elegance" and "modern masculinity". It carries the charm of both poles without over-commiting to either.

 

[herringbonekid]

Fastuni, by 'European' do you include British or are you talking about a more specifically Germanic way of doing a three button ca. 1936-46 jacket ?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Is there a thread on "drape"? I'd be interested in reading about the cut & canvas alterations necessary to achieve the drape?

I recently got a British middle 30s tweed jacket (Horne Bros) that I suspect is "drape" and has serious slashing going on in the chest canvas, which creates the vertical "ripples" seen on images of "drape" cut jackets.

 

[herringbonekid]

BK, i've just added an image to the tailoring thread as a starting point.

 

[SteveAS]

It will be back up for grabs as soon as Luxire has generated a pattern from it. It is going to take a while, though.

Please keep me in mind.

 

[Fastuni]

Fastuni, by 'European' do you include British or are you talking about a more specifically Germanic way of doing a three button ca. 1936-46 jacket ?

As much as some may resent it (just kidding... ) I include British with "European". Else I'd rather use "Continental".
I view the German/British/French (and influenced) treatment of the three-button SB as much alike. The main difference to the US three-button (particularly of the 1940's onward) is the distance of the buttons to each other. In the US they were (mostly... not always) set too far apart, thus forcing a rather unbecoming "3 roll 2". The jacket of this thread is such an example.

 

[herringbonekid]

Fastuni, for my money a lot of the 3 button European SBs also have too high a top button, leading to a strangely shortened lapel (to my eye).
that's why i prefer 2 buttons.

 

[Rudie]

Funny, I like both. One of my favorite suits is 1942 dated flannel PoW with a 3 roll 2. As I am writing this I am wearing a late 20s or early 30s German 3 button jacket with peak lapels that buttons to the top button. I think it looks awesome! On the contrary, I dislike 2 button suits with a low button stance. I prefer to keep my chest warm.

 

[herringbonekid]

Rudie, i don't like low button stances either, but 2 button doesn't necessarily equate to low.
have you posted your late 20s - early 30s German suit on here ?

 

[Rudie]

I know. If the button stance is high I really love 2 buttons. Low, not so much.

Do you mean my grey British suit? The one I am wearing now is a black stroller jacket made from sort of a soft melton. Definitely no flannel, but soft and kind of fuzzy.