1920's flecked 3 piece suit

[GoldenEraFan]

An early example of what would be known as "atomic fleck".
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-EDWARDI...pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item2327008f08

 

[Guttersnipe]

That suit isn't nearly as old as the listing says. It's from the mid to late 30s, not the teens or 20s. Still, it is an example of a fleck fabric being used earlier than is generally seen.

 

[GoldenEraFan]

That suit isn't nearly as old as the listing says. It's from the mid to late 30s, not the teens or 20s. Still, it is an example of a fleck fabric being used earlier than is generally seen.

Definitely not 1910's, but it has the spec's of a late '20s suit. Early '30s the latest.

 

[Fastuni]

Yes, late-20's at earliest, most likely early 1930's.
The high button stance (considerably above pocket line) would be quite old-fashioned for later years.

 

[GoldenEraFan]

It also seems a little longer than the average early '30s style, at least in comparison to a jacket I have from 1933. Then again, not every suit maker was entirely up to date, or the customer wasn't into following trends.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

1933-35.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Jacket is quite standard length for a 30s jacket, especially one measuring 21" at the chest. The trousers point to the date I noted above. I wouldn't be shocked to find NRA tags in that suit. I would expect an earlier suit to have more pronouncedly backward leaning shoulder seams.

Most certainly not from the 1920s.

 

[Fastuni]

Interesting... I would have thought the distance between lowest button hole and the pocket-line to be indicative of an earlier 30's dating. Would be very keen on more examples of mid-30's jackets with this feature.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I would probably put it to the earlier end of the '33-'35 dating. As always in menswear, jacket style is a very poor indication to actual date. Trousers are much more useful, in my experience.

 

[herringbonekid]

there's been quite a few suits listed as earlier than 30s recently when they aren't. i think it's the 'Boardwalk Empire effect'; seller's are really hoping that their items might be 20s as they'll make a bit more money that way, since the 20s is currently 'in'.

 

[GoldenEraFan]

Jacket is quite standard length for a 30s jacket, especially one measuring 21" at the chest. The trousers point to the date I noted above. I wouldn't be shocked to find NRA tags in that suit. I would expect an earlier suit to have more pronouncedly backward leaning shoulder seams.

Most certainly not from the 1920s.

I'm curious for my own knowledge as to what particular details denote '30s slacks over '20s.

 

[Guttersnipe]

As BK says, jacket style is not always a reliable guide for dating menswear. For example, note the button stance of the brown suit is very similar similar to that of the jacket in question; this catalog if from1937.

Button stance is often more a case of personal preference and aesthetics. I agree that the cut of the trousers is indicative of the early 30s, however, that said, the cut of this suit is quite conservative. These style of trousers (lower rise; flat front) are routinely found on middle-of-the-road American business suits from the late 30s.

All of that said, one detail really gives away the age of this suit:the trousers have of suspender buttons and show no evidicne of any having ever been there. It seems unlikely to me that such would be the case if it was older than the mid 30s.

 

[Guttersnipe]

Edit: the trousers *DON'T* have of suspender buttons and show no evidicne of any having ever been there.

 

[Fastuni]

Good catch on that scan of conservative models. All entirely buttoned through - for this it makes sense to place the 2 button closure higher. Also an example of a 30's American 3x6 DB.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

For me it's the low rise, lack of suspender buttons, and the very narrow belt loops. All of these could be matters of personal taste, of course, but on a RTW suit, not really seen before the early 30s. Coupled to the quite short jacket and the style of the label (this is probably quite inaccurate as a dating tool) I would be relatively confident in a '33-36 date.

 

[GoldenEraFan]

Thanks for all the info gentlemen!

 

[herringbonekid]

Baron are you suggesting that 30s trousers have a lower rise than 20s trousers ? if you are i will have to politely disagree.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I would say that '33-'36 trousers tend to have a relatively lower rise than '30-'33 or '37-'40 which puts my estimate into that time range … We're talking a matter of 1/2 inches, though. I would say that the vast majority of pre-1940s American trousers I've ever seen, in size 36, varied from 10.5-11.5" rise. Guesstimate, obviously, and discounting European trousers from the mix.

(I note that my first reply said '33-'35. I meant '33-'36). This, in my view could not even possibly be a 1920s suit.

 

[Guttersnipe]

Absolutely waistlines trended up and down in a cyclical pattern through the teens, 20s, 30s, and 40s. That said, you cannot ignore the contemporaneous existence of paralel styles. Vintage catalogs often advertise certain cuts as youthful / young mens styles and others conservative / mens styles. One of the features explicitly marketed as a young mens style in the 1930s and 40s is high waistbands. In contrast, middle-of-the-road suits of conservative cut throughout the 30s and 40s often feature a lower rise and, occasionally, are unpleated.