15 Classic Jackets, Sz 38 - 50. London Bespoke; Vintage A&F Cashmere, 3/2 sacks; Harris Tweed, more

[tweedydon]

I have several wonderful jackets to pass along today, including a vintage Abercrombie & Fitch in pure cashmere, a lovely glen plaid London bespoke jacket,

As always, I offer FREE SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING IN THE USA; International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at cost!

Also as always, ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!

Please PM with interest and offers!

1) VINTAGE Abercrombie & Fitch three button sack jacket in PURE CASHMERE

Abercrombie & Fitch is mainly known now for its teenager-oriented fashion, and its rather tacky ad. campaigns. It's also known for claiming that it's been an authentic American company since 1892. And, while the company that was the predecessor of the current A&F was founded then, for the current A&F to claim that it's just as authentically American the original is rather like Edward Hyde claiming to be just as authentically good as Dr. Henry Jeykll.

Founded in 1892, Abercrombie & Fitch started life as a sporting goods store specializing in gear that by its nature had to perform well--or else its owner could end up dead. Abercrombie & Fitch outfitted Charles Lindbergh for his solo flight across the Atlantic (and in the process produced a wonderful A1 jacket!), Teddy Roosevelt for his hunting trips, and Ernest Hemingway with fishing equipment, various items of manly outdoor clothing--and the shotgun that he used to kill himself.

By 1977, the company was in bankruptcy, and in 1978 it was purchased by a Houston-based sporting goods firm that intended to continue its august heritage. Unfortunately, there clearly was a reason for the demise of Abercrombie & Fitch in 1977, and the firm was again sold in 1988, to the The Limited. This fashion-orientated clothing firm that made the once-great clothing company a cash cow of cheap and fashionable teenage clothing.

A good indication of the difference between the current A&F and the original can be seen in the fact that in 1927 the company patented a new form of telescopic sight mounting for rifles, while in 2011 it patented a new type of flower topped perfume bottle.

THIS jacket dates from the era when it was still a leading purveyor of first-class clothing that was built to last. This is cut from extremely soft and luxurious cashmere at a time when cashmere really was a special fabric. (Old-style cashmere is very different from the cheap mall cashmere that's so prevalent today.) Both the hand and drape of this fabric are lovely!

The jacket is cut as a three button sack, with the ever-desirable three patch pockets. The lapels are beautifully narrow, as is proper for a mid-century jacket, and it has two button cuffs. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has a single center vent. It has lovely natural shoulders. It was, of course, Union made in the USA, and carries the classic green-on-black Abercrombie & Fitch label.

This jacket does have two minor flaws, neither of which are very noticeable. First, there is a small snag on the lapel; this can hardly be seen, and would be a very easy repair to make for a competent reweaver. Second, there is some slight mars near the right-hand hem, by the pocket, as shown--again, this can hardly be seen when the jacket is worn. Because of these, the jacket is in Very Good condition, and so is a bargain at just $65, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 30 1/2

 

[tweedydon]

2) Princeton University Store Silk Glen Plaid Jacket

Although there is no fabric content listed this is clearly either all silk, or a silk-wool blend. Cut as a three button jacket with subtle darting this has four button cuffs and a single centre vent. Owing to its high silk content is has a lovely slubby texture which is well suited to the classic bold glen plaid patterning in black, slate grey, and cream, with forest green and golden sunset overchecking. This jacket was Made in the USA, and was originally sold at the Princeton University Store. This is in excellent condition (the interior label will be resewn before shipping) and is a bargain at just $35, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 32








3) GORGEOUS London Bespoke Jacket made by L. G. Wilkinson, of 11, St George Street, London.

THE OLDEST FAMILY-OWNED BESPOKE TAILORS IN LONDON!

Founded in 1919, L.G. Wilkinson has occupied the same premises at 11, St George Street since 1924. It still operates today, as it the oldest family-owned bespoke tailoring business in London. Unlike many London tailors--including some on Savile Row--Wilinson's cuts all of its cloth and makes all of its garments on the premises, in the traditional way, rather than measuring its customers and outsourcing the work to non-British tailoring companies. This does mean that Wilkinson's jackets are more expensive than many of their rivals'--but the fact that they continue to flourish shows that their clients appreciate the value of a truly British tailoring firm, and the continuance with tradition that it represents.

This jacket is a testament to the exceptionally high quality of the tailoring that you can expect from a true London bespoke tailor. Cut from a lovely sort wool cloth in traditional Glen Plaid in black and cream with crimson windowpane overchecking--this wonderful jacket is, of course, both fully canvassed and fully lined. Cut as a traditional British three button jacket with darting it features simply tons of handwork throughout--even the buttonholes are sewn by hand, and are, of course, all fully functional. It has a twin vent, and all of teh buttons are a lovely dark natural horn.

As befits a bespoke garment this has plenty of attention to detail; the pocket flaps are lined with the same wool felting as the collar, for example, rather than with the same material as the lining. This jacket was completed on the 12th January, 1979--but given its utterly classic cut it could have been made last week.

This is a truly beautiful jacket, and is a bargain at just $85, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 26 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30

 

[tweedydon]

5) MADE IN ITALY wool and cashmere jacket.[/B]

Cut from a lovely golden-wheat barleycorn cloth, this jacket is a blend of 80% wool and 20% cashmere. It is half-canvassed and fully lined. It has a three button front with subtle darts, and is unvented, in Flusser approved style. Made in Italy, and in excellent condition.

Just $35, or offer.

Tagged 40S. Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 23 1/2 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/8
Length: 29








6) VINTAGE Autumnal Jacket by Fred. Donnelly, of Trenton--when Trenton was good!

This jacket was originally sold by Fred. Donnelly, of Trenton--back when Trenton was FAR wealthier and WASP than its neighbour, Princeton. F.W. Donnelly was THE exclusive men's haberdashers, and considered itself to cater to a far more sophisticated and worldly clientele that their Princeton rivals, such as Langrock or The English Shop, with their reliance on undergraduates and academics. Donnelly's catered to the political elite of New Jersey--indeed, Frederick Donnelly, the owner of Donnelly's, was mayor of Trenton for 20 years, from 1911 to 1931.

This jacket is a lovely example of the wares purveyed to Trenton's political elite. Dating from the 1960s this is cut as a two button jacket with subtle darts from lovely autumnal cloth with overchecking. This has two button cuffs and a single center vents; it also features lovely narrow lapels. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and was, of course, Union Made in teh USA. It is in excellent condition, and a steal at just $35, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 26 1/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 33 1/2

 

[tweedydon]

7) BEAUTIFUL Heathery-Purple Jacket with Windowpaning & THREE PATCH POCKETS!

This is wonderful! The colouring of this is absolutely beautiful--my pictures really don't do it justice! Cut from wool, this jacket is a wonderfully dark heathery purple with a beautiful windowpane overchecking in rich chestnut and autumn bracken--this is a truly lovely combination of patterning and colouring!

It appears to be half-canvassed and it is fully lined in bemberg. It has three patch pockets, a single centre vent, darting, and a three button front. It has four button kissing cuffs, leather trim under the collar, and it is in absolutely excellent condition. It features pick stitching on the lapels and around the pockets. It is "Imported", just as the catalogues say!

Asking just $39, or offer.

Tagged 46R. Measurements:

Chest: 23 1/4
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 20 1/2
Length: 31








8) CLASSIC HARRIS TWEED!

A lovely, classic Harris Tweed in brokenbone herringbone, this has a base fo slate grey, with vertical striping in burnished chestnut, bracken, and light tan. This is a current two button front model with subtle darting; it features three button cuffs and a single center vent. All of the buttons are the classic leather covered metal shanked football buttons that pair perfectly with Harris Tweed.

This jacket was Union Made in the USA. It has some minor rubbing by the edge of the interior pocket, as shown, and so is in Very Good/Excellent condition.

Asking just $35, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/4
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30

 

[tweedydon]

9) BEAUTIFUL VINTAGE Lighter-weight Shepherd's Check Jacket--Two Button Sack!

This is absolutely lovely--a wonderful vintage 1960s jacket in lighter-weight wool, originally sold by "Cruise Casuals" of Miami, FL (founded in 1962). The cut of this jacket is beautifully 1960s, being a rare two-button sack with a lovely roll to its elegantly narrow lapels. It is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has the shallow twin vent that was becoming popular in the 1960s with the British Invasion of Beatles-inspired style. The colourway and patterning are also wonderful--a classic black and white shepherd's check with a bold berry red overcheck.

This jacket is cut from a lighter-weight wool--it was, after all, designed to be worn casually (when that word meant something different than it does today!) in Florida, or on cruises when the breeze became brick at night. It was Union made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.

Asking just $39, or offer--which really is a bargain for this vintage beauty!

Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 28 3/4








10) LARGE Zegna Jacket--Made in Switzerland

This is lovely! Cut from beautifully soft dove grey wool with overchecking in cream and grey, this is fully canvassed and fully lined. It has lovely pick-stitching on the lapels. Cut as a contemporary two button jacket with darting, this is unvented, in Flusser-approved fashion. It is in absolutely excellent condition. Made in Switzerland.

Asking just $49, or offer.

Tagged 60EU (50US), this measures:

Chest: 23 3/4
Sleeve: 27 3/4 (+ 1 1/2)
Shoulder: 20 1/2
Length: 34 1/4








11) THE PERFECT HARRIS TWEED JACKET!

This is possibly the perfect Harris Tweed jacket!

Cut from a very thick and sturdy Harris Tweed--the sort of lovely thick Scottish tweed that you think of when you think of Harris--this is a classic herringbone in varying shades of greys, ranging from slate grey, dove grey, and slate grey, with blueish tones and mossy greens flecked and heathered throughout..... the soft calm tones and shades of a low November sky over a Scottish peat bog in the Highlands, with warm whisky and a hot fire waiting back at the croft.

The jacket's cut does full justice to the wonderful quality of the cloth. Cut as a classic two button front model with subtle darts--and darting you need on a jacket cut from this type of tweed!--this appears to be fully canvassed and it is fully lined. It also features a twin vent, as you'd expect on a classic British jacket, and single button cuffs--a sure sign of a very traditionally made British jacket indeed. The buttons are, of course, leather-covered and metal shanked.

This jacket was MADE IN BRITAIN, and is in excellent condition!

Asking just $65, or offer--a bargain for the Platonic Form of a tweed jacket!

Tagged 44R. Measurements:

Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 30

 

[tweedydon]

12) Winter Plaid Jacket, designed by Hardy Amies of London.

Originally sold by Briggs of Providence--the upscale clothier for all of Rhode Island--this lovely heavy winter plaid jacket is a medly of slate-blue, browns, and creams. It is a current two button jacket with darting and twin vents. The buttons are all leather-clad metal-shanked football buttons. It features two hacking pockets--true to its British heritage, like the twin vent--and is half-canvassed and half-lined. It has some minor loose stitching in the lining, and so is in Very Good/Excellent condition. It was Union made in the USA.

Asking just $35, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 24 3/4








13) IVY CLASSIC! 3/2 sack flannel blazer with THREE PATCH POCKETS in Forest Green!

This is a true Ivy Classic--a 3/2 sack flannel blazer in dark forest green, with three patch pockets! This is such an iconic jacket that there's little more to be said about it--except that it appears to be half-canvassed, it is half-lined, and it has the ever-desirable three patch pockets, with the lower two being flapped for a slight increase in formality--these pockets also have surrounding lapped seams. It has brass buttons, and two button cuffs, and a single center vent.

This is a lovely vintage piece, and since I'm conservative in rating vintage items it's in Very Good/Excellent condition.

Asking just $45, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 3/8 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 30 5/8

 

[tweedydon]

14) Burberry Camelhair Blazer

A lovely vintage Burberry blazer (it carries the old-style "Burberrys" label) in pure camelhair, this is a contemporary two button model with darts. It is half-canvassed and fully lined in Burberry's signature lining. It has a single center vent, and three button cuffs. It's lovely and soft, as you'd expect from Burberry camelhair! It was Union Made in the USA.

This does have three very minor issues. First, while the cuff buttons are all the original Burberry buttons with the knight logo, the two front buttons were replaced at some point; they match the originals very well, and so this is unlikely to be noticed. Second, there is some very minor pilling by the breast pocket. Finally, there is some minor sag to the cuffs, as shown--again, this is unlikely to be noticed when this is worn.

This is thus in Very Good condition, and so is very competitively priced at just $35, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 22 1/4
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 30








15) BEAUTIFUL Zegna Velvet Blazer. LIKELY UNWORN.

This is in absolutely excellent condition--my pictures don't do it justice at all! All cotton, as you'd expect of a velvet blazer, this is a two-button model with darting. It has four button cuffs, twin vents, and plenty of pick stitching in the lining and on the lapels. It appears to be half-canvassed, and it is fully lined. This jacket also appears to be unworn; all of the exterior pockets are basted shut, and it is in absolutely excellent condition.

Asking just $39, or offer.

Tagged EU52R (US 42R), this measures:

Chest: 20 (remember, Zegna Z is cut slim)
Sleeve: 26 1/8
Shoulder: 18 1/8
Length: 30 1/2

 

[tweedydon]

11, 13, and 14 are sold.

 

[tweedydon]

3 is sold.

 

[ideaguy]

darn it! the wonderful Harris Tweed escaped me...

 

[tweedydon]

darn it! the wonderful Harris Tweed escaped me...

Many more are on their way!

 

[ideaguy]

a large 44R, please