Best way to do the chest is to button the jacket and lie it on a table. Spread the arms out to the sides. Make sure it's totally flat and stretch it out a bit when measuring. Measure across the widest part from armpit to armpit and multiply by 2.
You also should measure across the shoulders...
Size can never be trusted. It's ALL about measurements.
If you intend to sell any of this stuff online you're going to need real measurements that are accurate (you'll be asked for them anyway). No man looking to buy a suit ever asks for "a medium." You need at least some basic measurements...
There are no rules and it varies throughout history but generally, the jacket chest is about 8" wider than the trousers' waist, give or take an inch or two.
Shirts really have no bearing on anything else. "Off the shelf" shirts are made with room to accomodate many different chest sizes...
I agree.
Also, you can see how the gorge is skewed off to the side and does not form a perfect symmetrical "V" shape. The buttons are not where they were designed to be.
Thanks so much for the info! You say your favorite is the 1965... any particular reason? Or is it more about the nostalgia?
Very true! My coat (all six pounds of it) has served me well this winter. It keeps out the chill better than anything I've ever had.
Most tux shops' idea of "vintage" is a 70's powder blue bell-bottom nightmare with a ruffle shirt. You might have better luck at places that rent period-specific costumes.
Better yet, take your measurements and keep your eyes on ebay for true vintage. They always go for great prices and...
I tried a pair of Madison spectators a while ago. They look great in photos, but not so hot in person. The leather is thin and hard... almost feels plastic-like, synthetic. The workmanship also leaves a lot to be desired. In short I felt they were a ripoff even at half price, and returned them...
Looks totally classy with the black bowler, IMO.
I'd probably try a charcoal fedora (dark enough to contrast) and change the shades to smaller lensed wireframes w/ a light tint.
You're not alone. I've been in the market for pretty much the same thing since last August. No luck yet and Spring is creeping up. I'm thinking custom is the way to go.
Would a Hollywood jacket typically be sized larger than a regular sport coat?
In the Hughes and DiCaprio pictures, the drape and hang of the shoulders kind of give that impression.
Traditionally they are a Spring/Summer, fair weather shoe. There are a handful of shoemakers still producing them.
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=677&highlight=spectator
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=4679&highlight=spectator
If it's a really big area, take it to a pro, but don't dry clean it if you can't identify the stain. If it's a small area you might try spot cleaning it.
Oddly enough, I have a brown gabardine jacket that came with some type of dark reddish mark on it. I used a product called "Zout" to spot...
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