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  1. Dirk Wainscotting

    That combination makes for the most conservative and formal black tie outfit?

    Well obviously something not black can't be 'blacker', but you are saying midnight blue looks darker than black and it's impossible because black absorbs more 'colour' and light by its very nature. Already I wrote above that "richer" is merely an aesthetic opinion, not a colour 'fact'.
  2. Dirk Wainscotting

    Sport coat and jeans??

    The sad thing is that all Matt Smith's coats were from China and not even tweed (specialist cloth that it is). 'Chap' followers, or the 'young fogey' movement that preceded it, is stylistically appealing to me, but one of its vocal followers is Michael Gove and that really puts me off.
  3. Dirk Wainscotting

    Grey flannel or twill trousers with morning dress?

    A lighter grey perhaps? I think striped trousers look better and add some interest to what is essentially a black outfit. A lighter grey, with small herringbone would be good, but grey flannels will likely work, because they g with almost anything!
  4. Dirk Wainscotting

    That combination makes for the most conservative and formal black tie outfit?

    It doesn't. On cheap or hard worsteds perhaps, but cheap worsted blues will do the same. Black broadcloth; flannel; the sort of black micro-twill used for morning coats and many baratheas are neither shiny nor reflective. The sort of cloth used for formal attire now reacts much the same whether...
  5. Dirk Wainscotting

    That combination makes for the most conservative and formal black tie outfit?

    Black, on the colour spectrum, absorbs far more light than blue ever will, so it is by definition darker and will always generally look darker. The only aberrations causing it to reflect light under certain conditions are shiny surfaces (silk, or a particularly hard finish on the cloth etc)...
  6. Dirk Wainscotting

    The Thread to Display Your 1940s Suits

    Two beauties! Especially the HS&M. Also like the tie you chose.
  7. Dirk Wainscotting

    Sport coat and jeans??

    I'm not sure there's anything dandy about tweeds. They're just country clothes and the knockabout clothes of yesteryear. You can tell the sartorial degeneration of a society when yesterday's informal wear becomes seen as today's 'dress' wear.
  8. Dirk Wainscotting

    Show us your suits

    Are you sure he wasn't being ironic? In the second photo it's hitting the top of the thumb. I get that you didn't want to push the tailor with too many alterations. $200 is a great deal.
  9. Dirk Wainscotting

    Show us your suits

    With the shorter jackets now being made, placing them lower (in relation to ergonomic use) makes them look too low relative to the hem. You're right though, a centimetre or two lower would have helped. I'm going to be pernickety and say the sleeves look long. Also, what's with the peaks flying...
  10. Dirk Wainscotting

    Looking to Buy My First Suit :)

    Even if they were wider they're still too long.
  11. Dirk Wainscotting

    Show us your suits

    Dentist's waiting room? Or perhaps the barber?
  12. Dirk Wainscotting

    Working man's 'evening wear': Old flannels with braces, cotton flannel shirt, knitted waistcoat...

    Working man's 'evening wear': Old flannels with braces, cotton flannel shirt, knitted waistcoat, tie a bit loosened.
  13. Dirk Wainscotting

    Sport coat and jeans??

    Mine are a Dutch make (or brand rather) Van Gils. I use them fairly roughly, rather than as regular wear. I don't mind smooth-grained shoes, though I like a bit of brogueing or other detailing. Tweed jackets are not out, this poll is only for jacket and jeans, not specifically tweed jackets...
  14. Dirk Wainscotting

    Sport coat and jeans??

    Well, I have a pair like that in black. They go with jeans. It's probably a non-question by now since it seems the people hell-bent on wearing workwear with a tweed jacket (or odd jacket) are just doing it.
  15. Dirk Wainscotting

    Looking to Buy My First Suit :)

    Is that fair? Italian style of the 50s and 60s had some lasting influence on British silhouettes after the late 1950s and a few cutters on Savile Row too. I don't know too much about current Italian fashion (and I avoid anything to do with the Pitti Uomo clown circus), or if the fashion...
  16. Dirk Wainscotting

    Looking to Buy My First Suit :)

    Which route did you go? Tailor or outfitter? If the former, you should have gone for four waistcoat pockets, and had the tailor shot for leaving your trousers too long!
  17. Dirk Wainscotting

    I threw my vintage suit in the washing machine

    A remark or two on pressing vintage (or even not vintage) cloths: If the suit is still lightly damp when pressing (which can help in removing wrinkles) you need to be very careful not to mistakenly stretch or shrink any areas. On the other hand you might need to put some shape back into the...
  18. Dirk Wainscotting

    Death of a Newspaper

    The Telegraph is now equally crass and often very lowbrow. Especially the dross they post online. It's also still favourable to the Tories and they print 'work' from that noisemaking machine Toby Young, which is perhaps the number one reason to avoid it.
  19. Dirk Wainscotting

    Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits

    Have to say I was diverted by the female presence behind you...

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