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Mark Grether Leather

Tom71

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I came across this maker via a random Instagram reel. I wasn’t really in the market for yet another jacket, but I am always looking for new brands, start-up situations, small and smallest makers.

MGL is a two people shop out of southern Germany. Mark and Rebecca are self-taught, and are just at the start of the beginning of exploring the jacket world. I reached out to them late July last year and tentatively enquired about their Cossack style in a natural leather.
After a bit of discussion, we agreed on the details, and the process started with a “starter kit” comprising of leather samples, a measuring tape and a list of requested measurements that would leave Langlitz pale (not true, but it IS an extensive list).
I stalled the proceeding a bit by going on my summer break etc., but by December I had my cotton mock-up.

After two video-calls and dialling in all changes, I finally got the jacket yesterday.

Fit is pretty much perfect. There is some room to layer, and that’s how I wanted it. Also, I am at a 15 year low on weight, so a bit of allowance for an extra pound seems acutely in order too.

Details are spectacular, especially for a start-up. Button-holes, stitching, all clean and oozing quality. I am not a stitch counter at all, but if I were, I’d be equally happy. I did very few detail shots, there are more on the Instagram of MGL.
As a liner, I went with a navy blue cotton twill with two inside pockets.

The hide, the hide, the hide! Tanned just an hours drive from the shop, this is 1,4+mm natural cowhide. Thick, spongy, grainy, with a feel of a moist towel. I mean all that in a positive way! With the open-pored texture, this will evolve quite a bit, and I managed to get a stain on it within the first ten minutes of wear. Now, I am good to go.

Very happy that I went with Mark and Rebecca. They have been super responsive and open from day one. Communications were super easy, and all steps of the process were openly discussed and adhered to. I wanted a “personal” experience, and that’s what I got.
You can order a jacket from a professional, established business like Schott, Vanson, Thedi, RMC. All of them, at varying scales are small businesses.
You can also go to some of the very small outfits that have managed to make a name like Greg Field, John Chapman, Stu Clurman.
But how great is it to discover a micro-orga, just around the corner from where you live and build your own, “local” jacket!

Big recommendation for all of us who want a truly bespoke experience. Shouting out especially to those who are close enough to maybe even drop by in person (perhaps my only regret that I didn’t just drive down for a meet). I wasn’t worried about lead-time, and the whole process took a while, but as of yet, there is no gigantic backlog on orders. Just two great individuals, doing their thing at their pace.

Thanks for reading!
 

Tom71

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Aloysius

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Beautiful, and I say this as someone who has moved away from natural leather in the past few years.

I find these hidden gems much more interesting than the stuff we usually get.
 

Herrvallmo

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Great write-up Tom! and I must say that leather looks amazing(not the biggest neutral leather fan but I do really like the leather on that beaut!).

Please keep us updated on how it ages :D

Cheers!
 

MrProper

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Congratulations. Very cool.
I was also in contact with Mark some time ago and was considering another jacket. Unfortunately, or fortunately, none of the models he offered were on my wish list. But who knows, your jacket, but without the shawl collar... :D
 

Tom71

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Congratulations. Very cool.
I was also in contact with Mark some time ago and was considering another jacket. Unfortunately, or fortunately, none of the models he offered were on my wish list. But who knows, your jacket, but without the shawl collar... :D

I am sure the two are open to discussing modifications. My impression is that they try to dial in the basic pattern for a limited number of models, but I can’t see alterations not affecting pattern being off limits.
 

Tom71

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What price range should you expect for one of their jackets?

You can expect a price reflecting the bespoke experience. I don’t really want to put down a number as I am sure with the mini turnover they have, changes in prices/availability for hides, lining, hardware can have a huge impact.
 
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Tom71

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Beautiful, and I say this as someone who has moved away from natural leather in the past few years.

I find these hidden gems much more interesting than the stuff we usually get.

Thanks! I appreciate that. The colour steers clear of that „pinkish-white“ hue, you so despise.
I would describe the colour as ‚caramel‘, but it sure is going to darken somewhat.
The ‚sunlight pictures‘ reflect the colour quite well.
 

Tom71

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FYI, I spoke with Mark/Rebecca, and they mentioned that they had capacity for "one or two jackets" at the moment. Just saying.
 

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