Wesco Boot Thread.

Goel said:

I did my order through Baker's and I've already emailed them, but one way or another they'll have to move on since they're too big. My heels barely even touch the back, so I would probably need to go down a size.

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Sorry to hear that. Call Baker's directly, they are very good with service. But you may have to wait - a long - while before getting your new pair. Did you do the foot tracings?

Woodtroll said:

That's a shame, for sure. How long was your wait for this pair?

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I got it right at the 2 year mark.

AeroFan_07 said:

Sorry to hear that. Call Baker's directly, they are very good with service. But you may have to wait - a long - while before getting your new pair. Did you do the foot tracings?

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I didn't use tracings, I used my regular last and size for lace ups. I found their standard sizing works really well for my feet as the last has a narrow heel and wider toebox, but before ordering I called them to discuss sizing and they said to stick with my standard size (same as the lace ups). Other maker's recommend sizing a half size down for slip on boots and I'm thinking I would need to do that, assuming they find my leather.

Starting the break in on my new Jobmasters. I had a pair of 7.5s that I tried to break in for a couple of years, but they were just too small. I’m sizing up to an 8 with these.

I’m getting conflicting info about the use of the boot oil during the break in process. The oil bottle says to use it sparingly on any hotspots. I also read that they dip the boots in oil before they leave the factory. This indicates to me that you should use it pretty liberally to help soften the leather at flex points. Anybody have experience that points either way?

I have a pair of the Mister Lous, but had them made in their domain leather and not horse. Which the first 3-4 years made them instantly comfortable be on a bike in, but now have gotten a little...saggy. Anyone have luck bringing a leather like that back to shape a bit especially in the shaft?

Chevalier said:

the use of the boot oil during the break in process

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I put boot oil all over new boots and then just on the flex points later in they are still a bit inflexible. I have a pair of Viberg work boots (not their fashion line) and they took a lot to break in.

soreilly said:

I have a pair of the Mister Lous, but had them made in their domain leather and not horse. Which the first 3-4 years made them instantly comfortable be on a bike in, but now have gotten a little...saggy. Anyone have luck bringing a leather like that back to shape a bit especially in the shaft?

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I have the Wesco 7400 in the same leather in one shaft is saggy as well.

I'm making some assumptions here because I don't own any engineer boots and have never looked into their construction but there are some cowboy boot similarities. When boots are made, towards their completion, before the soles are added, they're worked on inside out and before the boots can be 'turned', they're dampened or even soaked a bit beforehand to make the leather pliable. To straighten the wrinkles in the shaft of the boot, makers insert what are called trees and they are left in while the boot dries. I've included some pics of vintage and modern trees. The Lisa Sorrell vid explains it better than I can.

I've straightened up some vintage boots by using empty plastic water bottles as "trees". Smart Water bottles work well, especially the taller ones. After wetting the shafts I place a bottle in the shaft with the cap sealed tightly. I then squeeze a second bottle into the shaft alongside the other until the leather is stretched over the bottles. The air volume usually has to be adjusted in the second bottle or a smaller bottle is used for fit. The spring loaded trees don't create enough tension to smooth the leather.

Annual cleaning and shine