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What Hat Are You Wearing Today ?

The Lost Cowboy

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,618
Location
Southeast Asia
With your indulgence I would like to pick the brains of the knowledge base.

Ok new custom hat time as Tibor who makes custom hats has sourced midnight blue 20x beaver felt in cowboy weight which means 230 grams.

As the felt can support a wide brim I am looking at a high and wide fedora that is built to be as formal as such a beast can be.

I have Akubra Federation IV but they are more “adventurer” style with non-edged brims, and often used as the bases for the Indian Jones style hats. I have Akubra Stylemasters and Bogarts that are what I call city hats, meaning crossovers in classical casual to business wear but fall slightly short of ultra formal.

I need a high crown of at least 5” formed maybe 4.5” at a pinch. Thinking 5.5”. Been an Aussie we like wide brims and especially handy in Tassie due to the low winter sun angle. Also at 6’3” and axe handle wide a more substantial hat suits my frame.

The concept is at night it reads formal black but in daylight you can see the blue thus not appearing as a “funeral” hat.

And yes I am not afraid to buck convention as I will leave being a “safe corporate drone” look to others.

Any pointers or pictures what works well doing this? Happy to consider other formal styles but think it would be a shame not to use the Western weight felt for a broader brim. As said channel formal as possible.

I use ChatGPT as my “design” tool and it came up with this based on my requirements. It is around 2.75 to 3” brim and 5.5” crown after forming.


AE942130-7BF0-4457-A63E-5DE7A89225E3.png
With your build and hat size, a 3 inch brim would look fine - it would probably look pretty good, actually.

HOWEVER, if you plan to use this hat to go out in the evenings, then you might want to think about what you will do with it when it's not on your head. 2.75 inches is still small enough to fit under a chair at a restaurant or somewhere in a corner, but 3 inches is not. If you're at a concert, 2.75 inches will sit in your lap - 3 inches will not.

I consider 3 inch brims to be for a working hat, and you are getting it in a working weight. As Rob pointed out, really the only reason to do this is if you are actually going to be working a lot outside. Our modern, developed world lifestyles just don't put wear and tear even on dress weight hats, let alone on the heavy weight.

That being said, the temps are cooler in Tassie and the heavier weight might suit you better for that purpose alone.

You might consider getting a dimensional brim. That is actually the kind of brim shape that an Indiana Jones hat has - longer in the front and back and shorter on the sides. You can get a dimensional brim and still have the brim edge bound and that will give it a different feel from an Indy hat. Or you can even do what I did and get a dimensional brim, bind it, AND get a thin ribbon instead of a ribbon and bow (thin ribbon like a Campdraft).

There are tons of options but first I would think practically: what range of activities do you want this hat for. If it's strictly for outdoors, then a bigger brim is worth it. If you're gonna want to wear it in society, then a bigger brim is probably just gonna be a burden.
 
Last edited:

VoodooSan

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,387
Location
Boise, ID
Sunday is here and so are the hats of the week. It was hot for our northern sensibilities so not much variation (I don't have that many straws).

Penumbra View attachment 723782

The English hatter
View attachment 723783 View attachment 723784

Penumbra again
View attachment 723785

The English hatter again
View attachment 723786

And Penumbra again
View attachment 723787

Borsalino Biber
View attachment 723788
A smaller showing perhaps, Stefan, but no less stunning for that. I'm going with the Penumbra in 1st place, the Borsalino in 2nd, and The English Hatter in 3rd. Thanks for another wonderful Sunday!
 

Ent

A-List Customer
Messages
329
With your build and hat size, a 3 inch brim would look fine - it would probably look pretty good, actually.

HOWEVER, if you plan to use this hat to go out in the evenings, then you might want to think about what you will do with it when it's not on your head. 2.75 inches is still small enough to fit under a chair at a restaurant or somewhere in a corner, but 3 inches is not. If you're at a concert, 2.75 inches will sit in your lap - 3 inches will not.

I consider 3 inch brims to be for a working hat, and you are getting it in a working weight. As Rob pointed out, really the only reason to do this is if you are actually going to be working a lot outside. Our modern, developed world lifestyles just don't put wear and tear even on dress weight hats, let alone on the heavy weight.

That being said, the temps are cooler in Tassie and the heavier weight might suit you better for that purpose alone.

You might consider getting a dimensional brim. That is actually the kind of brim shape that an Indiana Jones hat has - longer in the front and back and shorter on the sides. You can get a dimensional brim and still have the brim edge bound and that will give it a different feel from an Indy hat. Or you can even do what I did and get a dimensional brim, bind it, AND get a thin ribbon instead of a ribbon and bow (thin ribbon like a Campdraft).

There are tons of options but first I would think practically: what range of activities do you want this hat for. If it's strictly for outdoors, then a bigger brim is worth it. If you're gonna want to wear it in society, then a bigger brim is probably just gonna be a burden.
Hi @The Lost Cowboy

Great observations and why I respect this forum so much.

Weight is largely governed by getting 100% beaver felt in midnight blue than anything else. But given Tassie’s usual cooler and even island temps (0-25 usual range) thicker felt is not the issue it would be in warmer climates, indeed better suited.

Given a major criterion is formal as possible would narrowing the width to length add or subtract from that aim? 2.75” still should be wide enough to balance the crown height I tend to think.

Mainly wear hats walking to and from work and for some reason work has a hat stand. I wonder why. Maybe because I brought it!

If anyone has an ultra formal fedora they can post?
 

Rollin Rains

A-List Customer
Messages
303
Location
Cypress Bower
With your indulgence I would like to pick the brains of the knowledge base.

Ok new custom hat time as Tibor who makes custom hats has sourced midnight blue 20x beaver felt in cowboy weight which means 230 grams.

As the felt can support a wide brim I am looking at a high and wide fedora that is built to be as formal as such a beast can be.

I have Akubra Federation IV but they are more “adventurer” style with non-edged brims, and often used as the bases for the Indian Jones style hats. I have Akubra Stylemasters and Bogarts that are what I call city hats, meaning crossovers in classical casual to business wear but fall slightly short of ultra formal.

I need a high crown of at least 5” formed maybe 4.5” at a pinch. Thinking 5.5”. Been an Aussie we like wide brims and especially handy in Tassie due to the low winter sun angle. Also at 6’3” and axe handle wide a more substantial hat suits my frame.

The concept is at night it reads formal black but in daylight you can see the blue thus not appearing as a “funeral” hat.

And yes I am not afraid to buck convention as I will leave being a “safe corporate drone” look to others.

Any pointers or pictures what works well doing this? Happy to consider other formal styles but think it would be a shame not to use the Western weight felt for a broader brim. As said channel formal as possible.

I use ChatGPT as my “design” tool and it came up with this based on my requirements. It is around 2.75 to 3” brim and 5.5” crown after forming.


AE942130-7BF0-4457-A63E-5DE7A89225E3.png
Love the hat and the idea! In addition, I have found the midnight Blue hats go well with almost anything. Any shade between black and white , as well as all of the earth-tones. Excellent choice!
 
Messages
13,401

Ent

A-List Customer
Messages
329
Hi hat trust. Following up on @The Lost Cowboy ’s suggestion I decided to go with the 3” forward and back brim narrowing to say 2.75” with deep curl which should narrow it even more as you are correct a Federation IV on a dining table is a difficult thing to park. Felt is now ordered.

Your thoughts please.

Below is a mockup of one without deep curl and one without. The 230gram western weight beaver should be able to support such a setup. Brim probably not full 3” on the front or the 5.5” height making it look shorter. The joys of AI it often does what it pleases

9E6FE015-4A9E-4403-82C6-9862D01E0166.png


Now crown blocking. Thoughts please. Remember aiming for maximum formality but that means to me strong crown with deep defined creases. I am happy to be corrected.

My front runner a low to mid range Panama View attachment IMG_8245.jpeg

View attachment IMG_8247.jpeg

Akubra Bogart style similar but softer

View attachment IMG_8250.jpeg

Panama take on I think what is called a tear drop crown extremely well defined in fino fino grade. Love it but maybe two casual?

View attachment IMG_8248.jpeg

Softer version in Akubra Style master which is similar to my Stetson Stratoliner.

IMG_8251.jpeg


Cheers and thanks in advance. Happy to look at other crown styles.
 

Pellie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,639
Location
Enschede, Netherlands

The Lost Cowboy

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,618
Location
Southeast Asia
Hi hat trust. Following up on @The Lost Cowboy ’s suggestion I decided to go with the 3” forward and back brim narrowing to say 2.75” with deep curl which should narrow it even more as you are correct a Federation IV on a dining table is a difficult thing to park. Felt is now ordered.

Your thoughts please.

Below is a mockup of one without deep curl and one without. The 230gram western weight beaver should be able to support such a setup. Brim probably not full 3” on the front or the 5.5” height making it look shorter. The joys of AI it often does what it pleases

View attachment 724140

Now crown blocking. Thoughts please. Remember aiming for maximum formality but that means to me strong crown with deep defined creases. I am happy to be corrected.

My front runner a low to mid range Panama View attachment 724137

View attachment 724135

Akubra Bogart style similar but softer

View attachment 724141

Panama take on I think what is called a tear drop crown extremely well defined in fino fino grade. Love it but maybe two casual?

View attachment 724146

Softer version in Akubra Style master which is similar to my Stetson Stratoliner.

View attachment 724147

Cheers and thanks in advance. Happy to look at other crown styles.

For me, the classic formal look is less creasing. Think homburgs: they were often worn with just a center crease. Or the most formal: the top hat, no creases.

I recently steamed the side dents out of a western and love it with only a center crease. You might try that, and if you don't like it you can always add side dents or front dents or switch the center crease to a teardrop, etc.
 

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