Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

erwinkn

New in Town
Messages
6
Just received a beautiful wool gabardine half-belt in the mail, likely from the 1940s (according to the seller). I'm not an expert, but it looks similar to some Pendletons I've seen.
It needs a few small repairs to the lining and one hole on the shoulder, but overall in pretty mint condition. Really looking forward to wearing it this spring

View attachment IMG_3395.jpeg
View attachment IMG_3396.jpeg
 

AHP91

One Too Many
Messages
1,175
Why it’s end game? What is so special about this label? I see too vintage collectors go crazy about this label a lot
The particular jacket might not be end game, but if you search “Ralphs Pugh” you will find a thread of this maker. Here’s a couple of quick examples of what they produced.



IMG_1572.jpeg
IMG_1573.jpeg
IMG_1568.jpeg
IMG_1569.jpeg
 

NeutronStar

New in Town
Messages
39
Location
Ca
I sure would like to find this one. From the 1943 Sears catalog. Button front rough out. Don't see this style, may be a reaction to wartime shortages.
Never seen one outside the catalog.
Love the contrasting lapel, lining, half belt

I sure would like to find this one. From the 1943 Sears catalog. Button front rough out. Don't see this style, may be a reaction to wartime shortages.
Never seen one outside the catalog.


View attachment 695055
Wow, the contrasting lapels, plaid lining, half belt…whew…what a beautiful jacket
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,899
Location
Illinois
The style turned to Capeskin in the 1944 catalog. The Capeskin was always a choice in the 30s and 40s. By 1944 in was the only leather available in the Sears catalog. No doubt another reaction to WWII shortages.

Note the use of the term "Cossack" jacket. This was a carry over from the "true" Cossack style which had no side gussets, sewn back to front with a triangle the waist with adjuster. They are typically short. When sides were added c.1934 they continued to refer to jackets as Cossack. The name sort of became an advertising word with little attachment to a certain style.

That is my take on the term. The term faded by the 1950s, too old fashion sounding.

1744083984631.jpeg
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,899
Location
Illinois
There are probably vintage jackets we will never see, gone. I have never seen a jacket like this. Read the description. It is reversible. I have a couple of reversible jackets, neither this old. This image is from the 1930 catalog, despite the use of the zipper none are advertised in the Sears catalog until 1933 and on limited models.

This style of jacket was very popular during this era often referred to as a "blouse".

1744085119863.jpeg
 

photo2u

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,542
Location
claremont california
The style turned to Capeskin in the 1944 catalog. The Capeskin was always a choice in the 30s and 40s. By 1944 in was the only leather available in the Sears catalog. No doubt another reaction to WWII shortages.

Note the use of the term "Cossack" jacket. This was a carry over from the "true" Cossack style which had no side gussets, sewn back to front with a triangle the waist with adjuster. They are typically short. When sides were added c.1934 they continued to refer to jackets as Cossack. The name sort of became an advertising word with little attachment to a certain style.

That is my take on the term. The term faded by the 1950s, too old fashion sounding.

View attachment 695194

The clothing industry is a keen observer of trends and materials ready available. True capeskin probably was extremely difficult to obtain due to the location of the beast, lol. In true reality, thin, soft horse was expensive and in comparison to regular horse such as the horse being produce for the war effort. Many companies, took advantage of war surplus materials such as thread, lining fabrics, hardware along with hides. One clear example were companies who utilized the blue sleeve lining was due to abundance of such fabrics. I was lucky to get a Korean period satin roll from Jauregui, who used it for many of his leather projects and upholstery. Expensive fabrics were also available, like wool used in blankets and uniforms also from the war effort. Later, cotton and synthetics took over when those nice materials were no longer available at a bargain prices. Trojan, Cal leathers and many others used their zippers, thread and fabrics to produce their jackets. That is why many of those companies used the tan color threads for their jackets. Jauregui told me many stories, including how some of the new and very stiff jackets were conditioned, so costumers could have a wearable garment. It is all about the bottom line for a company. My favorite jacket is in Cape skin. The Californian became iconic in the movie Escape from NY. 457657184_828430032738125_2837082574458932178_n.jpeg
escape from ny.jpg
 

jeo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,138
Location
Philadelphia
The style turned to Capeskin in the 1944 catalog. The Capeskin was always a choice in the 30s and 40s. By 1944 in was the only leather available in the Sears catalog. No doubt another reaction to WWII shortages.

Note the use of the term "Cossack" jacket. This was a carry over from the "true" Cossack style which had no side gussets, sewn back to front with a triangle the waist with adjuster. They are typically short. When sides were added c.1934 they continued to refer to jackets as Cossack. The name sort of became an advertising word with little attachment to a certain style.

That is my take on the term. The term faded by the 1950s, too old fashion sounding.

View attachment 695194

There are probably vintage jackets we will never see, gone. I have never seen a jacket like this. Read the description. It is reversible. I have a couple of reversible jackets, neither this old. This image is from the 1930 catalog, despite the use of the zipper none are advertised in the Sears catalog until 1933 and on limited models.

This style of jacket was very popular during this era often referred to as a "blouse".

View attachment 695197

Amazing, thanks for sharing!

Here are some old Cossacks.

Couple of spread collar styles with the knitted waists.

Albert Richard

IMG_6848.jpeg
IMG_6850.jpeg



Hercules

IMG_6914.jpeg
IMG_6916.jpeg



More of your typical Cossack style still with spread collars. Another Albert Richard.

IMG_6851.jpeg
IMG_6852.jpeg



Block Bilt. No triangular adjusters at the waist.

IMG_6886.jpeg
IMG_6887.jpeg
 
Last edited:

jeo

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,138
Location
Philadelphia
More Cossacks with the familiar shawl style collar. Calfskin was also used quite often for this style.

California Sportswear in washable calfskin. No triangle adjuster at the waist.

IMG_6857.jpeg
IMG_6858.jpeg
IMG_6859.jpeg
IMG_6860.jpeg



No name brand here. This one is interesting. Again no triangle adjusters.

IMG_6864.jpeg
IMG_6863.jpeg
IMG_6866.jpeg
IMG_6865.jpeg



Another no name. Note the large triangle adjusters.

IMG_6875.jpeg
IMG_6876.jpeg
 

Forum statistics

Threads
111,086
Messages
3,114,733
Members
55,426
Latest member
otacon_01
Top